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PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General Forum for the Volvo PV, 120 and 1800 cars

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Volvo PV444 wins 1957 Petit Lemans at Lime Rock!

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Old Sep 27th, 2018, 14:36   #71
Army
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I'd rather use tie wraps!
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1981 Mercedes 300D <=> 230 diesel to petrol conversion project
1965 Series 2a Station Wagon mega build
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Old Oct 11th, 2018, 14:18   #72
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Very slow progress returning the interior to use. I ordered 3 point inertia style seat belts and await their arrival.

For soundproofing the floor, I’m using ½” thick Hushmat that I ordered from Summit Racing. But I wonder how well it will hold up over time. It’s made from a spongy material and sometimes that type of material tends to disintegrate. I assume it will compress to about ¼” under the carpets. I also ordered some 1/8” Hushmat material for the footwell kickboards. I’m thinking I might put that material under the fabric rather than under the panel.

The floor carpets themselves are quite cheesy. I assume they came from one of the usual Volvo parts suppliers. The prior owner made some cuts at the edges of the carpets so they could fold where necessary and I have had to cut holes in the toeboard for the gas, brake & clutch pedals and for the headlight dimmer switch. The carpet will unravel at these cuts and I need to hand sew some reinforcement and even then it is not that strong. The same problem exists where the transmission shifter comes through the carpet. I think these will be short lived. Ultimately, I think I can get much more suitable, unraveling carpet from a local carpet supply shop.

I need to deal with the window and door seals. Some seals came with the car, but none of it looks like what’s on the car. For the door frame, I also need what is described as “door aperture trim”, part 99457, but what’s on the car is pretty flimsy stuff, and I’m not sure how I will fit new material under the headliner at the top. I also have some window fuzzies, but my material doesn’t look like it will fit correctly.

My home made seat latch for the passenger side seat came out fairly well. Awaiting reassembly.

I was hoping to get the car back on the road for a ride or two before winter. Not sure I'll be able to make it happen.
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Old Oct 21st, 2018, 00:30   #73
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Progress is tediously slow. I managed to install the Hushmat on the driver’s side front (toe board and floor) today and to lay the driver’s side carpet down – at least temporarily. Because the carpet is so cheaply made, and wants to unravel when cut, I bought 4 dimmer switch grommets for the pedals. The dimmer switch grommet is apparently for a mid-1950s Chevrolet, but it is a nice piece 1” center diameter and the back is 2 ¾”. The top that you see is about 2”in diameter. Part K17 from The Miami Corporation in Cincinnati, Ohio. Time will tell if they will work as I think the brake & clutch pedal have some up and down motion when pressed, and the grommet on the gas pedal may prevent accelerating at wide open throttle. Tomorrow, I hope to get the pedals test fitted.

For the inside door frame, I purchased what is described as “door aperture trim”, part 99457, also known as windlace. Does anyone know how this is supposed to be attached (mine looks like it’s nailed down with carpet tacks) and how I can get it under the head liner at the top of the door?
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Old Oct 21st, 2018, 04:48   #74
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The windlace needs to be fitted before the headliner. On the sides of the inside of the roof the headliner it is fixed in position with nasty looking saw tooth / shark's tooth jagged edges into which the headliner is folded and stuffed in - allowing the inwards facing teeth to catch and hold the material.

The windlace is indeed "just" tacked into bits of compacted wood that run around the doorways.
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Old Oct 21st, 2018, 04:52   #75
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I put some pictures here =>

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showt...277319&page=17



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Old Oct 21st, 2018, 13:13   #76
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Thanks for the posts and the pics Army.

The thought of removing the headliner is not so appealing as I have other tasks in mind. I think my headliner had been previously replaced, but it is still quite old and would probably tear if I put any pressure on it.

After I posted last night, I did find this video on headliner replacement for the PV 544. Of course, the fellow's English isn't so good, but I get the idea. The "nasty teeth" that you describe on that piece above the door are shown at 9:44.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mGYedrWWxRE

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Old Oct 21st, 2018, 14:25   #77
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Army, the pictures in your linked thread also answered another question for me.
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Old Oct 21st, 2018, 18:02   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blueosprey90 View Post
Army, the pictures in your linked thread also answered another question for me.
That seems dangerously close to multi-tasking!

I think we'd better be careful about that - we don't want the "could you just..." people to find out - our workloads might increase if they get a hint of efficiency...
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Old Oct 22nd, 2018, 01:18   #79
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Cold today.

Got the brake and clutch pedals reinstalled. Got the accelerator linkage reinstalled. Gas pedal still needs to go on. Was really a 2 man job, but as always, I was working alone, so took three times the time.
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Old Nov 2nd, 2018, 04:09   #80
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Over the last few weeks, the ball & socket gas pedal has been reinstalled. It just presses onto one spherical ball at the top and two at the bottom. Under the car, the emergency brake cable has been reinstalled as well as the dimmer switch casing. The emergency brake has too much slack, but I didn’t see how I could tighten the cable up. Makes me wonder how much the rear brake pads are worn.

Took the opportunity to grease the brake & clutch pedal pivots and the left front wheel suspension components. Sixty years of dirt encrusted grease scraped off the suspension components!

Test fit the kick panels and tried to figure out how to attach. Most likely, I’ll just screw them on. Can’t see how the original panels were attached. The metal here and up under the dash is pretty rusty. Sent off for some rust converter and rust encapsulator paints. Not sure if I will actually paint because it looks like it will be a very messy endeavor.

Wanted to go to the fabric store tonight to see if I could get some padding with which to refurbish my passenger seat but arrived home from work too late.

So with an evening on my hands, I undertook the shift tower challenge. Mission creep at its best.

The shift tower hole in the transmission tunnel looked like it had been stuffed with foam or rags to keep oil and fumes from entering the cabin. It also had a cut and some damage on the right side.






Not only did the material looked oil soaked, but it was clear from oily deposits in the cabin and on the carpet that it didn’t exactly work. I removed the shift tower cover piece and then the material. Essentially, it was just a rag ultimately wrapped with medical gauze and then some sort of tape.





The hole in the shift tower piece was a bit mutilated, and the whole piece, top and bottom was covered in sludge.


The transmission is not stock. Not that I know what they mean, a plate under (above) the transmission mount support indicates that the transmission is a Type M-3, Det Nr 254160 and Tillv Nr 1450. The transmission is marked #656552 on top, and has castings on the driver’s side, “Kobing Sweeden”.






My plan is to close up the big hole in the transmission tower piece. Initially I thought I might flatten it out and then weld a new circular piece on to close the hole. But now, I’m thinking it would be much easier and faster for me just to fiberglass down the size of the hole.





There is what I assume to be an oil fill hole at the rear of the transmission. What is the procedure with this?



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