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B23A to B230FT conversion

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Old Oct 5th, 2018, 21:21   #41
skidje
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If skimming the head. Wouldn’t we take a bit more than just a skim? A slight increase to CR wouldn’t be bad. Any advise.. I will mainly run LPG injected.

Engine refreshing is all clear. Looking at the 13c and 15G turbo i notice some play (bit radial but more lateral). Im considering a new cartridge. Is mellet a proper quality?
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Old Oct 10th, 2018, 23:43   #42
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The loom(s) I have been potentially offered are from a k reg ('92) 2.0 240 with LH 2.4.

Do I need the engine bay looms and interior loom or ?

Will these looms work with my mechanical gauges?

Any thoughts?

Thanks.
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Old Oct 10th, 2018, 23:47   #43
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You need the full wiring loom, not done the swap so not 100% on it all plugging in
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Old Oct 10th, 2018, 23:48   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skidje View Post
If skimming the head. Wouldn’t we take a bit more than just a skim? A slight increase to CR wouldn’t be bad. Any advise.. I will mainly run LPG injected.
With a Turbo you dont want to increase the CR especially if running on LH2.4
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Old Oct 10th, 2018, 23:51   #45
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How did the testing go with the mandrel bent 2.5 down pipe?

Do you have any pics?
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Old Nov 1st, 2018, 09:03   #46
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It's great to be busy with work but the weeks aren't half flying by!

I am still putting together my shopping list.
Though I have sourced a full engine+interior loom from a LH2.4 240 ('91).

So the plan is to pull the block dizzy from the B23 and install on the B230.
We had also discussed pulling the T cam out in favour of the A cam.

If I am to have the head skimmed and a new HG, why not just take the head from the B23 complete and pop that on the B230 block?

That way I don't need to shim the cam as it's already installed and I won't need the oil bung?

The B23 head is 398 which from my research is identical to the 530 on the B230.
The thing people seem to worry about are the sizes of the coolant passages, with small being desirable.

How and where do I confirm whether my 398 head has small or big passages?
Is this really worth worrying about?
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Old Nov 1st, 2018, 10:21   #47
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I've been meaning to ask how you were getting on...

The turbo heads have sodium filled exhaust valves, much better to use the B230FK head.

There are other more minor differences, like the cambelt cover is not compatible.

Depending on what you're doing with the B23, I'd pull the cam and shims and keep them aside for a rainy day

I've been using mine all week to get to work and remembering the auto box - think you'll really like it
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Old Nov 2nd, 2018, 09:29   #48
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Thanks as always.
I forgot about the fancy valves.
I'm not trying to cut corners but not do work which is unnecessary.

The plan is to pull the 240 off the road for the time it takes to do the swap properly. So with the B23 out and alongside the B230, I'd like to do everything I can, which would include swapping cams whilst it's easily accessible.

My dad has agreed to let me borrow his car as he's retired now and can use my mums anyway. The best in that is I sold him his car as it was mine before the 240...a X5 4.8is, tweaked! Volvo might be off the road for a while. Ha.
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Old Nov 2nd, 2018, 17:33   #49
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Stick with the head from the B230FK, as above.

If you've got the luxury of having both engines next to each other and you don't need to rush to get the 240 back on the road, then you could do several things now rather than regret not doing them later. In no particular order:

Engine:
clean and paint
replace freeze plugs
take sump off and check/clean oil pump
make new turbo oil drain - various threads on this
rebuild turbo with new seals
port exhaust manifold
port turbo housing
port head - gasket match inlet and exhaust
skim head
lap valves
replace inlet valve stem seals
replace valve hushers
change to A cam and set valve clearances to suit
replace oil separator
replace all vacuum lines
clean everything

engine bay:
clean and paint including cross member etc
think about how the wiring will route and fix it all in place nicely

sure there's more - but you get the idea. If you have the luxury of not needing the car back on the road then take your time and do everything now....

Cheers
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Old Feb 21st, 2019, 19:05   #50
240ratrod
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Wow how the weeks just thunder by!

So, the B230 engine is now broken apart...
- The head and the A-cam from the B23 are at a local machine shop for skimming/shimming.
- The exhaust manifold had a hair-line crack so that's at a local fabricator for welding.
- I have a full wiring loom from a late 240 so that's next to be transplanted into my 240.

I'm about to order all new gaskets and seals, etc.
Do I need new cylinder head bolts?
Water pump from B230 looks good.
Block mounted dizzy is being swapped from B23 to B230.

Re ECU's, my 940 has an immobilised Fuel ECU and a non-chippable EZK.
Plan A) Pull the immobiliser unit, antenna and tape the key together so it's disabled.
Plan B) Bung a new EPROM in the fuel ECU and reap the benefits and no immobiliser.

What benefits will I see and/or miss from only changing ECU chip and not EZK chip? I know I can either source a chippable EZK or look at adding the daughter board down the line but wondered what peoples experiences were?

I think I'll go with new Fuel ECU chip to do away with immobiliser faf and just keep the EZK as is for now. Thoughts?

As I have no car now this project will be moving forward with some hast one hopes! Lot's to do still but learning every day!
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