Deathtrap

[R-P]

Right now I am so furious, I just want to drive it into a lake and forget about the darn thing.

There's something wrong, but it affects the locks in such a way that the doors cannot be opened with the levers. So if we were to be in it while I drive it into a lake (...), we would die a horrible death because the doors will simply not open. (Remote control doesn't work, central locking doesn't work when manually opening the driver-door, which is the only door we can open, thanks to the key).

How can this be that some malfunctioning piece of electronics can prevent a mechanical opening of the door with the doorlever? In a supposedly safe car???



AAARRRGGGGHHHHHH

Oh, and the dash does not function (apart from a few lights), the accelleration is worse than ever, the indicators don't work and the automatic rearview mirror is in night-mode. All (different) fuses that are related to these malfunctions seem OK.


Edit: this is scary... when googling it I get a post by myself from 2013... It's 30 degrees C again, like last time...

This also claims it is communication issues, but no solution. I wouldn't call disconnecting the battery a 'solution'.

[outnumbered]

R P I think it's time to call it a day.
You have been patient long enough now and all the work you have done you should hold your head up high.
Move on
Good luck
Mike

[Rossi-fan]

I haven't followed your on going problems, so if its been brought up previously, i apologize, but could some of your problems not point to a faulty DIM?

[R-P]

It was fixed (once again) by unhooking the battery. This time at the jump-point under the hood. (As the boot wouldn't open.)
I have opened up the DIM before, resoldering all suspect solderjoints, only to find it was indeed just a fuse... (not linked to the first or second failure of the DIM in conjunction with the indicators not working and the central locking not functioning, but a third occasion when the DIM just didn't light up but I had no other errors)
Hence my fuel gauge having an offset You have to ripp off all needles of the dials beforte you can open it and putting it back in the exact same position is hard.

From everything I read, it is, as Outnumbered answered the first time, a CANBUS issue.
If it does happen again, I will measure some voltages on the datalines to see if it is some grounding issue, but I doubt it as it is solved by simply taking the voltage of off the cars electronics.
There is quite some sparking when I reattached the battery. So I guess all computers draw a significant amount when first seeing voltage after being cut off.

Once again, I think it is VERY POOR designing of Volvo that ANYTHING can cause the mechanical opening of the doors to fail. I simply cannot understand the design-choice made here.

[luggsey]

Originally Posted by R-P

It was fixed (once again) by unhooking the battery. This time at the jump-point under the hood. (As the boot wouldn't open.)
I have opened up the DIM before, resoldering all suspect solderjoints, only to find it was indeed just a fuse... (not linked to the first or second failure of the DIM in conjunction with the indicators not working and the central locking not functioning, but a third occasion when the DIM just didn't light up but I had no other errors)
Hence my fuel gauge having an offset You have to ripp off all needles of the dials beforte you can open it and putting it back in the exact same position is hard.

From everything I read, it is, as Outnumbered answered the first time, a CANBUS issue.
If it does happen again, I will measure some voltages on the datalines to see if it is some grounding issue, but I doubt it as it is solved by simply taking the voltage of off the cars electronics.
There is quite some sparking when I reattached the battery. So I guess all computers draw a significant amount when first seeing voltage after being cut off.

Once again, I think it is VERY POOR designing of Volvo that ANYTHING can cause the mechanical opening of the doors to fail. I simply cannot understand the design-choice made here.

Is your car ex plod?
Maybe the door security thing is some sort of plod software...?

[reggit]

Sounds like the deadlocks not releasing. Opening the drivers door with the key should still operate the central locking. I'd be investigating that fault first. I am assuming that neither the interior or exterior door handles will open the other doors?

[bob865349]

Originally Posted by R-P

Right now I am so furious, I just want to drive it into a lake and forget about the darn thing.

There's something wrong, but it affects the locks in such a way that the doors cannot be opened with the levers. So if we were to be in it while I drive it into a lake (...), we would die a horrible death because the doors will simply not open. (Remote control doesn't work, central locking doesn't work when manually opening the driver-door, which is the only door we can open, thanks to the key).

How can this be that some malfunctioning piece of electronics can prevent a mechanical opening of the door with the doorlever? In a supposedly safe car???



AAARRRGGGGHHHHHH

Oh, and the dash does not function (apart from a few lights), the accelleration is worse than ever, the indicators don't work and the automatic rearview mirror is in night-mode. All (different) fuses that are related to these malfunctions seem OK.


Edit: this is scary... when googling it I get a post by myself from 2013... It's 30 degrees C again, like last time...

This also claims it is communication issues, but no solution. I wouldn't call disconnecting the battery a 'solution'.

If no one has suggested it yet I suggest you contact Lukasz at Volvo Diagnostics tel 07977660678. I have a 2011 XC70 D5 which had lots of issues when we first bought it Lukasz has fixed all of them as they have cropped up, he is a very fair and honest individual and his work is top notch. recently had a starting issue whilst in France, Volvo Chartre said it needed a starter motor at 735€ but after fitting it it still wouldn't start so they put it back together with the old starter motor and I managed to get the car back to the UK and then to Lukasz, all that was wrong was the main fuse on the positive lead from the main battery had blown plus one other . Volvo Chartre didn't appear to know about that. If you look on this website you will see lots of times Lukasz has sorted out problems that non of the dealers can fix. I would highly recommend him.

[shoebox]

Thanks. OK that makes things more doable. I basically have two option, and a possible tweak to second option:

1. Your way which seems to be working with for you

2. Essentially same method but point of difference is using self-stick heatsinks

2A. Wiggle the metal box surrounding chips off (metal shield will be off regardless of doing this). messaged somebody on another forum who did this. I'm not sure if they got lucky doing this without consequence. Wonder your opinion regarding this.

I feel with my present ability self stick heatsink might be low risk option for me without screwing things up. If not effective you think I would have issues removing heatsink? I hope Im able to get adhesive tape off.

[shoebox]

Please how did you attach the fan to the case?

[R-P]

Have a look here. It should have all pics.

You can see there's a slide-out part (think "drawer") which features the PCB that needs the heatsink. There's a metal cover over the heatsink that I left off.
And there's a black plastic cover that I also left off. They all impede airflow.

The fan is mounted on the part that holds the slide-out part (think 'cabinet' that holds the 'drawer'). The mountingholes from the fan align with the holes in the cover (= part of the 'cabinet') over the 'drawer'. So with some slight filing, I could position the fan directly over the heatsink (once the 'drawer' is in place.)
Connecting them was with these bolts. (Probably M4, possibly M3).



The maximum diameter of the head is just slightly bigger than the holes in the cover (part of the 'cabinet') so they sit almost flush. I don't think I tapped any threads into the fan-mounting-holes, but I might have, since it is increadably easy since I got a set of these:


Screwing the bolts in place has to be done BEFORE the 'drawer' is in place, as the screwdriver is inserted through holes on the bottom of the 'cabinet'. So that was a fiddly job.



EDIT: just found some older pics about filing down the fan to make it fit and the screwdriver entering through the bottom of the 'cabinet'. And I added them to the link above.