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Accelerator pedal (AP) fault codes

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Old Dec 14th, 2016, 19:33   #21
Clan
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Originally Posted by vfr800fx View Post
Hi guys. I've got an under performing v70 2.4d and using via the only issue i can find so far is that the throttle position ranges from 8% at idle to 67% at full throttle. I have checked the discrepancy between both signals and they are about 0.5% out so nothing drastic.
Does anyone know the operating range of the AP sensor at rest and full throttle?
Cheers
don't look into that too deeply , it is not 0% to 100% ...
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Old Jun 12th, 2021, 22:10   #22
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Hi James !

Firstly the 2 ECM codes are being caused by the CEM code so you can ignore those .
It may help if you know how it works :
The pedal sends out 2 signals , One is digital and goes direct to the ECM , the other is analogu a 0 - 5 volt signal varying with throttle position . This goes direct to the CEM and is converted in the CEM and sent on the network system to the ECU . This is like a plane where everything is duplicated .
So the ECU monitors these two signals and they must both give the same reading in the ECU .

This signal is only failing intermittantly so any fault tracing you do is going to show ok you are never going to be lucky enough to catch the sytem in the fail mode to fault trace it .

I would check the wiring plug on the pedal first . unplug it and with a thin terminal of similar size just press it into each socket in the plug one by one to make sure there is drag when you insert and pull it out . This will test that the terminal is in fact gripping the pins in the pedal socket ..
Get some volvo rapid rust loosener 1161658 and spray the socket and put it back .
next remove the CEM and do the same with the relavent plug which contains the pedal signal wire . Check all the CEM pins for corrosion especialy the big green one .

Hopefully this will do the trick although it may be some weeks before you know .
If it still happens you could run a new wire down from the pedal to the CEM .
Changing the pedal is the last thing before changing the CEM or ECM .. I have never found a pedal which is actualy faulty with this problem .
You do get it serviced properly and have the software updates i take it .. The CEM gets updated at every service so you need to know this has the latest software .

I hope that helps ,
Hi Guys, thanks for your help here some great insights to check. I have a 2010 facelift V50 1.6Eco and have had almost every dodgy wiring issue going from steering lock reset etc. Over the last year have cleaned up all the relays, fuses, cem etc etc and all good. Last issue was throttle pedal one. Various codes pointing to dodgy connections. Took pedal off and cleaned up all contacts and buggered up the plastic bits using modern wd40 (crap) and pedal was no longer smooth but errors went away for a few months. i dont really use the car too much anyway so a few months here doesnt equate to thousands of miles, maybe a 1000 or so. Cant recall codes offhand at the mo but main issue was power reduction and engine service required. You could drive through these for a shortish distance and it would cure itself. But its back again on last trip as I slowed down in traffic, but again a few moments later it cleared itself.

I was going to get a used pedal 4M51-9F836-BK which seems the same as mine despite many differing vehicles using the same one. But I thought I should try your tip on checking voltage pedal to cem. And then it occurred to me lots of these silly problems can often be cured by a software update. Fords were notorious for it. What do you think? If so is there a way to establish what software version I have on the car and what software version is the latest? I guess the latest could be 5yrs old or more but its a good place to start, just ensure you have latest software update? If so how can it be done and what would the costs be ish?

If you think its software first I'll go for that, then the pedal wire to cem, then maybe another pedal and after that if it still happens Im stuffed. Cheers
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Old Jun 13th, 2021, 00:47   #23
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Originally Posted by Pete-V70 D5 2003 View Post
Hi Guys, thanks for your help here some great insights to check. I have a 2010 facelift V50 1.6Eco and have had almost every dodgy wiring issue going from steering lock reset etc. Over the last year have cleaned up all the relays, fuses, cem etc etc and all good. Last issue was throttle pedal one. Various codes pointing to dodgy connections. Took pedal off and cleaned up all contacts and buggered up the plastic bits using modern wd40 (crap) and pedal was no longer smooth but errors went away for a few months. i dont really use the car too much anyway so a few months here doesnt equate to thousands of miles, maybe a 1000 or so. Cant recall codes offhand at the mo but main issue was power reduction and engine service required. You could drive through these for a shortish distance and it would cure itself. But its back again on last trip as I slowed down in traffic, but again a few moments later it cleared itself.

I was going to get a used pedal 4M51-9F836-BK which seems the same as mine despite many differing vehicles using the same one. But I thought I should try your tip on checking voltage pedal to cem. And then it occurred to me lots of these silly problems can often be cured by a software update. Fords were notorious for it. What do you think? If so is there a way to establish what software version I have on the car and what software version is the latest? I guess the latest could be 5yrs old or more but its a good place to start, just ensure you have latest software update? If so how can it be done and what would the costs be ish?

If you think its software first I'll go for that, then the pedal wire to cem, then maybe another pedal and after that if it still happens Im stuffed. Cheers
as i said its never the pedal ,
you need to get a new plug shell for the throttle pedal and renew the terminals too , they have lost their springy grip on the pins , also the other end of the signal wire to the CEM put a new terminal repair wire on that too.
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Old Jun 13th, 2021, 08:50   #24
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"as i said its never the pedal"

Well that saves a £40 punt then on a used one.

"you need to get a new plug shell for the throttle pedal and renew the terminals too , they have lost their springy grip on the pins"

You mean as in a new part? Whats that called in their lingo?

"also the other end of the signal wire to the CEM put a new terminal repair wire on that too"

OK thats the next project then thanks.

Any thoughts on the software update idea?
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Old Jun 13th, 2021, 23:07   #25
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"as i said its never the pedal"

Well that saves a £40 punt then on a used one.

"you need to get a new plug shell for the throttle pedal and renew the terminals too , they have lost their springy grip on the pins"

You mean as in a new part? Whats that called in their lingo?

"also the other end of the signal wire to the CEM put a new terminal repair wire on that too"

OK thats the next project then thanks.

Any thoughts on the software update idea?
every dealer will have done these over the last 14 years, the plastic shell is called a "Housing" and you want the 6 terminal repair wires which fit it.

HOUSING 8690598
TERMINAL REPAIR 30765498 X 6

I usually run a new white wire between the throttle pedal terminal Pin 2 and and Pin 31 of Green connector G under the CEM on the left side as it goes up behind the dash and could be trapped up there somewhere ..

software won't have any effect of a fundamental main control of the car ..
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Old Jun 14th, 2021, 08:18   #26
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every dealer will have done these over the last 14 years, the plastic shell is called a "Housing" and you want the 6 terminal repair wires which fit it.

HOUSING 8690598
TERMINAL REPAIR 30765498 X 6

I usually run a new white wire between the throttle pedal terminal Pin 2 and and Pin 31 of Green connector G under the CEM on the left side as it goes up behind the dash and could be trapped up there somewhere ..

software won't have any effect of a fundamental main control of the car ..
Thanks for that. I see you have been a busy boy elsewhere on the subject over the years so its much appreciated.

Is this the right part no HOUSING 8690598? I cant find it anywhere but a US volvo site, so at least i can see exactly what the part looks like.
https://www.volvopartswebstore.com/p...6/8690598.html

You mentioned elsewhere about some special tools for the pins. Lots of rubbish about so do you have any that are good in practice?

I wonder if it might just be better to bypass the plug completely and make your own and extend the darn wires so you can at least work on the thing as its only 6wires. What exactly was the known issue beyond the female plugs going loose? And was there really no way of tightening them up a little with a fine probe push against the edges or suchlike, or even a thin coating of solder on the male pins?

My son was a Ford service guy and said around the time of my car 2010 onwards they were always having software issues and constantly having to update them. He reckons it was one of the main sources of angst in the cars.

Just realised I will need to get another pedal anyway because the wd40 buggered up the plastic shaft on the pedal so its very sticky now. Not terminal but a real PITA knowing its there especially in stop/start traffic. Cheers

Last edited by Pete-V70 D5 2003; Jun 14th, 2021 at 08:20.
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Old Jun 14th, 2021, 12:00   #27
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Originally Posted by Pete-V70 D5 2003 View Post
Thanks for that. I see you have been a busy boy elsewhere on the subject over the years so its much appreciated.

Is this the right part no HOUSING 8690598? I cant find it anywhere but a US volvo site, so at least i can see exactly what the part looks like.
https://www.volvopartswebstore.com/p...6/8690598.html

You mentioned elsewhere about some special tools for the pins. Lots of rubbish about so do you have any that are good in practice?

I wonder if it might just be better to bypass the plug completely and make your own and extend the darn wires so you can at least work on the thing as its only 6wires. What exactly was the known issue beyond the female plugs going loose? And was there really no way of tightening them up a little with a fine probe push against the edges or suchlike, or even a thin coating of solder on the male pins?

My son was a Ford service guy and said around the time of my car 2010 onwards they were always having software issues and constantly having to update them. He reckons it was one of the main sources of angst in the cars.

Just realised I will need to get another pedal anyway because the wd40 buggered up the plastic shaft on the pedal so its very sticky now. Not terminal but a real PITA knowing its there especially in stop/start traffic. Cheers
Yes that's the housing , any dealer will get you one same day if you ask early enough , or next day .

You can use a pin to bend the retaining tag a little to get the terminal out .

the new terminals have a better coating , gold plated in some cases ...
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Old Jun 15th, 2021, 16:40   #28
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Good info!

Dad's car has never given any further grief, but it's useful to have the info stored, just in case...

cheers

James
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Old Sep 28th, 2021, 08:46   #29
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Yes that's the housing , any dealer will get you one same day if you ask early enough , or next day .

You can use a pin to bend the retaining tag a little to get the terminal out .

the new terminals have a better coating , gold plated in some cases ...
OK finally need to take the plunge on the dreaded plug. As fiddling with it, and changing the pedal, once again it lasted a couple of months but that said a couple of months is only maybe 4to6 drives out and about. General engine service required started up again, then anti-skid service kicked in and that proved terminal on one u-turn until ignition off and on again. The steering wheel turn thing also kicked in again which was one of the first issues I had but we disconnected it a couple of years back. Seems jiggling steering column adjustment woke it up again and it wouldnt start the until thing was removed and given a good kicking. Can steering lock be bypassed?

OK back to pedal plug please.

1: Do the pedal wires just pull out of plug and are pushed back in?
2: What is the exact procedure advised to actually get at the plug let alone change wires?
3: You mention elsewhere "I usually run a new white wire between the throttle pedal terminal Pin 2 and and Pin 31 of Green connector G under the CEM on the left side as it goes up behind the dash and could be trapped up there somewhere" Do you mean change the pins in each plug too, so in effect a fly lead?

The old gals gotta go now its jsut too little used and too much of a PITA.
Many thanks.
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Old Sep 28th, 2021, 11:43   #30
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OK finally need to take the plunge on the dreaded plug. As fiddling with it, and changing the pedal, once again it lasted a couple of months but that said a couple of months is only maybe 4to6 drives out and about. General engine service required started up again, then anti-skid service kicked in and that proved terminal on one u-turn until ignition off and on again. The steering wheel turn thing also kicked in again which was one of the first issues I had but we disconnected it a couple of years back. Seems jiggling steering column adjustment woke it up again and it wouldnt start the until thing was removed and given a good kicking. Can steering lock be bypassed?

OK back to pedal plug please.

1: Do the pedal wires just pull out of plug and are pushed back in?
2: What is the exact procedure advised to actually get at the plug let alone change wires?
3: You mention elsewhere "I usually run a new white wire between the throttle pedal terminal Pin 2 and and Pin 31 of Green connector G under the CEM on the left side as it goes up behind the dash and could be trapped up there somewhere" Do you mean change the pins in each plug too, so in effect a fly lead?

The old gals gotta go now its jsut too little used and too much of a PITA.
Many thanks.
1 you need a pin to press back the tag to allow it to pull out , you will see a slot on the shell housing . see the new repair terminal
2 take the throttle pedal off , 3 nuts ...

3 yes a new white wire with the volvo repair termnal wire soldered on at each end .
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