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Problems won't go away. What else could there be?

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Old Jun 13th, 2021, 22:20   #111
yostumpy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by venomtail View Post
If I remember correctly, the fuel filter was changed when the oils were changed along with the new timing belt.

And as for the fuel that comes out of the fuel lines connected to the injectors, clear as can be. Not black and slimy as Yostumpy described.
The fuel that come out of the injectors, when diesel bug is present, is not black and slimy, because the filters, have caught it, to the extent that they are partially / mostly blocked, the fuel at the injectors will still be clear, just not much/enough, of it. Hence the gravity fed fuel supply of fresh fuel, that's if the fuel system can accommodate this.
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Old Jun 14th, 2021, 08:49   #112
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Just to clarify the above, ‘diesel bug’ is not a problem with the diesel fuel, but rather an algae / fungal growth, in the water that is present within your tank. When a vehicle sits with a tank that is not completely full, condensation will form on the internal uncovered parts of the tank and it’s the water that attracts the bug, and gets dragged through the filters. I think the problem is less so with modern plastic tanks, butt there is usually some water present in underground diesel storage tanks. I had this in my old Landrover, and when I took off the filter, there were tiny black ‘worms’, (not actually worms, but thin strips of algae growth) so I changed the filter and added a special additive to the fuel in the tank, that’s smells quite strong, and that cured it.
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Old Sep 12th, 2021, 16:48   #113
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Default Where on VIDA to see injector singals?

Browsing the web, I saw another guy have issues with his cars (injectors not receiving signals) and in the video he said that he used diagnostic software to see if signals were sent to the injectors. They were, so the only fault was the the signals weren't being sent and he found a split wire to the injectors. Of course that was a different car with different software that the guy didn't show so don't have much to go on off.

VIDA is very confusing and still struggle to understand it. Was hoping someone knows where I can check on VIDA if car reports of injector signals being sent to the injectors.

As for the previous suggestion. The fuel quality is fine even before the injectors, there is fuel pressure so I doubt there's algea of a broken fuel pump, since there would be no fuel pressure. Also Campshaft position sensor's working all fine.

Last edited by venomtail; Sep 12th, 2021 at 17:12. Reason: Forgot camshaft position sensor
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Old Sep 12th, 2021, 19:49   #114
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What if it's a simple issue of me not bleeding the air out of the fuel lines correctly? I'm following this simple video but what if I'm missing some step?
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Old Sep 14th, 2021, 20:33   #115
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Venomtail, you have an extraordinary amount of tolerance. Nearly a year and a half and still not fixed. I would have pushed it off a cliff long ago.
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Old Sep 14th, 2021, 21:49   #116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony Rama View Post
Venomtail, you have an extraordinary amount of tolerance. Nearly a year and a half and still not fixed. I would have pushed it off a cliff long ago.
I couldn’t agree more.
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Old Sep 15th, 2021, 09:55   #117
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I read the whole thread. It is a sad situation. I do not have much knowledge of engines, certainly nowhere near the knowledge of the members who have so far offered advise. So I am hesitant to say anything. But I thought it may be useful to summarise a) the symptoms of the fault, b) look at possible causes, and c) try to find some logical explanation.

From what I understand No4 is not firing. This is evidenced also by the extra smoke.

So from what you have said:

1. Compression is fine.
2. No4 injector has been checked and, is injecting fuel. (hence smoke)

So the question is what would cause No4 not to fire?

Assuming 1 and 2 above are correct then that only leaves valve timing and/or injector timing.

Since the cam belt snapped and it was running OK before that, then that's where I would start.

Double check all the cam timing.

If that is all correct then the next thing would be to take the rocker cover off and physically check that No4 valves are opening and closing as they should.

I have never heard of a cam belt snap and there not be any damage to an engine (unless a non interference design like the Mazda Mx5).

In the Volvo engine, the valves are vertical in relation to the pistons. A piston hitting the valves at low speed might just not damage the piston or the valves (since they are vertical).

If during the cam belt failure, No4 piston hit the inlet valves and they bent the inlet cam followers, then the inlet valves would be opening late and closing early, or not opening at all. There would be insufficient, or no air for combustion. Fuel vapour would be injected as normal and would exit on the exhaust stroke and cause smoke when contacting the hot exhaust manifold. Damaged cam followers would account for why the compression test is fine, since all the valves would close perfectly.

So if the cam timing is all OK, which I suspect it is, since numerous technicians would have checked it, then logically I would conclude No4 inlet cam followers are bent or broken.

Edit: Just found a video of a guy stripping a D5 after a cam belt failure. Seems that the D5 smashes the cam followers before valve or piston damage.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ptmtqe7nflw
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Last edited by Tony Rama; Sep 15th, 2021 at 12:39.
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Old Sep 16th, 2021, 00:08   #118
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Post TLDR from beggining to now

Shame I didn't start this thread when I started tackling the issues, that being right as the timing belt snapped, I'll try and make a concise story from begging to end.

One day over the Humber bridge, my car just stalled/stopped on the bridge leaving me started, had to get recovered. Found out that the issue was a snapped timing belt, went to my local Volvo mechanic to get it replaced and sorted.

After replacing the Timing belt, checking the timing, possible damages and all that checking out as well as replacing some other worn parts, I got the car back and was running fine.

There was a slight lack of power going 0-60 but we concluded that it must had been the "Soot full" message at fault that appeared several months after the timing belt replacement. Hasn't been the first time as we've had it in the past and other dealerships (even went to a top notch auto service one time I was cought with the DPF message while being abroad on holiday) and have done their "regeneration" process that sorted the issue out previously.

Fairly quickly after the recent DPF full message appeared, the car went into a limp mode with a lack of power, one that even somebody who doesn't drive cars would notice. That's when I started created this thread.


Then the first covid lockdown happened and the place we wanted to get our DPF filter sorted at cancelled everything on the day it was meant to happen. Having no luck cleaning it ourselves, we bought a replacement as well as all the new sensors and everything. After installing everything, I can't exactly remember why we couldn't go back to our mechanic but had to go to the Volvo dealership for them to reset the software + do a diagnostics just in case anything was missed. Kinda weird that a car needs software after a DPF replacement.

Drove to the dealership just fine and when I got the keys and walked back to my car, it was barely functional, sounding like a cyclider wans't working. Close to no power, can't participate in traffic. Looking back now I know I should have just barged back in the dealership and told them to sort this out, give back a car that I delivered to them, however for some reason in the heat of the moment we just towed the car back home. They claimed that's how they got the cars, but since I didn't wait to see them sit in the car, turn it on and drive it into the service themselves, I'll never know. Now I'll know better to never take my eyes off my car, even at a dealership.


Later, with the Volvo mechanic we slowly replaced part after part and going to other mechanic to check up on things my mechanic didn't have tools for (such as for compression and injector testing) everything was good (One garage/service was attrocious however. The attitude and care isn't acceptable. They forgot to put the car back together when I came to pick it up and didn't clean their black oiled hands when getting into a white leather car. Still have stains in several places). If I remember correctly, the last garage that got our car all dirty we didn't trust, thus their results that each injector runs fine + swapping them around changed nothing. We planned to test the injectors out ourselves. In the process of towing the car around the "Soot filter full" message reappeared again, some 6 miles after a complete DPF filter replacement, sensor replacement and computer DPF reset. We also went back to the dealership one last time who spent some £400+ for them to not find anything.

Testing out each injector ourselves, we found nothing as all the reading and spray patterns matched up to what they should be. Sure it might not have been the most scientifically accurate test compared to a professional machine but it did the job of showing us that the injectors worked. Noid lights also worked and showed that the injectors were receiving the signals they should have.

Going to place back the injectors and tightening them by hand first, we noticed that screw 2 of injector 4 was looping. Somebody had stipped a thread for one of the screws. Sadly I can't go on a witch hunt to find who's at fault since so many people have handled injectors, in and out, in and out... To make a new thread the swirl flap cover has to come off. After all is said and done, everthing back in place we tried to start the car but nothing. The engine turns over but nothing follows. Tried to prime(? not sure about the terminology), basically bleed the air out of the high pressure fuel pump but no luck. I hope we're just doing it wrong but still strange. It's should be an easy process and the first fuel system my dad can't even get to bleed properly and he has some 40+ years of working on engines, cars, motorbikes, mostly trucks and tracktors however. The fuel comes out clean from the low pressure pump just this high pressure pump that is proving difficult right now. We do the bleed correctly, and when turning the engine over, sounds like the first cyclider work and nothing after that. We can also see that there are bubbles from cylinder 4 when turning over so doubt the new thread is working as well as we hoped. Did I even mention that some of the screws holding the injectors in place had been replaced by some service with some cut short wrong ones not the original spec that should be there? Shameful...

That's pretty much all and where I am at. Hope this helped get the whole picture from start to now and that I didn't miss anything as the months and events are kinda blurring into each other.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony Rama View Post
I read the whole thread. It is a sad situation.

From what I understand No4 is not firing. This is evidenced also by the extra smoke.

Since the cam belt snapped and it was running OK before that, then that's where I would start.

Double check all the cam timing.

If that is all correct then the next thing would be to take the rocker cover off and physically check that No4 valves are opening and closing as they should.

I have never heard of a cam belt snap and there not be any damage to an engine (unless a non interference design like the Mazda Mx5).
The evidence that Cyclinder 4 is at fault is the VIDA reading that there was a misfire at cylinder 4, the engine didn't change when cyclinder 4 was disconnected as well as the stripped thread allowing bubbles to come from cylinder 4.

The reason why no one has really checked the valves is because the engine worked and worked well after the timing belt replacement. They were even checked during the timing belt replacement and the 2nd time round the dealership visit. Only did the cylinder issues appear after receiving the car back from the Volvo dealership. Since they said that's how they received the car, the only logical thing left is that cylinder 4 went and broke itself, maybe even a valve while the engine was turned off, sitting alone in a Volvo secure car park...

Last edited by venomtail; Sep 16th, 2021 at 00:20. Reason: Spelling, grammar
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Old Sep 16th, 2021, 01:08   #119
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Are you going to check the timing belt alignment and the cam followers and valves? At least this will confirm the functionality of the mechanical parts. Take a look at the video I posted a link to. It shows what happens when a cam belt breaks. Your engine is highly unlikely to have escaped any damage at all.

If they are all functioning correctly then the next thing to look at is the pulse signal to the injectors. It would need someone with an oscilloscope to check for an intermittent signal. Next check the position sensor and wiring for the injector timing.
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Last edited by Tony Rama; Sep 16th, 2021 at 01:18.
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Old Sep 16th, 2021, 20:08   #120
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I think in this video I watched (or maybe it was part 1) there's an anecdote about someone who rebuilt an engine and used the same camshaft (or similar to that effect) because it looked fine, what they hadn't taken into account was that the failure had knocked the lobes all out of sync so the timing was all wrong and the engine wouldn't work.
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