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Rough ride

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Old Jun 12th, 2021, 23:34   #1
seanbont
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Default Rough ride

Hi would really appreciate some advice please.
I have an 05 S60 D5. 130k miles,
The ride has recently gotten quite harsh. Where we live the roads aren’t the best and she is crashing over bumps. Much more than she did before. We’ve had the car for years.
On a smoother road no issues and handling doesn’t seem to be affected.

My first thought was shocks but not sure now. As far as I remember she’s pretty much original so I’m guessing everything is worn but would welcome a steer on what to go at first.

Thanks
Sean
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Old Jun 13th, 2021, 03:49   #2
Georgeandkira
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...and I bet the brake fluid hasn't been flushed either.

Shocks/struts/related hardware like seats and possibly bearing plates are due.
The bushings in the control arms give out. I'd recommend polyurethane bushings if you're organized enough.

Depending on whether that vehicle was driven into curbs or not you may need tie rod ends.

How foul is your coolant?

Automatic trannie? Let's talk fluid drain.


How long have you owned it?
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Old Jun 13th, 2021, 14:31   #3
seanbont
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We've owned the car for ten years and almost 100k. Not sure how brake fluid or coolant would be an issue but...

Its been maintained throughout.
Timing belt water pump etc changed two years 10k ago. Tie rods inner and outer last year along with drop links. Brake flush and rear calipers last year along with trans fluid steering fluid. New tyres about 1k ago (thought this may be a factor unfortunately not)

Springs, ball joints, shocks I haven't changed and wondered what was the most likely culprit. No advisory on the mot and the local garage we use say it all seems serviceable under there and question the sense of replacement.

His view is it's a 15 year old car. It's just old age.

For me from the driver's seat it has become significantly more harsh over potholes recently.
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Old Jun 13th, 2021, 16:11   #4
Georgeandkira
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"As far as I remember she’s pretty much original so I’m guessing everything is worn but would welcome a steer on what to go at first."

The tone of this sentence led me to conclude you were in the dark over a newly acquired vehicle. Like so many cars, I assumed it was neglected.
This is why I included brake fluid/coolant and transmission fluid...as a subtle warning about their likely condition. I assumed those important fluids were 15 years old too.

I'm going to assume that your MOT man is on your side and is trying to save you unnecessary expense.
However, 15 years is a long time-longer with heavy cars like ours- and dampers age. I've seen 'em lose effectiveness with and without leaking.

Your harsh ride (no mention of banging or clunking) points to shocks / struts.
My '02 improved much after installing the rear shocks. New matching fronts added more solidity. One strut was leaking horribly and had some stiffness left and the other was bone dry and reacted like it was an empty tube...a complete zero.

I suppose someone will be along to suggest the foam in your seat cushion has flattened over the past 15 years too (ha-ha).

So even though the shocks & struts are serviceable I'd consider renewing them.
I'd use a heavier duty version if available. The Sachs SuperTourings I installed were said to be closest to stock which was fine.
However, heavier duty dampers on other vehicles added a brightness I think many would prefer.
Be wary about "quick-struts" (complete replacement units) because questions regarding component quality and resulting ride height (spring force) ALWAYS come up.
While any spring can break the era of bad Volvo springs is long over. I say this to discount the, "Volvos have bad springs so you're better off with quick-struts" argument.
Yes on examining the ball joints too.

It feels good to own a car for 10 years, doesn't it? Folks swap vehicles as they approach 90K miles for fear of, "losing trade-in value" only to wrestle with unfamiliar 2 to 4 year old cars.
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Old Jun 18th, 2021, 20:42   #5
seanbont
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Thanks for the advice.
You're spot on, the garage we use is trying to help. He simply doesn't believe in preventative maintenance on an old car. Where would it end.
I always assumed shocks bounced when worn or would dive/float but no. It just is extremely harsh over potholes nothing else. It sat parked for a few months so maybe that didn't help.
Ive definitely had my money's worth out of these shocks so you've convinced me to replace. Hopefully we'll see an improvement.

Thanks
Sean
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Old Jun 18th, 2021, 23:19   #6
Georgeandkira
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Cars with bad dampers haven't bobbed after the old "bumper test" for years. I read the reason a long time ago and cannot remember it.

If Bilstein is too dear the brand KYB has a good rep on this side of the Atlantic.
Don't go cheap.

Deciding on a course of action with an older car isn't easy. You must have enough car savvy to predict the future. Also, clearly organized records, not a wad of rumpled receipts in a large envelope, help.
If you have such an envelope, just list your repairs starting with the oldest. One line for each episode. The date goes in the left column.

You'd never drive a car with threadbare tires because "it's older and not worth it". Then, if new dampers tighten your car up, it'll clarify your crystal ball.
Other possibly worn front end parts are separate from the struts.

And be warned, if you curb your front wheels or hit every pothole at speed with careless abandon you may need tie rod ends etc. but since you didn't mention wandering, you're in serviceable shape.

Not everyone realizes that our cars (these P2 Volvos) are great cars. All machines need maintenance. "Its been maintained throughout", means you're in great shape! There is no point at which you needn't spend any more money. You do get lengthy gaps-between-repairs with these cars.

You're in the opposite position from the metaphorical specter of some blood-sucking money pit of a car finally blowing up right after you have it painted.
The drama would share a vocabulary but you're operating from the good corner. The bad corner is some 50 quid used car you know nothing about.

You've owned the car for 10 years and have maintained it WELL.
Dampers on a 130K Volvo is no big deal at all.


Am I a cheerleader or what?

Last edited by Georgeandkira; Jun 18th, 2021 at 23:29.
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Old Jun 19th, 2021, 19:32   #7
oragex
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As mentioned above, it's usually old shocks even if none is leaking and they still have good damping. Upon removal, you will perhaps find the upper spring seat is also pretty cracked. Go with Sachs or CRP/Rein. Keep the original bearing plate. Another factor could be old or too inflated tires and 17" wheels. You may also find torn wishbone bush while there, maybe have a look at all wear parts before starting
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Old Jun 19th, 2021, 21:19   #8
ilmiont
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Have you seen my very recent thread about my car?

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=316370

To recap, mine was exactly like you describe - crashing over bumps, but fine on a good road, and no apparent handling issues. Mine appeared to pass the bounce test OK.

New Sachs shocks have vastly improved it (installed at 137k). I last wrote in that thread at the start of the week after only 500 miles on the new shocks; I've been a fair bit further now and I'm so glad I had them changed. Like you, my garage doesn't seem to be too interested in preventative maintenance, and told me they've seen cars come in on 200k on the originals and seemed a bit surprised when I said I wanted them to replace the shocks which were in good visual condition.

I won't rewrite everything I put in my thread, but to summarise the change, the crashiness is gone, road noise has quietened down, feels more stable. No longer thudding over surface imperfections, drain covers, potholes, speed bumps and rumble strips.
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Last edited by ilmiont; Jun 19th, 2021 at 21:25.
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