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Start issue volvo 960 1992

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Old Mar 27th, 2019, 17:48   #1
undertaker
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Default Start issue volvo 960 1992

Hi All,
I have a weird start problem with my volvo 960. If I try to start it from warm or cold it will not start and just cranks. I have to leave the ignition switched on for 10 to 15 minutes, then I try it and it starts every time??? Once started it will run all day without missing a beat. If I stop and switch off then try to restart sometimes it will start immediately but most times I have to wait, usually for a shorter period depending how long it has been stood? Any ideas please? It is as though something has drained and needs to recharge before it will start?
I have fuel pressure at the injector rail. Thanks in advance, Bill
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Old Mar 27th, 2019, 19:20   #2
Laird Scooby
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Sounds very like the fuel pump relay to me. Or maybe the fuel filter. If you sit with the ignition off, will it also restart after 10 minutes?
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Old Mar 27th, 2019, 19:56   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by undertaker View Post
I have to leave the ignition switched on for 10 to 15 minutes, then I try it and it starts every time??? Once started it will run all day without missing a beat. If I stop and switch off then try to restart sometimes it will start immediately but most times I have to wait, usually for a shorter period depending how long it has been stood? Any ideas please?
I had a related problem one time : turning the ignition on fully (like you do) would not start the car,
but turning it to "on" and waiting a few seconds usually led to a start when the key fully turned.
The culprit (I coped for months) was a failing (crappy off-brand) battery due to a failing alternator.
There were no warning lights on the dashboard and the starter sounded lively when it did start : so was very difficult to solve.
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Old Mar 28th, 2019, 06:50   #4
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First check the OBD system to see if there are any codes; if there are then read them and then clear the codes from the system. As Scooby suggests it sounds like a fuel pump relay fault. On my 1993 960 (380k miles) I changed it about 2 years ago and always carry a spare with me, I think its the green one on the top row of the relay box. They are easy to replace and available, but if thats OK the there are other things to look at....but check the relay first.
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Old Mar 28th, 2019, 10:14   #5
undertaker
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Default Start problem

Thank you for all help and suggestions. I will try the relay first plus the codes as this is probably the easiest option then filter and pump. If I sit with ignition off it won't start after ten mins. Have to have the ignition set to on. The battery is good. My garage tested the fuel pressure and told me it is correct within one second of switching on ignition so the fuel pump (s) are delivering.
And the strange thing is that once started i can do 200 miles on all types of road with no further issue until I switch off. This suggests the cranking sensor is ok? Thanks all.
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Old May 11th, 2019, 17:19   #6
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Hi again, Have now changed the fuel pump under the car and also the fuel filter. Still no start! Have tried to change the crank sensor but the star screw is chewed and so can't undo it. Looks like someone has had a go with the wrong tool! Just wondering how to get at it to cut it off. Is there any way I test it? Thanks guys.
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Old May 11th, 2019, 20:19   #7
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My 1992 940 B200F has a small hex head bolt, about 10mms I guess, facing straight up. By “star screw” do you mean a torx socket head? I know it is a b......... to get at due to it’s location and the surrounding pipework, but is it possible to find another torx key, or a spline key that can be forced into it using a long extension?
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Old May 11th, 2019, 21:05   #8
undertaker
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Hi Ian, yes this is a torx head screw and is on the top of the crankcase facing up. I can get a torx driver to with ratchet wrench and extension but it just slipping even though I tried tapping it on with a hammer. I have a new sensor but can't get the old one out unless I can open this screw.
It is a hex head on the 940, 6mm thread, 10mm socket. I have a 940 estate too. Not sure if the sensor is my problem as once running it will run all day and I don't think it would if the sensor was at fault. I would just like to eliminate it.
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Old May 11th, 2019, 21:39   #9
Laird Scooby
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Quote:
Originally Posted by undertaker View Post
I would just like to eliminate it.
Keep going with the hammer and you will, permanently!

Joking aside, it should be a socket head (Allen) screw, not a TX-Start or Torx drive screw. If someone has previously used the wrong Allen key, it's highly likely the head is chewed so it looks like a Torx.

Either way, using the correct size Allen key should bring results or the nearest Imperial size (3/16" is just under 5mm but bigger than 4mm by enough to be a tight fit in a chewed 4mm cap screw) should work.

If you have a decent pair of pliers that grip properly, you could get those on the edge of the bolt head and try moving it that way.

Just to be clear, it's the sensor on top of the bell housing, right? Just behind the rear end of the cylinder head?

As you rightly summise, if it was faulty, it wouldn't run all day without a problem so i think your problems lie in other areas - what symptoms are you getting?
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Old May 12th, 2019, 05:30   #10
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Did you read the OBD codes and check the pump relay first?
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