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04 V40 speaker wiring question

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Old Aug 5th, 2016, 19:02   #1
VolvoMikkel
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Default 04 V40 speaker wiring question

Hello all!

I'm new here and I would really like some help with the wiring of door speakers/top speakers...

I am currently in the process of installing a new sound system.
And I haven´t really tinkered with audio systems so much...

So basically I would like an overview/guide of the wiring on this V40 2004.
It apperently has the premium sound system ? (8 speakers, 6 normal + 2 in Sub). And I am installing a componenet set (tweeter/woofer) in the door/top panel thing. but so far my conclusion is that the door speaker and the top speaker share their speaker cable?

I am sorry if this didnt make sense, if you dont understand i'll try to do my best answering
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Old Aug 6th, 2016, 01:45   #2
druid
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I understand you, but i don't have an answer. I did fit FLI 165W(?) tweeters in the dash/top and 250W in the doors and it all sounds good to me.
Also the sub, it has one speaker and one passive - sort of accordion bellows thing, make sure that is tight - no buzz.
The wiring is a bit voodoo. Good luck!
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Old Aug 6th, 2016, 05:55   #3
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Mine's a bit older than yours, but the two I've dismantled were identical. One is a 1999 (T), one was a 2000 (V).

Regarding the front speakers, the dashboard and door are wired together, thereby making Front Left (+ and -) and Front Right (+ and -), so four wires in total.

The rear speakers, I think some cars have rear door speakers and shelf/pillar speakers, and I would imagine they are wired together, same as above. Mine doesn't, only the shelf/pillar speakers. In any case, you still have Rear Left (+ and -) and Rear Right (+ and -), so four wires in total again.

So that's eight wires in total, then. Simple enough so far.

The subwoofer on both the cars I've dismantled is passive. I believe some cars have an extra amplifier, I can only dream. The way the subwoofer is wired takes some understanding, but basically the passive version that I have has two speakers, four wires in total. Because bass tones are omni-directional, there's no need for a 'left' and 'right' subwoofer. So the subwoofer needs a mono input, that being the sum of both left and right channels, not one or the other. (A good test for this is "Iron Man" by Black Sabbath, whose introduction has a bass foot pedal which pans between the left and right channels).

This is achieved in a passive system by ... well ... it's easier with two actually, which is why there are two bass drivers in the subwoofer, and why there are four wires.
  • Sub driver 1:
    • (+) --> (+) Rear Left
    • (-) --> (-) Rear Right
  • Sub driver 2:
    • (+) --> (+) Rear Right
    • (-) --> (-) Rear Left

It looks a bit unintuitive, but it works (in cars without rear door speakers). If you need further explanation on this, just ask.

Another important factor, since you said you're installing a new system, is speaker impedance. If you don't know about speaker impedance and the difference between Series and Parallel, how that affects impedance and why it's important, just ask.
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Old Aug 6th, 2016, 10:41   #4
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Thanks
@druid No buzzing from the rear, thanks , the problem is the tweeter/woofer combo i´ve bought is not full range , so i need to intercept the wire comming from the door, so i can run it over the crossover

@canis

The wires comming from the door speakers, where do I find them under the dashboard? I need to find it, as I am wiring the tweeter/woofer over a Crossover.

Well it makes sense, the wiring for the sub, in my opinion - You explain it well. But my car is one of those with an amp :-). But so far i've only been able to confirm that there's 4 speaker wires going in the sub, and additional power wires for the amp. - But i'll find out more when i get to the back of the car .

Right now I´ve been busy with the front

Speaker impedence is not something i´m familiar with, so any help is appreciated - But the whole speaker set I´ve bought from a professional car stereo guy - competes worldwide in competetions. So my first thought is that it all works together nicely? :P
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Old Aug 6th, 2016, 15:52   #5
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Update: All of the speakers are 4 ohm impedance if that means anything?
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Old Aug 6th, 2016, 16:33   #6
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The speaker wires work their way into the wiring loom at their first convenience, and don't emerge until they reach the center console behind the head unit. In the door, they go into a multi-plug in the 'A' pillar between the door hinges. Access is notoriously difficult, so you'll probably do better to catch them at the head unit end, inside the center console, and splice them into your crossovers there. If they're not huge, there's probably sufficient space for them on either side of the head unti, between the metal chassis and the plastic interior trim - suprisingly, there's a couple of inches gap there each side.

Okay, the low-down on speaker impedance. Impedance is a measure of resistance. So the more resistance (measured in ohms) the harder the amplifier has to work to make them go. The reason the manner they're wired is important is because when two speakers (4 ohms each) are wired in series, the result is an 8 ohm impedance overall. This may or may not suit you, it depends on your amplifier. If your amplifier would prefer a 4 ohm impedance, the the speakers must be wired parallel to each other, so the overall impedance is 4 ohms and the speakers together will draw more current.

It's quite possible that none of that will matter, since you're attaching them to crossovers, and presumably they're part of the kit you bought from your supplier, and it sounds like he knows what he's talking about so wire it the way he told you. I doubt there's anything I can tell you that isn't already within the realm of his experience. In any case, the crossovers will seperate the tweeter from the woofer, so it's in the crossover circuitry and kinda out of your hands.

Nevertheless, this makes interesting reading academically: http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=68

So If it was me, I'd be trying to get to the front speakers from behind the head unit if you're planning on using the existing cables. Failing that, you'll need to run your own cables, but getting through the multi-plug in the door-shut will be very difficult. The speakers themselves aren't difficult to remove and replace.
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Old Aug 6th, 2016, 23:13   #7
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As I understand it high impedance speakers are easy to drive but not very loud and low impedance speakers are louder but harder to drive for a given power output. Reason being, low impedance speakers draw more current from the amp.

Now I'm not very good on speakers but in general terms if you put 4 ohms of resistance in parallel it averages out at 2ohms (and so will draw twice the current from the amp).
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Old Aug 7th, 2016, 12:35   #8
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Thanks alot!

This should get me a long way, i appreciate it!

I might be back with more questions , highly possible
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Old May 7th, 2020, 23:16   #9
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Exclamation Need help with 04’ v40 speaker set up

Peace peace! I’m currently in need of assistance for this is my first time ever doing this. I’m trying to swap out the speakers I have currently on my 2004 Volvo v40 that I just bought 2 months ago. Idk if the speakers were changed but however the radio has been changed. I own a regular alpine Bluetooth cd joint, however I’m thinking of swapping it for something a bit nicer and with GPS capability. My issue is idk what speaker should go in the front dash as far as tweeters or just regular speakers, also I wanna know if the speakers I may buy come with the same plug insert as the Volvo S40/V40 speaker change video on YouTube. I wanna know what speakers go in the pillars of the back hatch area, and if I need some small tweeters in the back or just use regular speakers, I also am thinking of using the OEM woofer that I found online, do you think between the new speakers and the old OEM woofer would be a problem? This is my first time doing this and I wanna make sure I do the job right, and honestly I don’t want to pay to have it done, that’s an insult! Please someone get back to me!!

AWOL Da Mindwriter- 04 Volvo V40 LSE. 127000
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