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New lady member.... be nice 😃

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Old Dec 29th, 2018, 23:15   #1
Janinehobin
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Hi everyone.

Nice to meet you ! I'm Janine, and I own a Volvo s40 2.0 d.
I purchased my car around 2 months ago. And have had nothing but problems with it since day one

I'm here as a last resort before I give up and sell my beloved car! (I will try to attach photos for you to see).

Anyway, the car, no matter what gear/revs, hot or cold, it does this crazy juddering. Like, a feeling you're being towed, or kangaroo juice in it or like I'm playing with the accelerator- on off on off.
I've changed the turbo, thinking that was the issue (tbh, it did have a broken blade) that however didn't fix the problem. We changed the Maf sensor, turbo boost control solenoid, boost sensor , actuator position sensor, the car no CAT , has EGR blanked off, but not on the ECU.
There's a possible ABS sensor out. But the issue is definitely engine related. I really need some help, someone who's good with the fuel side of the car & injector side. I'm skint, so so skint after spending so much money on it already. So, if anyone has any ideas at all, please do email me or reply here. Thanks so much for reading , and I can't wait to hear from you!

Janine x
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Old Dec 29th, 2018, 23:51   #2
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Hi and welcome to the forum....
I guess you bought it privately then ? Otherwise I'd be running it back to the dealer to have it sorted.
You list the work you've had done, who assessed this and did they state that it would cure the problem ?
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Old Dec 30th, 2018, 01:03   #3
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Would a faulty glow plug cause these issues?

Do you know of anyone that can get it on Vida/Dice to check for error codes?
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Old Dec 30th, 2018, 02:32   #4
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Be aware that an EGR blank-out is an illegal modification to the emissions system and an instant MOT fail in the UK.

If you bought it from a dealer, demand the dealer reinstate the emissions systems to be compliant with MOT regulations

Otherwise, you can be failed at an MOT test and will have to reinstate the EGR at that time.
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Old Dec 30th, 2018, 02:34   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marc View Post
Would a faulty glow plug cause these issues?
Not if the engine is at normal operating temperature.

Glow plugs are only used for starting, and then only when cold (like <10°C)

A juddering stuttering engine is more a sign of a misfire.
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Old Dec 30th, 2018, 02:38   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Janinehobin View Post
Hi everyone.

Nice to meet you ! I'm Janine, and I own a Volvo s40 2.0 d.
I purchased my car around 2 months ago. And have had nothing but problems with it since day one

I'm here as a last resort before I give up and sell my beloved car! (I will try to attach photos for you to see).

Anyway, the car, no matter what gear/revs, hot or cold, it does this crazy juddering. Like, a feeling you're being towed, or kangaroo juice in it or like I'm playing with the accelerator- on off on off.
I've changed the turbo, thinking that was the issue (tbh, it did have a broken blade) that however didn't fix the problem. We changed the Maf sensor, turbo boost control solenoid, boost sensor , actuator position sensor, the car no CAT , has EGR blanked off, but not on the ECU.
There's a possible ABS sensor out. But the issue is definitely engine related. I really need some help, someone who's good with the fuel side of the car & injector side. I'm skint, so so skint after spending so much money on it already. So, if anyone has any ideas at all, please do email me or reply here. Thanks so much for reading , and I can't wait to hear from you!

Janine x
Find yourself a Good indy or main dealer with Vida&dice
get a readout from the car with that and you will know what is wrong with it
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Old Dec 30th, 2018, 08:48   #7
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Hello, thanks for your replies everyone.
So, my fella is an engineer and is good with cars, he's done most of the work, we also have a family member who owns a garage. We've had it on vida and the only things that shows up is the turbo actuator. But this has been fixed. Another fault is the ECU. Previous owner of the car came to visit last week and try to help too. But we're all just stumped. Could it be a simple fuel filter?
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Old Dec 30th, 2018, 08:54   #8
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I also bought the car with all this work done EGR , CAT removal etc. I know the risks, so I'm not concerned about that. Does anyone know here if this could be a fuel related issue?
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Old Dec 30th, 2018, 09:31   #9
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If it is a misfire, VIDA will log it.

It can also monitor a large amount of engine data in real time, and log many problems that are too infrequent to cause a fault message (ENGINE SERVICE REQUIRED) to appear.

Of course, given that the catalytic converter has been removed and the EGR blanked off, the motor will never run properly as Volvo intended.
The operating parameters will not all be what the VIDA manual says, and you need to accept that and then use your head to figure out what should be normal for your modified engine, now that the baseline for "normal" has been altered.

But always start with the basics:

Run the injector tests in VIDA to check injector performance. You can see very quickly if all 5 cylinders are performing equally and within their normal operating parameters.

Check the air intake system is properly sealed and free of leaks: use visual observation first and then a smoke machine if you can get one. A leaky system will cause air/fuel mix errors but would have to be really broken to cause lumpy running. Sometimes really broken does happen: the charged air pipe falls off the turbo - and this causes loud whoosh noises and performance problems above around 2000 rpm. But will idle more or less OK.

Check DPF filter soot levels are within limits. This is a calculated reading, but tells you what the engine is thinking. However a blocked DPF will cause the engine to go into limp mode, and the car will tell you the issue exists. A DPF that is not full enough to trigger limp mode won't be noticed by most people.

Check the air filter is clean (but it has to be incredibly dirty to cause problems like you describe)

Check fuel pressure is OK and stable, replace fuel filter it unknown when it was last replaced. Do not use any form of diesel cleaner additivie.
If additive was added recently, but the fuel filter was not changed, then definitely change the fuel filter. You may have loosened gunk in the tank and moved it to the fuel filter.

Ensure the fuel tank is at least 50% full, to ensure you are not going to suck up muck at the bottom of an empty tank.

VIDA shows a large amount of data and shows many captured errors that may not yet be frequent enough to log an engine fault.
Print out all those errors to PDF, and then copy and paste the data from the PDF (or from the VIDA webpage) into this forum.
Make sure you print out the entire car: all modules, including those without errors, so that forum members can understand what is fitted to the car.
It will help the forum members immensely if they can see exactly what VIDA says, without any detail being lost in translation.

If you do not want people to know exactly what car you have, and help to stay anonymous, you can hide the VIN if you want.
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Old Dec 30th, 2018, 10:21   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Janinehobin View Post
I also bought the car with all this work done EGR , CAT removal etc. I know the risks, ......?
Sorry but I don’t think that you do....

EGR blanking on the earlier 2.0d doesn’t usually cause problems and an MOT tester will probably never spot it but the CAT removal is obvious to all - including the police and DVSA though they aren’t likely to pull over many S40’s unless the exterior is also modified.

My point is that you bought a modified car, and those modifications are not ones that would have been done by a reputable garage or tuning company, so I would question whether they were done well and what else has been done to the car in the mistaken belief that it will improve it? We have had new members on here before that bought de-cat’d cars and it soon became obvious that it was really done because the old cat became clogged due to injector/overfuelling issues, often arising from bodged upgrades and tuning boxes.

My advice would be it is pointless and expensive (as you have found) trying to sort the car as it is - your best option is return it to standard spec (shouldn’t be too expensive, use second hand parts). Once it is running well and as it should do, then make any modifications you want to, one by one and assess the impact of each. If it has a tuning box - get rid of that too as they are usually hopeless.

The issues that you describe do sound fuelling / air leak related though.

So I’m sorry if I’ve not been nice to you.... but not giving you a honest opinion isn’t being nice either....

Good luck.
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Last edited by Tannaton; Dec 30th, 2018 at 10:24.
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