I said i'll be back!

[Laird Scooby]

I plan on changing the leads at some point as well Michael, i did comment and post a pic of my last 740 dizzy cap on your thread at the time, it was nearly as bad as yours before i cleaned it!

For the time being though (and as part of my diagnostic testing for the dizzy cap on this one) i ran the engine in the dark with the bonnet light off and the front lights covered and didn't see any miniature versions of the Northern Lights so the leads should be ok for now.

Typically i have the leads that has the timing pick up on #1 lead so they are also expensive with a capital "F"

[Laird Scooby]

Thanks Andy - advice duly noted! To be honest i am tempted by the Bremi versions :

https://www.bestpartstore.co.uk/volv...brand%5B%5D=47

These work out at £47 ish including the dreaded VAT, the Bosch stuff comes out at £75 ish and either brand is subject to a flat rate of £8 for shipping :

https://www.bestpartstore.co.uk/volv...brand%5B%5D=30

I've used Bremi in the past without any problems, however the fact the stuff on there is Bosch and has lasted nearly 30 years from registration or 30 years from manufacture is a good reason to go with Bosch again.

However, the genuine Volvo Bosch is lacquered on the inside of the cap (as witnessed by the yellowish colour after cleaning with carb cleaner) and is possibly different in other areas too. That said, i wonder what the genuine Volvo Bosch stuff costs?

The big question is, what brand do you deem as cheap and to be avoided?

[AndysR]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

Thanks Andy - advice duly noted! To be honest i am tempted by the Bremi versions :

https://www.bestpartstore.co.uk/volv...brand%5B%5D=47

These work out at £47 ish including the dreaded VAT, the Bosch stuff comes out at £75 ish and either brand is subject to a flat rate of £8 for shipping :

https://www.bestpartstore.co.uk/volv...brand%5B%5D=30

I've used Bremi in the past without any problems, however the fact the stuff on there is Bosch and has lasted nearly 30 years from registration or 30 years from manufacture is a good reason to go with Bosch again.

However, the genuine Volvo Bosch is lacquered on the inside of the cap (as witnessed by the yellowish colour after cleaning with carb cleaner) and is possibly different in other areas too. That said, i wonder what the genuine Volvo Bosch stuff costs?

The big question is, what brand do you deem as cheap and to be avoided?

I tried scantec and I intermotor.. I now have Bosch and you can tell the quality of the Bosch items... I'm considering changing the leads to Bosch or Bourgicord now...

[Laird Scooby]

Thanks Andy, Intermotor wasn't really on my list anyway for the simple reason i've had a few dodgy caps from them in the past. That said the rotor arms and other stuff they make has generally been ok.

I think in the interests of testing another brand (and also of my wallet!) i'll probably go for the Bremi kit. I've got a Bremi cap and arm on my 1994 827 Sterling and no problems with that at all, in fact the quality is as good as (if not better than) the original that was fitted.

As for the leads, if yours is the same as mine and has the timing pick-up on #1 plug lead it seems the only option is Bougicord as they are the only ones i've found with the sensor/pick-up included.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1916963787...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I did consider building my own leads (as i've done for my 827s) using Ferroflex :

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/8mm-HT-Ign...0AAOSwL7VWkmTL

However by the time i've also bought the connectors, shrouds etc i'm nearly up to the price of the complete set from Bougicord which were OE on mine anyway. That with re-using the old timing pick-up so is a false economy really.

[AndysR]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

Thanks Andy, Intermotor wasn't really on my list anyway for the simple reason i've had a few dodgy caps from them in the past. That said the rotor arms and other stuff they make has generally been ok.

I think in the interests of testing another brand (and also of my wallet!) i'll probably go for the Bremi kit. I've got a Bremi cap and arm on my 1994 827 Sterling and no problems with that at all, in fact the quality is as good as (if not better than) the original that was fitted.

As for the leads, if yours is the same as mine and has the timing pick-up on #1 plug lead it seems the only option is Bougicord as they are the only ones i've found with the sensor/pick-up included.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1916963787...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I did consider building my own leads (as i've done for my 827s) using Ferroflex :

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/8mm-HT-Ign...0AAOSwL7VWkmTL

However by the time i've also bought the connectors, shrouds etc i'm nearly up to the price of the complete set from Bougicord which were OE on mine anyway. That with re-using the old timing pick-up so is a false economy really.

That's fair enough and tbh, the rotor arm looks to be the same as the Bosch one I've just bought so I'm sure it'll be worth the gamble.

Yes mine does have the timing pick up on the number 1 lead the same as yours and Bougicord are the OE supplier for these, I was looking at that same supplier for a replacement for mine, I've got a cheap set on mine ATM at she's become reluctant to start when cold over the last few days, goes flat when accelerating during warm up and wants to die when trying to accelerate from standstill whilst cold so I'm tempted to bite the bulliet and get the genuine OE leads, either that or perhaps the MAF is on its way, I do have a spare so also tempted to switch that and see if it makes a difference.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by AndysR

That's fair enough and tbh, the rotor arm looks to be the same as the Bosch one I've just bought so I'm sure it'll be worth the gamble.

Yes mine does have the timing pick up on the number 1 lead the same as yours and Bougicord are the OE supplier for these, I was looking at that same supplier for a replacement for mine, I've got a cheap set on mine ATM at she's become reluctant to start when cold over the last few days, goes flat when accelerating during warm up and wants to die when trying to accelerate from standstill whilst cold so I'm tempted to bite the bulliet and get the genuine OE leads, either that or perhaps the MAF is on its way, I do have a spare so also tempted to switch that and see if it makes a difference.

You've just described all the symptoms i had with my dizzy cap and rotor arm Andy!
Personally i'd go for the leads first and then try cleaning the MAF second before condemning it.

There's at least one video on YouTube on cleaning them, actually there's loads, just had a look! What i did was just pop it out and give it a good spray both ways with carb cleaner then refitted it except the tube to the air cleaner so i could give it another spray with the engine running.

That cured most of the symptoms you described when i first got the car.

In other news, i finally got the tracking sorted today :



The official spec is 18' +/- 8' and that is near as makes no odds 20' so well within tolerance.
Annoyingly during the "extended" test drive to go and get petrol, it seems like either a wheel bearing or the lower ball joint has collapsed on the O/S/F as it's making a hell of a bang over potholes/bumps and i can wobble the wheel top to bottom - not tried side to side yet which would point more to the ball joint, i'll try that soon. Just tried it and it certainly feels like the ball joint.
I'll have a proper look tomorrow at some (dry) point.

More news, i've ordered a replacement pair of speakers for the front doors from ebay, one sounds like a fight in a crisp factory!

[Rumbo]

More news, i've ordered a replacement pair of speakers for the front doors from ebay, one sounds like a fight in a crisp factory! [/QUOTE]

Sounds like mine too mate,I'm going to check the back of the radio but I might need new speakers like you!

[AndysR]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

You've just described all the symptoms i had with my dizzy cap and rotor arm Andy!
Personally i'd go for the leads first and then try cleaning the MAF second before condemning it.

There's at least one video on YouTube on cleaning them, actually there's loads, just had a look! What i did was just pop it out and give it a good spray both ways with carb cleaner then refitted it except the tube to the air cleaner so i could give it another spray with the engine running.

That cured most of the symptoms you described when i first got the car.

In other news, i finally got the tracking sorted today :



The official spec is 18' +/- 8' and that is near as makes no odds 20' so well within tolerance.
Annoyingly during the "extended" test drive to go and get petrol, it seems like either a wheel bearing or the lower ball joint has collapsed on the O/S/F as it's making a hell of a bang over potholes/bumps and i can wobble the wheel top to bottom - not tried side to side yet which would point more to the ball joint, i'll try that soon. Just tried it and it certainly feels like the ball joint.
I'll have a proper look tomorrow at some (dry) point.

More news, i've ordered a replacement pair of speakers for the front doors from ebay, one sounds like a fight in a crisp factory!

Tell me about it, I thought it had chewed another cap and rotor arm when it did it this morning but after checking it at lunchtime it was still as new, much to my relief..!! I genuinely had images of crushing it!! I'll certainly give the leads a shot but I do also drive 1.5 miles each way to work so it could be coked up a little, did take it for a motorway drive after checking the cap so hopefully it won't give me grief on the way to work tomorrow. I'll certainly look to clean the maf anyway as I'm sure there's some value to doing that, although I was under the impression that carb cleaner left a residue so surely that can't be any good for the maf..?

[Rumbo]

Clean the maf with isopropyl alcohol spray and let it dry before refitting

[Laird Scooby]

That was why i started the engine for the third squirt of carb cleaner, MAFs have a certain amount of self-cleaning especially during use (i think they go into cleaning mode during fuel cut-off i.e. trailing throttle above 1200rpm) where they heat the sensor wires up to burn off deposits.
They don't get rid of all deposits this way, hence the need to periodically clean them.

Rumbo More news, i've ordered a replacement pair of speakers for the front doors from ebay, one sounds like a fight in a crisp factory! [/QUOTE]

Sounds like mine too mate,I'm going to check the back of the radio but I might need new speakers like you!

If it's any help, these are the ones i've ordered for mine :

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2014535710...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

If memory serves correctly the 740 had 4"/10cm jobbies and probably pre-facelift 760s did as well so worth measuring before ordering.

At first glance you can't actually see a problem with my dodgy speaker, only when you wind the sound up a bit and the support ring round the cone deforms slightly at the bottom. Resting a finger on it results in much louder output and no more distortion!