Handbrake cable Grommets

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by rwdkev

None of the 700/900 series (including IRS) have these threaded adjusters on the opposite side of the shoes to the actuating mechanism. If some of you have seen them before then it'll be on 140/164 or 200 series. They were also reintroduced for the 850 but not sure what models after that have them. Why they were left out for the 700/900 is quite beyond me!!

Thanks for the clarification Kev, if i've seen it on a Volvo then it would be the 140 series but that would have errrr years ago but thinking about it, i've seen it more recently than that and it's just occurred to me where - on the Jeep Cherokee i had between my current 760 and my last 740 so sort of explains (bot not excuses!) me getting confused!

Given that most of the time the handbrakes work well enough on the 7/9xx and the fact the handbrake is only used (usually) for parking or once a year at the MoT station in my case the chances of it going out of adjustment are pretty small. Something less to go wrong so fair play to Volvo for omitting it on the 7/9xx in my book!

[Dirty Rooster]

Today I made a few experimental "cable shorteners" which I will try tomorrow morning at the garage.

Wish me luck.

[Dirty Rooster]

Originally Posted by Ian21401

Was the handbrake more or less equal before the replacement cable? .

No. The right side was weak for a year, then failed completely,
hence replacement.

I shall study the gubbins on the left for compensational possibilities before applying my new devices *muhahahaha*

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Dirty Rooster

No. The right side was weak for a year, then failed completely,
hence replacement.

I shall study the gubbins on the left for compensational possibilities before applying my new devices *muhahahaha*

That does point to the compensator/balance mechanism on the axle housing stopping the R/H cable moving. Or possibly, it's moving but not enough or in the right place.

It could even be it's the L/H cable has stratched so it's getting tight enough to operate the L/H brake but not enough tension in the cable to pull the R/H at the same time.

[Ian21401]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

That does point to the compensator/balance mechanism on the axle housing stopping the R/H cable moving. Or possibly, it's moving but not enough or in the right place.

It could even be it's the L/H cable has stratched so it's getting tight enough to operate the L/H brake but not enough tension in the cable to pull the R/H at the same time.

That’s what I was thinking when I suggested watching underneath whilst handbrake being operated.

[Dirty Rooster]

After spraying and wiggling the left gubbins and checking the right brake's internal pivot stuff, cleaning etc
I fitted a sturdy plastic grommet and rejoined everything.

The split-pin bit was easier to fit today, so something's become more free in that area.
I'm letting various sealant reinforcements dry overnight, cracking on with it tomorrow.

All the help has been helpful, thanks fellas.

[Dirty Rooster]

Thanks for all the help,
passed MOT.
Handbrake's not completely even yet but good enough,
I shall carry on tweaking it.

[Ian21401]

I don’t know whether you are one of the people who hardly ever actually apply the handbrake. I subscribe to the view that using it regularly not only prevents things seizing up, it becomes apparent when something is not quite right.
On the other hand. I use my handbrake regularly. When car is parked on our drive, which has a slight slope, I leave car in a gear opposite to the slope but still apply the handbrake. When about to pull off the drive I release the handbrake whilst still having the clutch depressed just to ascertain whether the handbrake is releasing correctly. If it is the car will roll down the drive. It only takes a moment. In the recent past, all of the above was normal but the car had developed a rattle when the rear wheels were going over speed humps in our local Asda car park. An inspection underneath revealed that the A frame part of the compensator gubbins which attaches to the bracket on the axle casing had disappeared so the compensator was rattling against the axle casing. If it had not rattled I would not have become aware of the missing item until the next rear brake inspection/service.

[Laird Scooby]

I rarely if ever use my handbrakes Ian. There is a school of thought that says if you don't use it, it won't wear out or have other problems and then there is another that if you don't use it, it will seize up.

In practice, once every 3-4 months i check it's working as it should be, other than that, i don't use it except forthe MoT test and occasionally if i need to jack the car up.

It could be argued that if you didn't use yours so often, the A frame wouldn't have been subject to bending and moving and not broken.

The flip-side is it could have rotted through and fallen off and you'd have been none the wiser until the MoT or next brake check as you point out.

[Ian21401]

Dave,
I prefer my method, you prefer yours and we are each happy with the method we use. So be it.
Curious thing about the missing A frame on mine was, the whole thing had disappeared, A frame, clevis pin and split pin yet the bracket welded to the axle tube was and is still sound. I would have thought that if the A frame had simply corroded and broken, some part, the clevis pin or the split pin or the part of the A frame attached by either of those would have still been present. It was as if I had removed it and forgotten to replace it. Which I know I had not.