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Clutch fork gaiterViews : 645 Replies : 4Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Jul 7th, 2019, 12:20 | #1 |
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Clutch fork gaiter
1969 two door, cable clutch.
I’m replacing the clutch and pilot bearing and I thought it might be smart to replace the useless clutch gaiter at the same time (see the attached for the old one). I thought that this would be a simple job, but I’m confused about how or if to attach the new clutch fork gaiter to the bell housing. There is a “frame” around the opening that looks like it is intended to secure the gaiter in place. If I do attach it I’m not sure that there will be enough flexibility in the dust cover / gaiter to allow the fork to move. I just assumed that the gaiter fits on the outside of the bell housing, but it could equally fit inside the bell housing. Feeling pretty dumb for not being able to figure out something so simple. Green books and Haynes haven’t helped. The old gaiter was as good as useless and wasn’t secured. I’d like to do a good job. Can anyone set me straight on how to fit this please? Thanks, Ed |
Jul 11th, 2019, 13:31 | #2 |
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Ed;
Replacement Clutch Fork Gaiter is simply pushed onto Fork (obviously before attachment of Clutch Cable), beyond the step (visible in Pic 2), which holds it in place (with a slight preload into Bellhousing, thus affecting a dustseal...it looks like you have a slight mismatch, with an earlier Gaiter (not secured to Bellhousing), and a later BH...where the Phillips screws visible, secured the Gaiter...I'd remove those screws to simply let the Gaiter slide along the flat surface as it moves along with Fork)...from last picture, it looks like the Gaiter needs to be pushed home just a bit more, beyond that step...nothing more complicated than that, but I think the mismatch will still work fine... Unfortunately, that step is also a stress riser where fractures of the Fork start...as seen here SW-EM page on Clutch fork: https://www.sw-em.com/Clutch_-_cable_actuated_Notes.htm Please take a picture of the Gaiter beyond that step in Fork and in its proper, final position, and with your permission and attribution, I'll add it to the article as reference info. Cheers Last edited by Ron Kwas; Jul 11th, 2019 at 13:41. |
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Jul 11th, 2019, 21:23 | #3 |
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Ron,
Welcome back. Many thanks for the excellent advice. I’ll follow your instructions and take a photo in the next few days. Ed |
Jul 13th, 2019, 01:31 | #4 |
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I had the exact same issue with my 69 2 door. I removed the retaining frame ( held onto the bell housing with the 4 screws) and pushed the gaiter up to the bell housing. I then slipped the retaining frame over the new gaiter and used the upper right and lower left screws to hold the frame over the new gaiter as they just clear. You could also drill holes in the gaiter to accept the other 2 screws if you wish.
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Jul 22nd, 2019, 13:58 | #5 |
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Updated photos
Finally got round to taking updated photos.
Ron, there are two photos with the gaiter pushed into place after removing the retaining frame thus allowing the cover to slide. Let me know if you would like larger versions or different angles. JP, your idea could work. However, when I implemented it (3rd and 4th photos) it looked like the gaiter could “wrinkle” depending on how much travel there is in the clutch arm when fully installed. I’m going to leave the retaining frame off for now and re-inspect after driving for a while. Ed |
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