1800: 73 es starter

[rainflye]

Bought a starter with the correct Volvo part # (240360) but the mounting flange holes are threaded not thru holes. Has anyone installed this type? Will the existing bolts work? Don't want to take things apart and not be able to install the new one...I like driving the thing to much!!



Thanks



Craig

[Burdekin]

Hi Craig,

I put a 940 starter in mine and is a great upgrade, this is what I wrote on my thread:

My old starter had two 7/16 bolts with nuts holding it, so neither holes in the flange of my old starter were threaded which the 940 is I think. The original bolts were too short due to the thicker flange on the 940 starter. I bought two 7/16 4-1/2" UNF (couldn't find UNC) bolts with nuts from ebay, they could be a little shorter if needed but the original bolts I could only get one thread on the nut with the new starter in place. If your old bolts are pretty flush with the end of the nuts you will need longer bolts, easy check. They only need to be another 1/2" longer. I drilled both threaded holes out in the new starter flange to 1/2" or 12mm (can't remember which).

[paul staines]

Originally Posted by Khe Sanh

Hi Craig,

I put a 940 starter in mine and is a great upgrade, this is what I wrote on my thread:

My old starter had two 7/16 bolts with nuts holding it, so neither holes in the flange of my old starter were threaded which the 940 is I think. The original bolts were too short due to the thicker flange on the 940 starter. I bought two 7/16 4-1/2" UNF (couldn't find UNC) bolts with nuts from ebay, they could be a little shorter if needed but the original bolts I could only get one thread on the nut with the new starter in place. If your old bolts are pretty flush with the end of the nuts you will need longer bolts, easy check. They only need to be another 1/2" longer. I drilled both threaded holes out in the new starter flange to 1/2" or 12mm (can't remember which).

Hi Also interested in upgrading starter motor. Have seen one on ebay .Fits 940 kombi1990-1994 . 960 1990-1994. 240 1974-1993. It`s a Lucas LRS661.
only £33.74 with free postage. Listed as New / Remanufactured . Would be a stroke of luck if this fits. Mine`s a B18b engine. Regards Paul

[swedishandgerman]

Direct drive starter for me every time! Normally one for keeping things standard, a starter sourced from a 940 has so many benefits. Although not a bolt in change, it's very easy

It's a lot lighter, it draws significantly less current from the battery resulting in more current available at the coil and they crank faster too. Even a car left for a good few weeks starts up so much better

Last time I was at Formula Cars in Wellington, Somerset I noticed he had a few 940's in his graveyard

They fit any red block Volvo

[volvogv]

I had the same problem but the bolts were able to engage the threads and hold it snugly. You will love the new starter because it cranks over much faster than the old OEM starter. Makes hot starting easier. Mike

[paul staines]

Would like to buy one of these , new or reconditioned. Is there a part number that I can search for or are all 940 starters the same for all years and models ?
Regards Paul.

[Derek UK]

There are a lot of loose ends and odd details about this starter change and it would be good to get them all correct and into a definitive FAQ/method.
Craig the OP has also asked this question on the Yahoo 1800 forum and there is also one currently on Brickboard asking the same for an ES but under a different name. After a while "facts" start to emerge....... sort of.
For instance, I made a comment on a similar thread on Brickboard about 3 years ago about using an socket headed bolt on the top fitting when using this starter and that got a positive nod. It's not a new modification.
The smaller, lighter "Permag" starter started on the 240 and was used right up to the 940 at least in the 4 cylinder cars. This starter isn't a gear reduction starter, there may be one but I don't know a number for it. It is more efficient and does seem to run faster though. "Permag" is for the permanent magnets that surround the armature rather than the heavy, bulky coils of the normal starter. (Don't go banging this starter with a hammer if yours jams, as the magnets can come adrift).
The later starter has 2 threaded holes in the alloy mounting flange rather than plain holes in the thicker cast iron flange of the original which uses plain nuts and bolts, originally 7/16" UNC. Possibly with reduced size heads, 5/16" to enable a socket to be used without fouling the bell housing. Access isn't easy with either starter. These original bolts appear to fit the new starter but it's threads are 12mm, similar, but different thread shape. They will tighten but will always have some play in them and can loosen, so use 12mm. Alternately drill out the threaded holes in the starter and use the original bolts. Due to the thinner flange you'll probably need a few washers to make up the difference. Note comment above re using an socket headed bolt on the top fixing. Bottom too if you like, but access to that one is easier.
Electrical connections to the solenoid are the same but there is an extra tag in the new one which I believe can be used if you are swapping over to Pertronix or similar without having to use a diode in the circuit. Ron, where are you, I help needed with that one.
Brookhouse list this type of starter for all red blocks including B18/20. They also say to use bolts #987019 x 2. I can't find this number in the Volvo fasteners list or either of 2 alternatives, but believe it's probably 12mm x 100mm long.
Coincidently, the day before this thread was started I tried to mock up a 240 starter on the B18B I recently bought from a forum member. I'd been sorting out a set of bolts to enable the engine to be mounted on an engine stand. The 7/16" UNC starter bolts can be used for the 2 top ones that usually mount the bell housing and also one of the lower ones on the carb side. I needed a longer bolt with nut for the one that goes through one of the starter mounts. Measured up what I needed and had a search around at Beaulieu in September. Sorry we don't do any UNC bolts that long so like Mitch bought one with UNF threads. No problem but it still ended up being too short so I still have to find a longer one. Also need another standard 7/16" starter bolt if someone has a spare one (or two). It was out of this bolt searching that I gave the 240 starter a try but I haven't tried it yet with a bell housing in place.
Comments on the above welcome, additions and corrections also welcome.

[davidw6092]

I have just fitted a 740 starter to the B18 engine that is going into the 61 4 door that I am recommissioning.I used M12 bolts 100 mm long with a 1.75 thread pitch.They are a tight fit through the bellhousing,I think they are slightly larger diameter than the originals,and probabaly over 50 years of corrosion.a round file and a bit of emery made fitting easier.When fitting the starter in situ it is not possible to get the top bolt in as it is too tight to the bulkhead,maybe dropping the gearbox at the back may help.As a bit of a bodge (or non factory approved permanent repair!) A length of studded rod could be screwed into the starter top hole and a nut used on the bellhousing side.

[Derek UK]

Thanks David for the feedback. It confirms the 12mm x 100mmlong bolts. Also confirms that using a socket headed, Allen, bolt for the top one might be the way to go. Fancy giving that a try? I have some studding but found it was 10mm so no good for this job. Inexpensive from Wickes. Eric on the Brickboard thread ran a modified 12mm drill through the bell housing via an adaptor with a power tool of some sort. Said that's not easy with the engine in situ. As you say, a bit of file work would probably fix it.

On another thread, details of your high mount alternator would be interesting........

[swedishandgerman]

Originally Posted by davidw6092

A length of studded rod could be screwed into the starter top hole and a nut used on the bellhousing side.

That's exactly what I did and it's absolutely fine. However, I put a nut either side. It's the same thread as the 940 starter with about 20mm proud of the starter that I put a nut with washer on to lock it. Then, I put the starter on and put a suitable nut with washer on to tighten it nicely to the bellhousing. I widened the hole in the bellhousing a bit with a round file so that the threaded rod would fit through; this was awkward, but very do-able. I appreciate that it may not look very pretty if you were able to climb into the engine bay and get close enough to look at it (!!) but it overcomes the problem of limited access.