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PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General Forum for the Volvo PV, 120 and 1800 cars

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Wanted Distributor B20B Engine

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Old Sep 18th, 2018, 16:24   #11
swedishandgerman
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The funny thing is have not got it to ping yet. Even when I had it at 20 degrees at idle and revved it up.
I was just having a think about that and the range your distributor has. I would say that it has an advance range of 25 degs. I would personally set the max advance to 40 degs, then see what it's like. That should give you about 15 degs at idle, maybe a bit less. As I say, most Amazons full advance are 40 in the book, though many run on about 38 with modern fuel (low octane regular unleaded).

All said, I'm pretty confident your running on problem is fuelling. I have no knowledge of Weber, but surely you can adjust the float height or needle height, no? Then perhaps there's a separate screw adjuster for trimming the mixture?

What happens if you unscrew the mixture screw? Better or worse?!
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Old Sep 18th, 2018, 16:39   #12
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I runs rougher either way I go on the screw. The manual says ideal is 1 1/2 turns out. I need it to be 3/4-1 turn to sound correct. If I turn it out it will run rougher. So in that case the mixture screw is working. This is a really bad run on. It will knock and kick for 15-20 seconds and then light up and run for 15-20 seconds or more.
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Old Sep 18th, 2018, 19:00   #13
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Sounds as if your idle jet is too large. If for example, if it is a 60, try a 50 or 55. I'd start with a 50.
The idle screw should be very close to 1 1/2 turns out if the idle jet is correct. Less means too big and more means too small.
The Weber idle circuit affects the mixture up to about half throttle so is critical.
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Old Sep 18th, 2018, 19:41   #14
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Right now the idle jets are 60/50 60 being on passenger side next to mixture screw. I flipped them around and that changed everything. Now screwing the idle mix in kills it. But screwing it out does not help much. I am getting carb backfire now. I am on my way to pick up two 55's. I will try that. That is what the diagram said was stock. All the other jets are stock.
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Old Sep 19th, 2018, 09:57   #15
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As a matter of interest does the timing have any effect on engine temp'? For example will an over advanced timing cause the engine to run hot? I know that a weak mixture would do that.
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Old Sep 19th, 2018, 09:59   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lelshaddai View Post
Right now the idle jets are 60/50 60 being on passenger side next to mixture screw. I flipped them around and that changed everything. Now screwing the idle mix in kills it. But screwing it out does not help much. I am getting carb backfire now. I am on my way to pick up two 55's. I will try that. That is what the diagram said was stock. All the other jets are stock.
Save yourself a lot of problems and fit SUs!
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Old Sep 19th, 2018, 16:03   #17
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I am having trouble with overheating in general. However in the cars defense, while I was driving here yesterday it was 40.6C/105F. I do think she runs a bit cooler now that the timing is at 10 Degrees instead of 16. I will find out today if the new jets help in cooling her down. I game to switch carbs but I would need the manifold as well.
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Old Sep 19th, 2018, 20:06   #18
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Inserted the 55 jets and timed to 10 and idle 800 all like specs say. So far so good. No carb backfire. Have not driven it long enough to test run on but will later. It started to ran.
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Old Sep 21st, 2018, 05:06   #19
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Took her on a long drive in town and freeway. Never felt better. No hesitation, no run on, no backfire out of carb. No stuttering. The correct jets seemed to have done the trick, was 96 degrees today and she ran just over half on temp. She is set at 10 degrees and 780 rpm. Thanks for the suggestions. She goes to a 4 day show next week. 550 cars up in the mountains. She will be in the foreign sports car class. Hey, it says sport on her.
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