B20 build - Page 5

Amazonjulian · Jan 1st, 2016, 17:30

It's nice and cosy building an engine in doors. Conservatory beats garage hands down at this time of year. Made a paper pattern to go over the distributor drive hole so that I could get the drive slot spot on at 35 degrees. Also trial fitted my front pulley and timing cover and used a dial gauge to get a spot on tdc for marking up my new aluminium pulley. Three Pistons in now and simon trying to get me rings for the fourth. Noticed that the new big end shells are significantly wider than the old ones.

volvogv · Jan 2nd, 2016, 15:12

Very nice work!

Amazonjulian · Jan 7th, 2016, 18:42

Replacing those missing rings has been harder than I thought but Fredrik at KG Triming has come up with the goods and has sold me the rings for one piston.
I wanted to check a couple of other things out with you gents if I may.
My plan was to stick with the original exhaust manifold... I know people say they are pretty good but I'm open to ideas. Have any of you fitted a tubular manifold and if so would you recommend it and where would you buy it from?
Secondly, it's some years since I did a complet engine build like this. When I did, I put a thin smear of grease on the head gasket before fitting it. Is this still the way to go? I noticed my new gasket has a slightly sticky surface in any case.
I'd be glad of thoughts on these points. Cheers Julian

Hat · Jan 7th, 2016, 19:42

Leave the gasket as is, nothing else needed.

I was going to leave my manifold, but the sealing edge was too far gone corrosion wise, so went with Simons right the way through, so far so good.

Check the head bolt clearance too, make sure the bolt holes are clean, the tolerance is quite tight.

Derek UK · Jan 7th, 2016, 20:31

As long as it's not one of the emissions type manifolds with the extra butterflies etc the combined cast iron one for the B20 is excellent up to about 145bhp with your existing SU's. Although I'm sure that Fredrik would be happy to sell you a 4-2-1 manifold I think he would also agree that the there would be no improvement on a modest standard engine. With a price of £150-250 for the manifold I think that you can find something better to spend the money on. It would pay for your lead free head conversion for a start.

classicswede · Jan 7th, 2016, 20:34

To give advice on what the best tubular manifold would be I need to know a bit more about the engine spec. What cam and what headwork has been done also what carburation does it have.

Also are you looking for power high up the rev band or more low down power?

The twin outlet cast manifold is not bad but a tubular manifold does offer some gain

Amazonjulian · Jan 7th, 2016, 20:57

Thanks for your thoughts. Derek - I'm not expecting more than 145 BHP. Dai it's a 2130 cc engine with a KG 10 camshaft and a B20 e head which has had some work improving the CFM by 9%. I'm not into spending money for its sake but given the effort I've gone to, I don't want to miss any tricks this close to the finish. If there's little improvement to be had over the cast iron, I'll happily stick with it.

classicswede · Jan 7th, 2016, 21:03

Fitting a free flowing exhaust makes a massive differnce. The manifold just give that tiny bit extra

For high rpm power use the 4-1 manifold

For better low down and mid range go with a 4-2-1

The main reason I use the tubular manifolds is to reduce exhaust noise and stop the popping on overrun you get withthe cast manifold

For mild steel you are looking at spending £200 -250 or around £350 for stainless

tdz840 · Jan 7th, 2016, 21:20

Quote:

Originally Posted by Amazonjulian

Replacing those missing rings has been harder than I thought but Fredrik at KG Triming has come up with the goods and has sold me the rings for one piston.
I wanted to check a couple of other things out with you gents if I may.
My plan was to stick with the original exhaust manifold... I know people say they are pretty good but I'm open to ideas. Have any of you fitted a tubular manifold and if so would you recommend it and where would you buy it from?
Secondly, it's some years since I did a complet engine build like this. When I did, I put a thin smear of grease on the head gasket before fitting it. Is this still the way to go? I noticed my new gasket has a slightly sticky surface in any case.
I'd be glad of thoughts on these points. Cheers Julian

I bought a KG Trimning 4-2-1 from Skandix. Yhey have two versions and mine had the larger primaries/secondary's.
Well made, reasonsble cost and reputedly one of the better manifolds.
Does have nice bends with no necking
Its been on for 7 years and have had no issues.
I like KG stuff snd Frederik is very helpful.
Russ

davidw6092 · Jan 8th, 2016, 06:18

If you do stick with the cast manifold make sure the mating surface is flat and true.They tend to bow a little after time and can blow manifold gaskets.Its difficult to find someone with a large enough linishing machine to flatten it,but a large sheet of coarse emery on some plate glass will do,though time consuming.

Jan 7th, 2016, 20:34	#46
classicswede Trader Volvo in my veins Last Online: Today 00:23 Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Anglesey	To give advice on what the best tubular manifold would be I need to know a bit more about the engine spec. What cam and what headwork has been done also what carburation does it have. Also are you looking for power high up the rev band or more low down power? The twin outlet cast manifold is not bad but a tubular manifold does offer some gain __________________ http://www.classicswede.org www.classicswede.co.uk

Jan 7th, 2016, 21:03	#48
classicswede Trader Volvo in my veins Last Online: Today 00:23 Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Anglesey	Fitting a free flowing exhaust makes a massive differnce. The manifold just give that tiny bit extra For high rpm power use the 4-1 manifold For better low down and mid range go with a 4-2-1 The main reason I use the tubular manifolds is to reduce exhaust noise and stop the popping on overrun you get withthe cast manifold For mild steel you are looking at spending £200 -250 or around £350 for stainless __________________ http://www.classicswede.org www.classicswede.co.uk

Jan 2nd, 2016, 15:12	#42
volvogv Master Member Last Online: Aug 29th, 2016 19:28 Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Seattle	Very nice work!

Jan 7th, 2016, 18:42	#43
Amazonjulian Master Member Last Online: May 8th, 2019 07:02 Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Steyning	Replacing those missing rings has been harder than I thought but Fredrik at KG Triming has come up with the goods and has sold me the rings for one piston. I wanted to check a couple of other things out with you gents if I may. My plan was to stick with the original exhaust manifold... I know people say they are pretty good but I'm open to ideas. Have any of you fitted a tubular manifold and if so would you recommend it and where would you buy it from? Secondly, it's some years since I did a complet engine build like this. When I did, I put a thin smear of grease on the head gasket before fitting it. Is this still the way to go? I noticed my new gasket has a slightly sticky surface in any case. I'd be glad of thoughts on these points. Cheers Julian

Jan 7th, 2016, 19:42	#44
Hat Senior Member Last Online: Feb 18th, 2017 15:16 Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: essex	Leave the gasket as is, nothing else needed. I was going to leave my manifold, but the sealing edge was too far gone corrosion wise, so went with Simons right the way through, so far so good. Check the head bolt clearance too, make sure the bolt holes are clean, the tolerance is quite tight.

Jan 7th, 2016, 20:31	#45
Derek UK VOC Member Last Online: Yesterday 14:22 Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Chatham	As long as it's not one of the emissions type manifolds with the extra butterflies etc the combined cast iron one for the B20 is excellent up to about 145bhp with your existing SU's. Although I'm sure that Fredrik would be happy to sell you a 4-2-1 manifold I think he would also agree that the there would be no improvement on a modest standard engine. With a price of £150-250 for the manifold I think that you can find something better to spend the money on. It would pay for your lead free head conversion for a start.

Jan 7th, 2016, 20:57	#47
Amazonjulian Master Member Last Online: May 8th, 2019 07:02 Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Steyning	Thanks for your thoughts. Derek - I'm not expecting more than 145 BHP. Dai it's a 2130 cc engine with a KG 10 camshaft and a B20 e head which has had some work improving the CFM by 9%. I'm not into spending money for its sake but given the effort I've gone to, I don't want to miss any tricks this close to the finish. If there's little improvement to be had over the cast iron, I'll happily stick with it.

Jan 8th, 2016, 06:18	#50
davidw6092 Senior Member Last Online: Oct 4th, 2023 06:43 Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Banbury	If you do stick with the cast manifold make sure the mating surface is flat and true.They tend to bow a little after time and can blow manifold gaskets.Its difficult to find someone with a large enough linishing machine to flatten it,but a large sheet of coarse emery on some plate glass will do,though time consuming.

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