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Hunting and intermittent cutting out

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Old Jun 12th, 2019, 14:09   #1
Higgy240
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Default Hunting and intermittent cutting out

Hi, I'm having a little trouble with my volvo 240 gl estate, it's a 1986 with a 2.3 carb b230k. It hunts a little on idle and sometimes cuts out for less than a split second and gives the mounts a right good thrashing! when fairly heavy on the throttle. I think it happens more so when hot and going uphill?? Can any body help or point me in the direction of a similar post? The egr manifold is blowing. I recently put a higher temp thermostat in but can't see what odds that would make. No vac hoses appear to split as I have sprayed easy start around all areas and no rise in revs. I'm not going to lie the whole intake is looking shabby. Its the 631 head and I hope to swap out the whole engine someday.
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Old Jun 13th, 2019, 02:09   #2
anilv
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HI Higgy,

I believe rock-steady idle is not the strong point of carburetted Volvos.

Things you might want to check.

1. Plugs. Are they in good condition? is any one different from the others? They need to burn equally so one that is different from the rest will lead to poor idle.

2. Plug wires. These degrade and poor connections may lead to poor idling. Also if one wire is bad it may cause the plug for that cylinder to be different from the rest. Check that the wire from the coil seats fully as well.

3. Dist cap..is it in good condition.. One way to check is to observe the engine in darness (very dark). You may see arcing across the dist cap.

4. Check all the hoses coming to and from the carb.. follow vacuum line to ensure no leaks. I have no problems pulling the vac lines off, putting it in my mouth and seeing if they hold vacuum. I use wet wipes to get most of the crud off.

5. Fuel filter good? Might be worth checking. SHops have pressure testers but I just disconnect the hose to the carb at the fuel pump and fit another hose (leading to a container) and crank the engine.. if a steady spurt comes out then the pump is good. If a weak stream then either the pump is bad, filter is clogged or the tank outlet is clogged. It could even be the metal line from back to front is bent, reducing flow.

6. Strong spark? Check with the engine cold and hot. Sometimes coils go bad and the spark gets weak. One sign of this is the coil gets hot. Its ok if the coil is warm or at least as hot as the surrounding parts but it should not be really hot that you cant touch it for more than a few seconds.

Good luck

Anilv

Last edited by anilv; Jun 13th, 2019 at 02:29.
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Old Jun 13th, 2019, 08:02   #3
Clifford Pope
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"The egr manifold is blowing."

The Exhaust Gas Recirculation system consists of a steel pipe running round the back of the engine, recirculating exhaust gas from a tapping on the exhaust manifold round to a valve on the inlet manifold.

Which bit is blowing? In my experience, a good few years ago now so I may have this a bit wrong, it could fail at several points. The pipe may have rusted through, or might be blocked, the union at either end may have failed, or the valve may have stopped working or be sticking.
I can't remember what activates the valve - vacuum, temperature, electrical?
But whatever isn't working 100% will be an obvious point to fix.

Alternatively, it could be removed entirely and the end points capped. This is what I did with mine. It provides some very small environmental benefit, but if it's not working properly it's surel;y worse than useless?

The same goes for the Pulsair system system at the front. Fine if it works, an endless cause of running problems if it doesn't. It too can be scrapped.

But remember to block off any holes and pipes you disconnect.
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Old Jun 13th, 2019, 12:45   #4
Higgy240
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Thanks for the replies, I am going down the coil pack route as I have checked all the other possibilities I think. The egr is blowing from that crummy manifold underneath the exhaust manifold. It's happened a few times before and I keep patching with metal putty, I'm just chasing the rust! But I'm going to block it off also but the blow will still need sorting anyway. The solenoid on the intake is vacuum operated.
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Old Jun 13th, 2019, 12:47   #5
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I have 2 inline fuel filters on the feed and return lines, I don't think there is another filter anywhere?
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Old Jun 13th, 2019, 21:07   #6
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If it's a Pierburg/DVG CDSU175 it could be the needle/jet that's at fault. Check the dashpot has sufficient il in it (sewing machine oil or ATF) and, if it hasn't then top it up and see if that makes a difference.
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Old Yesterday, 13:51   #7
Higgy240
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Thanks for that I shall give it a go, it does feel like a carb issue, either over fuelling or something like that because it's whenever you put your foot down it breaks your neck! I'm going to have to change the engine mounts when I've solved the problem it's absolutely shagged them!
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Old Yesterday, 14:50   #8
SwissXC90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Higgy240 View Post
The egr is blowing from that crummy manifold underneath the exhaust manifold. It's happened a few times before and I keep patching with metal putty, I'm just chasing the rust! But I'm going to block it off also but the blow will still need sorting anyway. The solenoid on the intake is vacuum operated.
Be aware that inhibiting or blocking off the EGR or disabling any other part of the emissions controls systems is illegal and an instant MOT fail
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