Thermostat - 87 or 92degree'sC?

[imac]

>no it wont, the stat fitment is depedendant on market both
>are suitable, obviously if your in a cold region a higher
>opening temp wil assist warm up, for intents and purposes it
>wont matter a toss in the uk, (were only talking 5 degrees or
>so for gods sake), why do some think the stat opening temp
>will somehow effect normal engine running temp?

Well, looking at Matts post below it would seem like it does!

Hi

I got my first t-stat 2 years ago from IPD in the US, it was 92d'C and came with the correct seal, cost me 7 quid.

Yes, for my sins, I did purchase a pattern part which did not come with the same kind of seal as the one I bought 2 years ago. Both t-stats have the 'failsafe' valve just like Volvo original.

My new t-stat is rated 87d'C and does warm up quicker and runs slightly cooler than the old one, if the guage is anything to go by. I reckon the old T-stat wasn't opening all the way so allowing the car to run hotter.

I agree though, a few degree's temp difference probably won't make much difference to how it runs.
Matt

[imac]

>I agree though, a few degree's temp difference probably won't
>make much difference to how it runs.

Hi Matt,

I'm not in any way looking to make the car run cooler for any other reason than having the needle in its rightful place (dead on 3'o clock!)

Car runs absolutely fine, but I drive two other T5's and they sit bang on 3'o clock, and whenever my eye wanders down and I see my needle slighly above centre I have a split-second moment of panic thinking that its starting to overheat!!!

I panic as well, once the thermostat on my 81 maestro failed to open and boiled the cylinder head. It all happenned so quickly! So i change t-stats every two years with fresh coolant.

Matt

[ShadeTek]

I read somewhere the opening temperature of t-stats can vary ±5°C anyhow. So there's no need for all the fuss.

very true shadek, this notion that a thermostat that opens a 5c degrees sooner is going to effect your normal coolant temp is rubbish as our cars are designed to operate with a normal water temp of around 97c both stats are fully open any how so the only difference would be a very slight increase in warm up time if your coooling system is working correctly the temp gauge should sit bang in the middle, get there rapidly and not move

Would I be right in saying that if the thermostat was in the open position all the time that the engine would run cold all the time? mine never gets near the three o'clock position enjoyed by all my other volvos, hence output from heater is poor, only had the car five weeks so still testing!
Another question, how easy is it to purchase the 40mm torque tool required to remove the two bolts and is it correct that I dont have to drain cooling system to change thermostat? (wouldnt water just pour out from engine housing once thermostat has been removed? have no problem clamping expansion hose but just wondered what else could go wrong!)
Not sure if I should try it myself with a europart therm or pay someone, sadly I do not know any decent mechanics in my area having just moved.
Your help would be much appreciated.
Tim

[sholtby]

Tim,

You need a new thermostat and while you are at it also replace the temperature sensor. You can get both from ECP but their thermostat seals are rubbish. I reused mine without any problems but as with most seals its best to replace them.
Most good tool shops will have the torque tool. I used one on a 3/8 ratchet but I think it was tight getting it to fit and its been a long time but I think the bolts were very tight.
I just drained some water out the radiator using the tap on the bottom passenger side. You could just undo the thermostat housing and let the coolant run out but it will run into the alternator.


Simon

[warthog]

Hi Tim,

'stat replacement is easy and cheap to do. If you're not getting to temp. then you definately need to sort sooner rather than later.

I take it you have a suitable torque wrench, because you need one if you're working on alloy engines. The 40 Torx driver should be readily available in most car accessory / tool shops. You are likely to only loose a pint or so of coolant when you lift off the 'stat cover, this can be easily replaced via the expansion tank afterwards - don't bother clamping hoses - you invite more trouble than you prevent.

GSF or Europart thermostats are fine - don't forget to make sure you have the rubber gasket that goes with it.

Cheers

well thanks to both sholtby and warthog for the advice and taking the time to reply..
just one more thing, nobody has mentioned getting a therm from a Volvo main dealer, are they really that much more expensive? was just thinking that with the problems with seals not fitting it just may work out cheaper in the long run... any thoughts??
Tim