Electrical: - Simultaneous 240 temp and fuel gauge problems PLEASE HELP!

zagatoman · Dec 2nd, 2011, 16:15

Hi all,

still having simultaneous problems with my temperature gauge and fuel gauge showing low readings, even when the car is run for some time with plenty of fuel. They both move a small amount.

I have had some great advice from others on the forum suggesting it could be the voltage stabilizer. I have been given three voltage stabilizers by Bob the parts chap at Braydon Motors, thanks Bob, and fitted them one after the other and still no readings. The parts were second hand but I wouldn't have thought all three were kaput, I thought at least one would have worked.

Henrick suggested the problem could be a ground problem, what would I have to ground on the cluster? do I ground the metal that the voltage stabilizer is screwed onto?

This is driving me nuts, just want it sorted, might have to resort to fitting a second hand cluster that I know works. Anyone got a cluster going cheep? my car is a 1991 SE 2.3i Estate.

All suggestions would be grateful.

Paul

vjck_uk · Dec 3rd, 2011, 17:44

yes earth the part that bolts to the plate in the pic duff earths cause all sorts of strange things as components coplete the circuit through something that runs in parrelell with it

morsing · Dec 3rd, 2011, 18:04

The ground for the instrument cluster is on the left side of the transmission tunnel, just by the front, left corner of the gear lever cover.

If your speedometer and rev counter is ok, the ground might not be the problem after all.

240 · Dec 4th, 2011, 17:56

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/volvo-240-...item27c0edf5b8

chesters6 · Dec 5th, 2011, 10:10

how would (could?) a person install that cluster into a carb version car with a clock instead of the rev counter?
the rev counter version is more useful

Clan · Dec 5th, 2011, 10:17

measure the voltage on the 3 pins with a multimeter connected to the body as ground ,
you should have nothing on one pin ( ground )
12v on another pin ( input ) and 10volts or thereabouts on the third pin ( feed to gauges ) do this test first to determine which way to go next ..

Clifford Pope · Dec 6th, 2011, 13:22

Quote:

Originally Posted by chesters6

how would (could?) a person install that cluster into a carb version car with a clock instead of the rev counter?
the rev counter version is more useful

It's very easy, the wiring is all there ready. I swapped in a tachometer from a scrap 1986 GL into a 1989 DL - both with carbs. I can't remember the details, but there is an unused dangling wire behind the dashboard on the clock version (yellow?) which just needs to be connected to the new tacho.

Then the small clock fits in the blank space just to the left, with its short extension leads running from the old clock power point.

Someone will know the details - I just worked it out from the Haynes wiring diagrams and by comparing the two cars.

Michael J · Dec 6th, 2011, 13:36

I did the same with a tacho from a C-reg into my F-reg DL.

Remove cluster, take out large clock, replace it with tacho (and its little blanking peg), connect red/white signal wire that is already there behind the dash to back of tacho, fit small clock kit with its wiring harness if you wish (plugs onto three-pin outlet on back of tacho), refit cluster etc.

lynns hubby · Dec 6th, 2011, 14:29

Quote:

Originally Posted by zagatoman

Hi all,

I have had some great advice from others on the forum suggesting it could be the voltage stabilizer. I have been given three voltage stabilizers by Bob the parts chap at Braydon Motors, thanks Bob, and fitted them one after the other and still no readings. The parts were second hand but I wouldn't have thought all three were kaput, I thought at least one would have worked.

All suggestions would be grateful.

Paul

For what its worth Paul, I had the same problem with one of my 240s a few years back and I tried 4 second hand (from breakers) before I got one to work. I found a way to test them but I cant remember how now. It seems so long ago I had a 240. At least you can change them by feeling for them and not pulling dash out.

brodgar · Dec 6th, 2011, 16:39

beat advice was to take the voltmeter out an d test it.

THERE IS NO GUARENTEE ON THE ONES YOU GOT FROM BRAyDONS, they might all be 15 years plus old. and all suffer from the same problem.

Or get one on loan from somebodys car where it was guarenteed working.

basic fault tracing and eliminating. Tedious work, alas

Dec 2nd, 2011, 16:15	#1
zagatoman Junior Member Last Online: Sep 23rd, 2012 12:58 Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Sutton	Simultaneous 240 temp and fuel gauge problems PLEASE HELP! Hi all, still having simultaneous problems with my temperature gauge and fuel gauge showing low readings, even when the car is run for some time with plenty of fuel. They both move a small amount. I have had some great advice from others on the forum suggesting it could be the voltage stabilizer. I have been given three voltage stabilizers by Bob the parts chap at Braydon Motors, thanks Bob, and fitted them one after the other and still no readings. The parts were second hand but I wouldn't have thought all three were kaput, I thought at least one would have worked. Henrick suggested the problem could be a ground problem, what would I have to ground on the cluster? do I ground the metal that the voltage stabilizer is screwed onto? This is driving me nuts, just want it sorted, might have to resort to fitting a second hand cluster that I know works. Anyone got a cluster going cheep? my car is a 1991 SE 2.3i Estate. All suggestions would be grateful. Paul __________________ 1991 Volvo 240 SE Estate 2.3i Last edited by zagatoman; Dec 2nd, 2011 at 18:40.

Dec 3rd, 2011, 17:44	#2
vjck_uk Premier member Last Online: Jul 29th, 2017 15:54 Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: southern edge of birmingham	yes earth the part that bolts to the plate in the pic duff earths cause all sorts of strange things as components coplete the circuit through something that runs in parrelell with it __________________ If all else fails........read the instructions !

Dec 3rd, 2011, 18:04	#3
morsing Premier Member Last Online: May 7th, 2024 13:09 Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Aylesbury View Photos By: morsing	The ground for the instrument cluster is on the left side of the transmission tunnel, just by the front, left corner of the gear lever cover. If your speedometer and rev counter is ok, the ground might not be the problem after all. __________________ --- '89 Volvo 240GLT B230E/AW70 '14 Volvo V70 SE D4/M66 FWD '70 Chevrolet Chevelle Malibu '95 Saab 9000 CSE 2.0 Turbo Auto

Dec 4th, 2011, 17:56	#4
240 BOB MY BIG OLD BUS Last Online: Jan 15th, 2014 01:06 Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: NORTH EAST	http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/volvo-240-...item27c0edf5b8 __________________ ~ Never, ever, argue with an idiot. They'll drag you down to their level and beat you with experience ~

Dec 5th, 2011, 10:17	#6
Clan Experienced Member Last Online: Yesterday 22:45 Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: L/H side	measure the voltage on the 3 pins with a multimeter connected to the body as ground , you should have nothing on one pin ( ground ) 12v on another pin ( input ) and 10volts or thereabouts on the third pin ( feed to gauges ) do this test first to determine which way to go next .. __________________ My comments are only based on my opinions and vast experience .

Dec 5th, 2011, 10:10	#5
chesters6 Master Member Last Online: Oct 17th, 2012 16:14 Join Date: May 2007 Location: Farnham View Photos By: chesters6	how would (could?) a person install that cluster into a carb version car with a clock instead of the rev counter? the rev counter version is more useful

Dec 6th, 2011, 13:36	#8
Michael J Master Member Last Online: Jan 21st, 2018 16:48 Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Nottingham	I did the same with a tacho from a C-reg into my F-reg DL. Remove cluster, take out large clock, replace it with tacho (and its little blanking peg), connect red/white signal wire that is already there behind the dash to back of tacho, fit small clock kit with its wiring harness if you wish (plugs onto three-pin outlet on back of tacho), refit cluster etc. __________________ rollin' rollin' rollin'

Dec 6th, 2011, 16:39	#10
brodgar I've Been Banned Last Online: Nov 27th, 2012 10:56 Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Forest Row	beat advice was to take the voltmeter out an d test it. THERE IS NO GUARENTEE ON THE ONES YOU GOT FROM BRAyDONS, they might all be 15 years plus old. and all suffer from the same problem. Or get one on loan from somebodys car where it was guarenteed working. basic fault tracing and eliminating. Tedious work, alas

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