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'Low battery' dash warning on 2010 C30 T5

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Old Feb 11th, 2019, 13:39   #11
Markos01
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Just a quick update, the car ran faultlessly over the 200+ miles this weekend (and I kept the sidelights on in the daytime rather than the standard dipped beam to conserve juice too). Will keep an eye on it but with the weather warming I think it'll be OK until next winter perhaps...

As an aside I so wish there was an audible warning to let you know when your lights are on when you exit the car...
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Old Feb 11th, 2019, 14:09   #12
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Why not just replace it for the sake of 80 and not being stranded one day? You'll be good for the next 6+ years then.

The car has told you it's low so it's obviously not holding charge well enough to be deemed as reliable.

It'll be sods law that it'll start every day for months on days you don't 'really' need the car then on that ONE day when you really need to get to the airport or an important meeting, it'll be flat as a pancake

Agree on the sidelights though, something even my girlfriends 2006 Renault Clio has yet my Volvo doesn't....
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Old Feb 11th, 2019, 15:22   #13
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I need to hear that battery struggle before I change it!

(I do also have another ride should this one not start one day )
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Old Feb 11th, 2019, 18:18   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Markos01 View Post
I need to hear that battery struggle before I change it!

(I do also have another ride should this one not start one day )
In my experience they don't struggle, they just don't even try to turn over. Mine was fine up until the first morning it wasn't - no warning, car just wouldn't turn over at all. Can't complain at 8 years from the original Volvo battery.

I keep a booster pack in my car, they only cost 40-50 and mine has got me out of bother a couple of times. Having another car doesn't help you much when it fails to start in a supermarket car park in the ****ing rain at night, or some other awkward situation.

With a booster left in the car you can squeeze every ounce of value out of the current battery though!
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Old Feb 12th, 2019, 10:03   #15
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In my experience they don't struggle, they just don't even try to turn over. Mine was fine up until the first morning it wasn't - no warning, car just wouldn't turn over at all. Can't complain at 8 years from the original Volvo battery.

I keep a booster pack in my car, they only cost 40-50 and mine has got me out of bother a couple of times. Having another car doesn't help you much when it fails to start in a supermarket car park in the ****ing rain at night, or some other awkward situation.

With a booster left in the car you can squeeze every ounce of value out of the current battery though!
Good to know dme123! Will keep you all posted hopefully not from a wet supermarket carpark!
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Old Feb 12th, 2019, 12:56   #16
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My original battery made it to 9 years, just slowly got worse, starter motor sounded 'lazy' but eventually it started flagging faults with the Power Steering during cranking....faults which were logged and stored by the car's ECU's I've just discovered.
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Old Feb 12th, 2019, 21:12   #17
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Jsut replaced my 2010 V50's battery, went from fine to goosed pretty quick, 110 or so for oe batery for a D3, thought that was decent life for original battery, if it was mine i would be testing it and or replacing it
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Old Feb 13th, 2019, 10:06   #18
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Looks like mine might be the original...

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Old Feb 13th, 2019, 10:22   #19
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Top tip from me as an "expert"...

Go and collect new battery, place in boot.

Drive home.

Disconnect old battery.

Go to boot and look confused as the boot won't open electronically.

Realise stupidity

Actually, make sure the car goes to 'sleep' after removing the ignition key there's a period of at least 5 minutes (possibly more) where the ECU is still busy and you don't want to disconnect the battery during this phase. I left mine about 30 mins just to be sure.

Also keep the windows fully closed, keep the doors unlocked, keep the key on you and not in the car. This is purely as a precaution you don't want something to throw a wobbly and lock the key inside the car etc.

I left my drivers window down and then had to 'teach' it the fully closed position again after changing the battery. I noticed if you leave the window closed you don't need to do this.

Other than this you'll only need to reset the clock, nothing else will be affected.
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Old Feb 13th, 2019, 10:53   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Welton View Post
Top tip from me as an "expert"...

Go and collect new battery, place in boot.

Drive home.

Disconnect old battery.

Go to boot and look confused as the boot won't open electronically.

Realise stupidity

Actually, make sure the car goes to 'sleep' after removing the ignition key there's a period of at least 5 minutes (possibly more) where the ECU is still busy and you don't want to disconnect the battery during this phase. I left mine about 30 mins just to be sure.

Also keep the windows fully closed, keep the doors unlocked, keep the key on you and not in the car. This is purely as a precaution you don't want something to throw a wobbly and lock the key inside the car etc.

I left my drivers window down and then had to 'teach' it the fully closed position again after changing the battery. I noticed if you leave the window closed you don't need to do this.

Other than this you'll only need to reset the clock, nothing else will be affected.
Great info Welton! I would have left window open as a precaution but now won't do that
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