Steering: XC90 D5 steering rack removal ?

[coughlanc]

Afternoon all.

Has anyone carried out an XC90 PS rack removal ?
I've recently purchased a 2010 D5 auto which has a notchy steering operation when cold.
A fluid change has yielded no results and the steering UJ is free. I'm left little option but to remove it for overhaul or replacement.
The sub frame looks of similar design to my 2005 D5 S60 (which I have removed).
Just wondering if anyone has any pointers or hints. I've not looked on VIDA yet or bought a suitable Haynes manual.
Thanks in advance.

[colinbos]

Having done a PAS steering fluid change, is it bright green now ?

That made a huge difference to mine when I had notchy steering.

[coughlanc]

Yep, in total it's swallowed up 5 litres of CHF 11S. It's about as green as it's going to be but made little or no difference to the rack. I have read a Volvo bulletin which describes a procedure for "tightening" the rack by way of adjusting tge calibration screw. I was about to carry out this procedure as a last ditch in-car repair before removing the rack, however the company i purchased it from have agreed to replace the rack and PAS pump tomorrow based on my findings.

[colinbos]

Originally Posted by coughlanc

Yep, in total it's swallowed up 5 litres of CHF 11S. It's about as green as it's going to be but made little or no difference to the rack. I have read a Volvo bulletin which describes a procedure for "tightening" the rack by way of adjusting tge calibration screw. I was about to carry out this procedure as a last ditch in-car repair before removing the rack, however the company i purchased it from have agreed to replace the rack and PAS pump tomorrow based on my findings.

Result.

I had my rack adjustment tightened, made no difference, but the power flush did.

Glad its being sorted though

[AidXC90]

Originally Posted by colinbos

Result.

I had my rack adjustment tightened, made no difference, but the power flush did.

Glad its being sorted though

Just resurrecting this thread to ask if the power flush can be done with the car raised up on front axle stands and the front suspension and steering parts removed (wheels, hubs, dics, pads, calipers, control arms, steering rack ends). Only the rack and Macpherson structs are still on the car.
I may need to replace my rack - "badly worn" - according to Volvo, but it's supposedly such pig of a job to remove the rack that I thought I may give it a go to flush the fluid and see if the rack really is worn, or if it's just Volvo being eager?
Or do I have to reassemble all the stuff I've removed in order to do the flush?

Thanks

[colinbos]

No need for all that. Just follow the Forum member, Sirobb's, tutorial here.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-DjUmy4prx4

[AidXC90]

Originally Posted by colinbos

No need for all that. Just follow the Forum member, Sirobb's, tutorial here.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-DjUmy4prx4

Thanks Colinbos and I've already seen that link. But I think my question wasn't clear. I have already removed all those bits in order to replace them. What I'd like to know is if I can do a flush with the car on stands, and know whether it's made enough of an improvement to avoid me having to remove the steering rack at all.
But thinking of it now, with the wheels off and car on axle stands, there is no resistance in the steering system so I can turn the wheel easily. So how would I know anyway whether or not it has improved things unless I reassemble then take it for a test drive?

[colinbos]

Apologies, I misread your post.

I think you'd bet better with everything back on to feel if the resistance/issue has got better, as you state. I would suggest it would pump around the system better if it had resistance too.

[AidXC90]

Originally Posted by colinbos

Apologies, I misread your post.

I think you'd bet better with everything back on to feel if the resistance/issue has got better, as you state. I would suggest it would pump around the system better if it had resistance too.

Well, I decided to go ahead and remove the steering rack since I had all the suspension and steering parts of the car anyway and couldn't face reassembling it to then do a power flush only to have no improvement and have to remove the rack anyway, which was a real possibility after Volvo advised it had "serious wear." So with everything but the outer steering rack ends and the struts removed, access is easier.

I've been following the Haynes manual and I discovered a mistake which anyone attempting this should be wary of. On page 10.17 the first line describes the procedure for disconnecting the "fluid delivery and return lines" specifically on the XC90, with two accompanying pictures numbered 21.4a and 21.4b. Those instructions and pictures are incorrect as they refer to the fuel lines! I discoverd this after finally separating one of the lines from it's in-line clip and having diesel fuel running over my hand. I'll report this to Haynes hoping that they'll issue another edition. The actual procedure for disconnecting the XC90 steering lines from the rack is like that described on the previous page 10.16 which refers to the XC60 procedure. The last paragraph on the page, paragraph number 21.3, describes and refers to photograph 21.3 namely to remove the nut holding the union coupling and this is quite easy to do if you have a long enough extension bar and a ratchet wrench. This is the correct method and if I can do it, anyone can.

Now for some advice please. I've managed to support the engine via an engine support beam and have loosened the front and rhs lower engine mounts - both quite easy to do. I've also removed the rear cross-member and undone the exhaust support bracket's two bolts, and I was quite chuffed with myself for getting this far after the lengthy misdirection described above courtesy of the Haynes Manual, but the bracket doesn't want to budge. Is there another hidden bolt I need to undo? I certainly can't find one.
Also, although I can see the rear engine mount's bolt from under the car, I can't reach it. It's almost directly behind the anti-roll bar; visible and oh so near but tantilisingly out of reach. I've used an extension bar with a u-j knuckle thingy on the end and the socket actually touches the bolt head, but I can't line it up to get it to sit over the bolt. Can anyone please advise how I can actually reach the !£$%%$£ bolt !? I'm feeling a bit stoopid now, to have come thus far and grind to a halt....

Thanks

Aidan

[Jasch1994]

Hope I can help with that rear engine mount. I replaced this and the way you want to get to it is as follows. Get the socket (14 or 13mm I believe), attach to a 3/8 ratchet (this is imperative). Reach through the recess where the exhaust goes through with your right arm and reach around to access it that way, it is possible and not actually that hard. It worked fine for me and I'm sure it will when I replace my rack soon.