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Fuel pump hide and seek

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Old Mar 28th, 2018, 08:32   #1
aardvarkash10
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Default Fuel pump hide and seek

OK folks - help a blind old man out.

Where's the damn fuel pump(s) on my 940 estate????

Pump relay is working ok, but suddenly no fuel pressure at the rail and no purring noises from back and beneath...
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Old Mar 28th, 2018, 10:34   #2
ericbeaumont
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Depends on the year; either in the tank, or in the tank and under the car beneath the passenger seat.
Stick a length of garden hose into the tank and put your ear to it while someone turns the ignition key. You should hear the pump whirring.

Replacing an in-tank pump requires a great deal of patient dexterity.
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Old Mar 28th, 2018, 20:11   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aardvarkash10 View Post
OK folks - help a blind old man out.

Where's the damn fuel pump(s) on my 940 estate????

Pump relay is working ok, but suddenly no fuel pressure at the rail and no purring noises from back and beneath...
https://youtu.be/EU7IlwvhCQY
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Old Mar 28th, 2018, 20:35   #4
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The in tank pump is a total PITA to change, I hope it's not that for your sake.
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Old Mar 28th, 2018, 22:49   #5
clandyuk
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Changed the in-tank pump on my '96 940 Estate yonks ago.
Two things stick in my mind from the experience:
It is easy to get to on the estate as there's access from inside the car to the top of the tank and it is fairly easy to wiggle it out......but
1. The big plastic "nut" holding everything in place willl shrink when you remove it and will then NOT go back on. Secret is to heat it up for 5mins in v.hot water to expand it back and it'll go back on without a problem.
2. The replacement pump MUST be collapsed up on itself to get it correctly positioned. Use a piece of string to hold it and then release it once in position.

Apart from the above, it really wasn't that difficult. Cost was £127 for pump (Volvo Part# 9438756) and don't forget the sealing ring (P# 1367623 @ £6.90). Prices as at May 2008!
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Old Mar 29th, 2018, 19:08   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clandyuk View Post
1. The big plastic "nut" holding everything in place willl shrink when you remove it and will then NOT go back on. Secret is to heat it up for 5mins in v.hot water to expand it back and it'll go back on without a problem.
On the subject of the nut/lock-ring and the seal, smear some silicone grease on the seal to help hold it in place while inserting the sender/pump assembly and smear some grease on the edge of the assembly to help it slip in to the seal - also smear some on the threads on the tank where the lock-ring goes.

Once in and tight, get a length of wood (i used some inch by inch batten) and a big hammer to tighten it - there are sections raised round the edge for fitting tightening tools but i'm guessing you won't have those so the wood works just as well.

A month or two after doing it, remove the access hatch again and give it another tighten with the hammer and wood - an MoT failure when it dripped on the testers head reminded me i hadn't done that!
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Old Mar 31st, 2018, 05:16   #7
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Well gynaecology 101, complete.

Ended up a forceps breach delivery, some tearing, mother doing ok, but the baby has a wornout pump and so open heart surgery is required. Awaiting a suitable donor as we speak (if anyone has a Bosch high pressure in-tank pump, part 580 453 037 I'd be interested).
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Old Mar 31st, 2018, 09:00   #8
Laird Scooby
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aardvarkash10 View Post
Well gynaecology 101, complete.

Ended up a forceps breach delivery, some tearing, mother doing ok, but the baby has a wornout pump and so open heart surgery is required. Awaiting a suitable donor as we speak (if anyone has a Bosch high pressure in-tank pump, part 580 453 037 I'd be interested).
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_o...3+037&_sacat=0

That should link to what's available on ebay UK Ash, none of the part numbers are exactly correct but as we both know, Bosch often have a few part numbers that are interchangeable. Most of those are listed as fitting Volvos of various types, it could simply be the later part number for an older part that has been "repurposed" by a modern car assembler.

What breakers yards do you have locally? My line of thought is if you could find one of the "moderns" that uses the same pump, raid the breakers for the pump and do a transplant. I don't know if breakers in your part of the world "adjust" the price according to what car you want it for but if so it might be worth getting a list together of the moderns that use this pump and getting a few prices before you head out with your tools for a sunny day in the scrappies.
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Old Mar 31st, 2018, 09:47   #9
aardvarkash10
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so, SP brand pattern part for $30NZD, or Bosch superseded part number for closer to $100NZD

3 and a bit times price difference makes it a no-brainer really - bought two of the SP units as it appeals to my irish genetics, to be sure to be sure

Last edited by aardvarkash10; Mar 31st, 2018 at 09:56.
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Old Mar 31st, 2018, 09:58   #10
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At that price, leave your tools where they are, get the barbie out and have a great afternoon while you wait for your new pump to land!

Chances are they're made in the same factory these days and you're paying the extra to have the Bosch name stamped onto it! At that price, you can afford to take a gamble on the cheaper one not lasting as long as the Bosch but i daresay it will last.
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