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Help, my 240 doesn´t start

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Old Apr 12th, 2018, 12:33   #1
Classico
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Default Help, my 240 doesn´t start

Oh well, after a recent complete service and some exhaust mending (getting rid of holed mid muffler and put a straight pipe instead) the car was going fine. A week later it turns but doesn´t start.


Went yesterday morning for a ride but couldn´t start it. Tried again on the afternoon and then started after trying some. I noticed that firing the engine was not as inmediate as before but went for a ride and the engine didn´t miss a beat so I thought it was ok.

But this morning wouldn´t start again!

It has fuel, electrics seems ok, pretty new spark plugs, battery ok.
What could it be? Petrol pump perhaps?

It is a 230F engine

Any ideas, please
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Old Apr 12th, 2018, 12:56   #2
Classico
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My bad posting before searching forum, sorry

I´ve found a list of possible culprits perfectrly summarise as follows:

Originally Posted by Clifford Pope View Post
Possibilities in order of ease of checking:

Fuses. Clean fuses 4 and 6 - fuel pumps (If you carry a short bit of wire with a crocodile clip at each end, and the car won't start, try clipping 4 and 6 together. There will be a spark because it bypasses the relay and lets the pumps run continuously. Gets you home, then DISCONNECT)

Fuel pump relay White relay up behing the glove box, near the wiper mechanism. Always worth carrying a good spare, takes seconds to unplug and swap it in

Ignition Amplifier Module Flat module bolted to the inner wing just in front of the battery. Carry a spare, and if 1 and 2 don't work, unplug and clip it in. Have the spare already mounted on its heat sink, then it can just dangle until you get home.

Crank Position Sensor The fiddly one. If you know what you are doing it's a roadside job, but don't lose the bolt !

There's an endless list of possibles after that, but those account for 99% of all starting problems.
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Old Apr 12th, 2018, 18:29   #3
morsing
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Can you hear the fuel pump buzz for a second when turning the ignition on? It's by the left, rear wheel, might help if you have someone sit next to it and listen.

If not, get a test light out and see if the relay behind the glove box closes correctly, or alternatively pull the wires of the fuel pump and test on those, but remember they're only on for a second when you turn the ignition on.

Also try pulling a spark plug wire and rest it on top of the engine. You should be able to see the spark to the block when turning it over.
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Old Apr 14th, 2018, 00:31   #4
DW42
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It should have LH2.4 injection, in which case you can check the computer's diagnostic codes. Use this guide: https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/EngineOBDCodes.html

I wonder if the oxygen sensor was disturbed during the exhaust repair. If it's not sending a signal to the ECU you can end up with the fuel mixture running too rich, fouling the spark plugs, then making the car hard to start and run poorly. This theory would be supported if you get codes 1-1-3 and/or 2-1-2.
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Old Apr 14th, 2018, 11:11   #5
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As 'Classico' says that the problem arose after replacing his muffler (silencer(?)) with a straight pipe, might this not be something as simple as altered back-pressure in the exhaust system causing the engine not to start?

If the car was running well before he did so and nothing else was changed, then that is the first place that I would look when attempting to identify the fault.

Regards, John.
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Old Apr 14th, 2018, 12:07   #6
chris m
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my (wild) guess: Sensor on top of clutch bell housing?

I had that problem with my B230F (ages ago)... replaced the sensor, problem was sorted for good!

Hope this might help, Chris
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Old Apr 18th, 2018, 11:00   #7
Classico
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Finally it was the CPS-Crank position sensor, number 4 in Clifford Pope list of non-start main culprits (see above).
Thanks Cliff and other advise
Very helpful forum indeed
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Old Oct 19th, 2018, 10:05   #8
Staticloveninja
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I’m having issues with my FPR. I have gone through 4 in the last month! Every time I replace it the car starts and drives fine. 87 240... when I removed the casing the other day I could see where the contact had melted the plastic. When I was able to make the contact with a screw driver the car would start but as soon as I began to drive it would start dying and run rough then die.
What could cause the relay to burn out that fast?? I replaced the ignition coil, both in tank and external fuel pumps.... I’m going insane with this. Could there be a faulty wire shorting it out and where do I even start to search?
Thanks!
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