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PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General Forum for the Volvo PV, 120 and 1800 cars |
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Volvo PV444 wins 1957 Petit Lemans at Lime Rock!Views : 86490 Replies : 281Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Mar 23rd, 2018, 12:59 | #21 | |
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As for the PV - seat belts - do you need a proper four point harness or just a three point set up?
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1961 Volvo PV544 the quick and easy in between project(!) 1981 Mercedes 300D <=> 230 diesel to petrol conversion project 1965 Series 2a Station Wagon mega build 1992 Mercedes 190E The car that works! |
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Mar 26th, 2018, 02:17 | #22 |
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I had great expectations for the weekend. But on Saturday morning, I espied a Craigslist ad for a B20 motor about 2 and a half hours away. Knowing absolutely anything about the B20 motor, I decided to go get it on the theory that I should buy when the item is available.
As usual, the spare motor was not very well cared for, but it spins and someone put a substantial amount of grease at the front crank where a pulley should be. It is a B20 4969 29 25945 that I think was used in the 140 series. I have no idea what the carburation was, but the intake / exhaust manifold has butterfly valves built in. The fellow I bought it from, however, gave me a intake / exhaust manifold which I can use for SU carbs. He suggested that the manifold was rare and worth more than the engine. Of course, I know nothing. I spent a good portion of today cleaning it up and building a "box" for it to sit in so it is upright. Then I moved it to the barn that I rent for storage. I now have two spare engines. That should be enough! Although I didn't have a chance with the wire wheel, I think my passenger side and both rear floorboards are is pretty good condition with no rust through. The steering wheel repair is coming along. Although I have patched the cracks, the entire rim is cloudy perhaps because of the sun's ultraviolet rays. Not sure what to do, and was hoping to get a small quantity, two part epoxy paint in black, but can't find any. I'm trying to post photos of the steering wheel. I pulled the steering wheel with the 2 arm gear puller once I pushed the turn signal housing behind the steering wheel towards the dash (photo 1). Photo 2 shows the turn signal mechanism inside the housing behind the wheel. The turn signal stalk was held on with a 12mm nut that I could get at from the small end near the dash. I had two cracks in the wheel that I repaired with PC-7. |
Mar 26th, 2018, 12:21 | #23 |
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The manifold with the butterflies is at best, undesirable. The butterflies are for emissions purposes and it's inefficient even when the butterflies work. If the extra manifold is a similar one piece one with dual exhaust outlets but without the butterflies, it could be the best Volvo one and work well. Post a pic.
You might be able to find a body shop that is spraying a black car. A couple of black base coats and multiple clear coats should give it a long life. Mask the centre off before you take it in. Audi repair shop? |
Mar 29th, 2018, 13:57 | #24 |
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Derek, that spare B20 engine is in storage. Next time I go there I'll take some pictures.
Today's question concerns the paint. My car is California White, color code 42. It seems that it is painted with either a "synthetic enamel" or a "cellulose enamel" by Glasurit. There are several high heat temp drying paints listed in the factory manual, but for my purposes, also an air drying enamel listed as Glassomax Lackemaille Air Drying California 20 - Volvo 117". I'm not sure if the "California 20 - Volvo 117" signifies some different paint code. In any event, I think I've found a source (www.autocolorlibrary.com) for some white paint, California White #42, that I can get in several options: Acrylic Enamel; Acrylic Urethane; Acrylic Lacquer; Urethane Basecoat and Low VOC UBLV Urethane Basecoat - the last one being a water based paint, I believe. My car has about 80% percent paint in reasonable condition, but some large areas that need to be addressed and repainted. I want a compatible paint suitable for a guy who will be using a spray gun for the first time and who isn't too good with rattle can paints. Any suggestions as to which paint option I should choose? And the reason? |
Mar 29th, 2018, 17:26 | #25 | |
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...any decent paint shop will encourage you to strip what you have and start again because: The problem you will probably face is that different paint systems can react with each other. Some people might recommend a sealer before painting - in this case they say you might be able to mix different systems.
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1961 Volvo PV544 the quick and easy in between project(!) 1981 Mercedes 300D <=> 230 diesel to petrol conversion project 1965 Series 2a Station Wagon mega build 1992 Mercedes 190E The car that works! |
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Mar 29th, 2018, 22:39 | #26 |
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Suggest that I go to a decent paint shop ?
The body shop around the corner from me gave up collision work and in now doing "custom builds" . I can see the quality of the work through the window. It's stunning - and they already know how to do a custom '46 Ford, so the Volvo would be a piece of cake. I figure that if I strip the car down and deliver it along with a bag of cash containing $10,000 U.S., that I'd have a lovely paint job and a car that is worth about $8,000. Then once I figure in the additional cost of the alimony payments, the gloss of the shiny new paint is significantly diminished. |
Mar 29th, 2018, 23:38 | #27 |
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Last Online: Feb 11th, 2022 03:15
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I´m not saying you necessarily need to repaint but I think you need to be prepared for it / at least everyone telling you you need to...
...how much of the bad paint is on parts you can remove? You could for example leave the body in what ever condition it is and repaint the wings and bonnet and boot lid. You could even be honest and do those parts in a different colour (!) ##### I don´t suppose it is time to take about the 50 dollar paint job yet is it?
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1961 Volvo PV544 the quick and easy in between project(!) 1981 Mercedes 300D <=> 230 diesel to petrol conversion project 1965 Series 2a Station Wagon mega build 1992 Mercedes 190E The car that works! |
Mar 30th, 2018, 23:27 | #28 |
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Facebook just popped up this photo of my "other" car from six years ago.
I was heading out to run it at Lime Rock on 3/31, i.e. tomorrow The car sits today in storage, yet another casualty of "global warming" and extremely late spring. |
Mar 31st, 2018, 16:08 | #29 |
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Question de jure: I'm midway through replacing the transmission mount. I think the transmission is an M4. The replacement mount that I purchased is round, but the sleeve for the through bolt is off center, with more rubber on one side that the other. I'm thinking the thicker rubber goes on the bottom.
Any knowledge out there? The old mount was so far gone that I couldn't tell, although it looked like the sleeve for the through bolt was more in the center. |
Apr 1st, 2018, 12:50 | #30 | |
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1961 Volvo PV544 the quick and easy in between project(!) 1981 Mercedes 300D <=> 230 diesel to petrol conversion project 1965 Series 2a Station Wagon mega build 1992 Mercedes 190E The car that works! |
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