how to remove crank pulley?

milgo · Feb 11th, 2009, 19:25

Hey people hopefully you can help me. I'm changing the cambelt on my 2001 s40 t4 and wanted to know if there is an easy way to lock the engine so I can remove the crank pulley? I know its best to use an impact wrench, but I want to try and do the job without one. Or perhaps there is a way around removing it?

Any help would be much appreciated

Clan · Feb 11th, 2009, 19:30

you dont need to remove the crank pulley to change the belt...

milgo · Feb 11th, 2009, 19:51

Ah brilliant. Only just started it and then the weather turned on me so havn't had a chance to get stuck in.

One more question. Is it possible to just replace the pulley on the aux tensioner rather than the whole part? The Bearing sounds and feels a bit shot, but theres nothing wrong with the tensioning unit.

adamsky01 · Feb 11th, 2009, 20:03

Quote:

Originally Posted by milgo

Ah brilliant. Only just started it and then the weather turned on me so havn't had a chance to get stuck in.

One more question. Is it possible to just replace the pulley on the aux tensioner rather than the whole part? The Bearing sounds and feels a bit shot, but theres nothing wrong with the tensioning unit.

yes u do need to remove the crank pully on the s/v40 because other wise u will not be able to get the old belt of or the new one on go to argos u can get a impact hamer for £25 that plugs in the cigy socket

adamsky01 · Feb 11th, 2009, 20:05

Quote:

Originally Posted by milgo

Ah brilliant. Only just started it and then the weather turned on me so havn't had a chance to get stuck in.

One more question. Is it possible to just replace the pulley on the aux tensioner rather than the whole part? The Bearing sounds and feels a bit shot, but theres nothing wrong with the tensioning unit.

tensioners are complete units http://www.partsforvolvosonline.com/...oducts_id=5917
hope this helps

milgo · Feb 11th, 2009, 20:06

One of those beefy enough to do the job? They don't seem capable of much torque?

adamsky01 · Feb 11th, 2009, 20:41

Quote:

Originally Posted by milgo

One of those beefy enough to do the job? They don't seem capable of much torque?

its all i use m8

Clan · Feb 11th, 2009, 20:46

Quote:

Originally Posted by milgo

Ah brilliant. Only just started it and then the weather turned on me so havn't had a chance to get stuck in.

One more question. Is it possible to just replace the pulley on the aux tensioner rather than the whole part? The Bearing sounds and feels a bit shot, but theres nothing wrong with the tensioning unit.

I dont think you can get it on its own . its with the tensioning unit ..

No need at all to get the pulley off ,Its certainly not in the volvo method for doing the cambelt ( except for a D5 because the belt is wider ) Once you take off the plastic guard at the 3 to 7 o clock position ( 2 10 mm AF bolts ) the belt will slip through the gap between plastic cover and pulley if you twist it a touch , there is a lump sticking out of the timing cover under the pulley at 6 o=clock you can feel this so ease it around . You can cut it off if you wish as its easier getting the new one on than the old one off ! Then slip the new belt through the gap in the casing and twist a bit to go between the lump at 6 o clock and the toothed wheel , no problem . I can understand someone having trouble the first time but with practice its a piece of cake ...

adamsky01 · Feb 11th, 2009, 20:49

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clan

I dont think you can get it on its own . its with the tensioning unit ..

No need at all to get the pulley off ,( except for a D5 because the belt is wider ) Once you take off the plastic guard at the 3 to 7 o clock position ( 2 10 mm AF bolts ) the belt will slip through the gap between plastic cover and pulley if you twist it a touch , there is a lump sticking out of the timing cover under the pulley at 6 o=clock you can feel this so ease it around . You can cut it off if you wish as its easier getting the new one on than the old one off ! Then slip the new belt through the gap in the casing and twist a bit to go between the lump at 6 o clock and the toothed wheel , no problem . I can understand someone having trouble the first time but with practice its a piece of cake ...

cam i have done 6 of these m8 trust me with out tlking the pully whell of u wont get lower cover of let alone get at the belt let alone line up the pully marks my god

Clan · Feb 11th, 2009, 21:03

sounds like you are having trouble there - you line up the crank pulley mark with the mark on the oil pump cover looking from the top before you take the belt off .You say take lower cover off , you mean that semi-circle piece to the front ( 3 o-clock to 7 oclock ) held by 2 10 mm bolts ? That slips out ok ... ???? I probably have an advantage having done hundreds since 1991 when this type of engine came out in the 960 ... but really . try it without taking the pulley off next time you can do it in much less time then

Feb 11th, 2009, 19:25	#1
milgo New Member Last Online: Apr 4th, 2009 09:56 Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: chelmsford	how to remove crank pulley? Hey people hopefully you can help me. I'm changing the cambelt on my 2001 s40 t4 and wanted to know if there is an easy way to lock the engine so I can remove the crank pulley? I know its best to use an impact wrench, but I want to try and do the job without one. Or perhaps there is a way around removing it? Any help would be much appreciated

Feb 11th, 2009, 19:30	#2
Clan Experienced Member Last Online: Yesterday 22:32 Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: L/H side	you dont need to remove the crank pulley to change the belt... __________________ My comments are only based on my opinions and vast experience .

Feb 11th, 2009, 21:03	#10
Clan Experienced Member Last Online: Yesterday 22:32 Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: L/H side	sounds like you are having trouble there - you line up the crank pulley mark with the mark on the oil pump cover looking from the top before you take the belt off .You say take lower cover off , you mean that semi-circle piece to the front ( 3 o-clock to 7 oclock ) held by 2 10 mm bolts ? That slips out ok ... ???? I probably have an advantage having done hundreds since 1991 when this type of engine came out in the 960 ... but really . try it without taking the pulley off next time you can do it in much less time then __________________ My comments are only based on my opinions and vast experience .

Feb 11th, 2009, 19:51	#3
milgo New Member Last Online: Apr 4th, 2009 09:56 Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: chelmsford	Ah brilliant. Only just started it and then the weather turned on me so havn't had a chance to get stuck in. One more question. Is it possible to just replace the pulley on the aux tensioner rather than the whole part? The Bearing sounds and feels a bit shot, but theres nothing wrong with the tensioning unit.

Feb 11th, 2009, 20:06	#6
milgo New Member Last Online: Apr 4th, 2009 09:56 Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: chelmsford	One of those beefy enough to do the job? They don't seem capable of much torque?

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)