940 clutch bleeding

themouseiswet · Jun 7th, 2011, 13:31

Hi peoples, I got towed home by the AA the other night after 100 miles of a 110 mile journey. Couldn't get the car into gear all of a sudden. AA man said it was the clutch slave cylinder which I've replaced with a new one. Sure enough, the seals are gone in the old one...

Have been bleeding the clutch for well over an hour (assistant method!) and still no joy. Streams of air come out followed by clean fluid but can still hear air in the system. Got this cleared but pedal is still spongy and no gears.

Release nipple, pedal down, tighten nipple, pedal up. What am I doing wrong? Should the pedal be pumped a few times in between?

Any advice would be appreciated.

940_Turbo · Jun 7th, 2011, 13:41

Normally they'll self bleed. Put some pipe on the end of the nipple and dangle it into a jar of brake fluid. Top up the reservoir, give the pedal a few pumps and let it sit. The fluid level should slowly drop. Top it up, close the nipple and it should be bled.

If you're impatient a Gunson's Eezi bleed works well.

themouseiswet · Jun 7th, 2011, 13:58

Have been doing it with the pipe and jar but will try your suggestion thanks!

940_Turbo · Jun 7th, 2011, 14:52

Did you put the bleed nipple at the top?

Steve940estate · Jun 7th, 2011, 15:10

My car was a bit difficult when I did it. Makes sure you don't let the fluid level drop much as it just sucks air in again.
Somethimes just letting the fluid run through will do the job, you could try holding the pedal down fo a bit to see if that encourages the air to come out of the top or even push any remaining air out of the top by squeezing the slave cylinder in a bit.

themouseiswet · Jun 7th, 2011, 18:53

Thanks guys... tried everything but to no avail. My Volvo neighbour saw us having problems and offered me his pressurised bleeding kit. More air out and we did it twice with fresh fluid to make sure. The pedal is now stiff, not lifting the fork inside the gearbox perchance...
Looks like a tow to a garage as I haven't access to the right equipment to split the engine and gearbox apart.

Actually Steve, I notice you're in Andover! Same here if you could possibly give me second opinion cos I'm scratching my head!

popuptoaster · Jun 7th, 2011, 19:33

I use a bit of fishtank air hose for bleeding, bung the end up with a screw and a put a small slot in the tube near the bottom about 10mm long with a sharp stanley or scalpel blade.

the pressure will push fluid out but wont let air back in, so you dont need to worry about it being covered in fluid, my bit is long enough that i can see the end of it to check for bubbles whatever wheel its on and still let me press the brake pedal.

Steve940estate · Jun 7th, 2011, 19:34

I didn't notice where you were.
I would be happy to have a look if it would help.
I live near John Hanson school, send me a pm if you want.
Actually you might not be able to if you are a new member.
Do you live near to me ?

Steve940estate · Jun 7th, 2011, 19:51

It might be that the slave cylinder wasn't the original problem. If other parts fail the result can be that the slave cylinder innerds are able to pop out of the cylinder itself. Take care if pressing the clutch in case it happens again.
One thing I can think of is that the clutch arm pivot can wear or break the nylon cup it sits in, this allows things to move about and will prevent the clutch operating.

Andreas S · Jun 7th, 2011, 20:25

take an oil can and a hoze and put it on bleeding nipple and pump oil untill there comes no air in brake fluid container, worked everytime sofar

Jun 7th, 2011, 13:31	#1
themouseiswet New Member Last Online: Jun 8th, 2011 22:25 Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Andover	940 clutch bleeding Hi peoples, I got towed home by the AA the other night after 100 miles of a 110 mile journey. Couldn't get the car into gear all of a sudden. AA man said it was the clutch slave cylinder which I've replaced with a new one. Sure enough, the seals are gone in the old one... Have been bleeding the clutch for well over an hour (assistant method!) and still no joy. Streams of air come out followed by clean fluid but can still hear air in the system. Got this cleared but pedal is still spongy and no gears. Release nipple, pedal down, tighten nipple, pedal up. What am I doing wrong? Should the pedal be pumped a few times in between? Any advice would be appreciated.

Jun 7th, 2011, 19:51	#9
Steve940estate Steam Driven PC Owner. Last Online: Jun 11th, 2024 15:05 Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Not sure.	It might be that the slave cylinder wasn't the original problem. If other parts fail the result can be that the slave cylinder innerds are able to pop out of the cylinder itself. Take care if pressing the clutch in case it happens again. One thing I can think of is that the clutch arm pivot can wear or break the nylon cup it sits in, this allows things to move about and will prevent the clutch operating. Last edited by Steve940estate; Jun 7th, 2011 at 20:01.

Jun 7th, 2011, 13:41	#2
940_Turbo . Last Online: Jul 14th, 2013 14:28 Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: MK	Normally they'll self bleed. Put some pipe on the end of the nipple and dangle it into a jar of brake fluid. Top up the reservoir, give the pedal a few pumps and let it sit. The fluid level should slowly drop. Top it up, close the nipple and it should be bled. If you're impatient a Gunson's Eezi bleed works well.

Jun 7th, 2011, 13:58	#3
themouseiswet New Member Last Online: Jun 8th, 2011 22:25 Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Andover	Have been doing it with the pipe and jar but will try your suggestion thanks!

Jun 7th, 2011, 14:52	#4
940_Turbo . Last Online: Jul 14th, 2013 14:28 Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: MK	Did you put the bleed nipple at the top?

Jun 7th, 2011, 15:10	#5
Steve940estate Steam Driven PC Owner. Last Online: Jun 11th, 2024 15:05 Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Not sure.	My car was a bit difficult when I did it. Makes sure you don't let the fluid level drop much as it just sucks air in again. Somethimes just letting the fluid run through will do the job, you could try holding the pedal down fo a bit to see if that encourages the air to come out of the top or even push any remaining air out of the top by squeezing the slave cylinder in a bit.

Jun 7th, 2011, 18:53	#6
themouseiswet New Member Last Online: Jun 8th, 2011 22:25 Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Andover	Thanks guys... tried everything but to no avail. My Volvo neighbour saw us having problems and offered me his pressurised bleeding kit. More air out and we did it twice with fresh fluid to make sure. The pedal is now stiff, not lifting the fork inside the gearbox perchance... Looks like a tow to a garage as I haven't access to the right equipment to split the engine and gearbox apart. Actually Steve, I notice you're in Andover! Same here if you could possibly give me second opinion cos I'm scratching my head!

Jun 7th, 2011, 19:33	#7
popuptoaster Master Member Last Online: Aug 2nd, 2018 19:03 Join Date: May 2011 Location: Essex	I use a bit of fishtank air hose for bleeding, bung the end up with a screw and a put a small slot in the tube near the bottom about 10mm long with a sharp stanley or scalpel blade. the pressure will push fluid out but wont let air back in, so you dont need to worry about it being covered in fluid, my bit is long enough that i can see the end of it to check for bubbles whatever wheel its on and still let me press the brake pedal.

Jun 7th, 2011, 19:34	#8
Steve940estate Steam Driven PC Owner. Last Online: Jun 11th, 2024 15:05 Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Not sure.	I didn't notice where you were. I would be happy to have a look if it would help. I live near John Hanson school, send me a pm if you want. Actually you might not be able to if you are a new member. Do you live near to me ?

Jun 7th, 2011, 20:25	#10
Andreas S Member Last Online: May 28th, 2014 21:57 Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Sweden	take an oil can and a hoze and put it on bleeding nipple and pump oil untill there comes no air in brake fluid container, worked everytime sofar

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