2006 S60 Suspension rebuild

[Pashabg]

Originally Posted by rangerovering

I saw a video of the ball joints needing hammered out, not the best design I suppose for replacement ease!

Looks like the passenger side strut mount has failed in some sort of fashion, steering has got lumpy and squeaky at times now too. The more I have driven it the more I think needs replaced!

Anyone got thoughts on Sachs springs and Bilstein shocks on these cars? I’ve fitted a lot of Bilstein a and really like them, springs I don’t know as much about which are gold brands and which aren’t. Or is Volvo genuine the best way?

Was considering Meyle strut mounts and bearings also?

You hammer it, yes, but as I said, there really isn't much space to swing with the hammer on the ground. If you have a ramp - different story. Also, if you decide to go ahead, be very careful not pull to hard the driveshaft as it is quite easy to pull it's inner bearing out, which is mission impossible to but back in. The result is new driveshaft. Don't ask me how I know! When you do the ball joint, hammer it out and then release the control arm, not the other way around. When you put the new one in, put it through the control arm first and then bolt it on to the hub.

As far as I know, the original shocks and springs are made by Sachs. I can confirm about shocks on mine, unfortunately there is no branding on the springs but I read on several places they are Sachs as well. I personally don't thing the springs make would matter as long as they are between specs and don't snap. Shocks are different story.

I watched video about S60 week points, done by garage in Moscow, which does only Volvos (exposed to harsh conditions, being in Moscow) and their recommendation was that for the rubber strut mount, the make wouldn't matter much, as long as it is reputable brand, but for the bearing thing they suggested nothing else but original Volvo one or SKF. I ignored them and went for Corteco but I regret this decision now.

[Thassos]

Volvo used to sell the wishbone bushes as a separate part, (the front one being the one that gets the hammering & needs replacing) you needed a hydraulic press type tool to push them out which dealers have, these days they sell the wishbone as an 'exchange' part which kinda makes sense and ticks the re-cycling box too (i guess). Lemforder seem to show the bushes as separate parts avail, so you could go that route if you know someone with a press and suitable spacers to swap them out, if you do there are 2 ways round to install the bush (the wrong way round will result in some wonkey steering geometry)

From other comments on here i think sachs are the oem shocks, (bilsteins apparently give a harsher ride).

[rangerovering]

Appreciate this info chaps!

I do have a press (years of having a Land Rover and other car projects meant it’s paid for itself 10 times over easily!), so perhaps rebuilding the control arm is the way to go certainly it’s considerably more cost effective!

Interesting comment on the Bilsteins, I put them on the Mrs’ Merc and my fathers Focus as well as my brothers A8, never had an issue. Is this the standard B4 shock you refer to or the stiffer B6? I have B6s on my Range Rover wilhich with air suspension gives superb road holding but not the smoothest ride. I wouldn’t choose them again next time. B4s are more or less OEM for many of the cars on The road I thought....

Anyway, having looked under the arches on the S60 the spring looks quite a tight coil bind, not a lot of “give” in it. What height from floor to wheel arch does everyone have? The springs look of a fair age and the shocks the same,any bump or ripple in the road seems to be transmitted to the cabin quite harshly.

I would say that while old shocks may not leak or may not bounce uncontrollably, from multiple suspension rebuilds new ones always give a smoother ride...

[oragex]

Originally Posted by Pashabg

Hopefully the picture will clarify what I mean. It is only 2 years (10k miles) old and already looks almost cracked. This could be quite normal, I don't know. It just doesn't look normal to me. To me it looks under pressure.

For an aftermarket one, it's actually rather impressive after 2 years. But it's not completely busted, it should be good for another 1-2 years. This is what a quite bad one looks like https://youtu.be/P1QaJbyjr2s this how I pressed the small bushing in https://youtu.be/w0q4nku0Rz8

[oragex]

Originally Posted by Thassos

Lemforder seem to show the bushes as separate parts avail

Don't buy Lemforder bushes sold individually, they don't last. Perhaps the whole Lemf wishbone has better bushes, but the bushes they sold by the unit are bad, lasted on me only 1 year https://youtu.be/q32CuR34v6c I then replaced with genuine bush sold individually

[Kevin_L]

Interesting reading

I'm just doing the front suspension on my 2005 V70

Lemforder track control arms, track rod ends, drop links, and Volvo ball joints

I'm also changing the outer and inner CV boots, both from Volvo (existing ones are both split)

I put on an earlier post about the grease for the inner tripod joint.... The kit came with Ford g - ps grease. I want to grease up the near side too (I bought a used genuine nearside shaft as my existing has thrown the outer CV joint (it was a pattern). I can't find this grease anywhere though it looks like bog standard LM?? Not sure so I might just use lith moly (I have done before!!)

I drifted out the ball joints.... The new ones come with 13mm bolts... The ones fitted are 14mm.... And I noticed that even though the joint fits flush onto the hub carrier where the bolts go, there's a slight gap, say half mm.... I'll see what the other side is like when I do it.... And try and attach a photo....I took it off twice and back on.... It seems fine??

Lowering the new track control arm to get the ball joint in.... I've got one of those lever tools that hook on the control arm.... And lever off of the chassis/subframe....I could not do it myself.... Had to get the neighbour's much younger and stronger than me to lever down and then all engaged ok....I tried the ratchet method but wasn't working for me

I pushed the tripod into the cup thing....I had to do it that way as the cup thing won't come out.... And I know it won't on the near side so on my new drive shaft I'll have to split the inner joint and then put the band on after...I know there's room on the nearside but I can get my boot pliers in on the offside....no room.... So don't know what to do

I see that you can buy pliers for doing up bands where a torque is required and they seem shorter and you put a 3/8" ratchet/extension to the tool at 90degrees.... More money!!

PIA!! And I recently did front pads/discs and tyres..... And will need 4 wheel tracking

Oh I have also bought the rear drop links.... Not sure I'll do them!!

So...... queries:

- any comments on the ball joint and gap??

- any ingenious ways to secure cvj boots on inner boots where my band pliers don't fit... The smaller/use a ratchet ??

Thanks