Rusty brake-line (hard line)

[pierremcalpine]

Originally Posted by ITSv40

It may look daunting to start with, but once the tank is out, there is a massive void and makes easy access to the underside of the car. Well worth doing in my opinion. Good luck

I hope you are right! It looks like my fuel line is going to need attention as well...I will have to do some research on that one too.

[bimmer49]

Reminds me of when I was in Richmond Hill (Toronto) visiting family in 1974. I could use the family car, a Galaxy 500 of '66 vintage. I was warned the parking brake was seized so always put auto in Park when leaving. One morning I pushed on the footbrake a tad too much at the lights and "lost" the pedal to the floor. Turned out to be a corroded brake line near to the back axle. The mechanic ( an RCMP moonlighter) said car was too far gone to save and recommended scrapping. So it was and replaced with a new Ford. I thought I was in for a bollocking but family were grateful that it didn't happen with them all onboard that included 3 kiddies! Phew!

[blthwaites]

When you've replaced these lines, are the unions and pipe sizing generic or is there a specific size for the vehicle?

I drive a Volvo V40 2003 1.9Di

looking at this but just want to confirm it's the right kit before i go ahead

Thanks!

[pierremcalpine]

Originally Posted by blthwaites

When you've replaced these lines, are the unions and pipe sizing generic or is there a specific size for the vehicle?

I drive a Volvo V40 2003 1.9Di

looking at this but just want to confirm it's the right kit before i go ahead

Thanks!

What you want is 3/16" tubing (5mm) and bubble flair unions. Well to be fair, you don't need all your unions to be bubble flare but know that your flex lines will be so those joints will definitely need to be bubble. If you are cutting into the lines elsewhere you could use double flare if you prefer. All my reading suggesting avoiding single flare or compression unions for the brake lines. As for fuel, anything goes in theory - I went with double flare since I had the kit and the fittings were easier to come by. I hope that helps. BTW I also seem to remember suggestions NOT to use pure copper...don't remember why. I had the best success with Copper/Nickel alloy tubing.

[ITSv40]

Originally Posted by pierremcalpine

What you want is 3/16" tubing (5mm) and bubble flair unions. Well to be fair, you don't need all your unions to be bubble flare but know that your flex lines will be so those joints will definitely need to be bubble. If you are cutting into the lines elsewhere you could use double flare if you prefer. All my reading suggesting avoiding single flare or compression unions for the brake lines. As for fuel, anything goes in theory - I went with double flare since I had the kit and the fittings were easier to come by. I hope that helps. BTW I also seem to remember suggestions NOT to use pure copper...don't remember why. I had the best success with Copper/Nickel alloy tubing.

Copper tubing goes hard once it has been formed into a curve or tight bend. Copper/Nickel stays much more flexible and allows minor adjustments to get a good fit. Copper is 'one bend only' with little chance of correcting it. Also I have heard copper can split in service, where Copper/Nickel will withstand the pressures better.

[canis]

Copper goes brittle the more it's bent. It stands to reason that vibration will wiggle it, making it brittle over time. That said, I've never had a problem with it. And it doesn't rust. Also, copper is much easier to bend and form flares.

I think the trick is to ensure it's securely held against the car. Any movement will cause copper to fail prematurely, but nothing is permanent. How long are you expecting the car to last?

[loely]

The trick to soften copper lines ( or anny copper things) is to heat them up around the temp. for applying tin soldering Not red glowing!!!) and to poor some cold water on it.
It will be like new again,but this softening degrades slowly,so the line will not stay soft for a year but you can easy rebend it till to the needed shape.If needed repeat it.
I don't know back in UK but here we only have 5mm line witch is just a little te thin to clamp .It needs a bit more care making the unions.

[dunnydave]

Simply use the correct material which is copper nickel alloy and widely available .

Why would your use pure copper for hydraulic brake pipes when its clearly prone to work hardening and subsequently fracturing ?

Pure copper as a material for brake pipes is banned in many countries for this reason


https://www.copper.org/applications/...ube/brake.html

[loely]

When I look at the brake lines the car manufactory uses and see after some years how dangerous that line becomes and knowing that LPG only allows the use off copper lines insulated with some plastic cover becouse it resistance to cold/warm ,vibrating and preventing from braking after a crash I would say copper line insulated with plastic will not be dangerous at high pressure,harding and rupture.If you want top be realy safe use tha AIROQUIP hoses for airplanes and racing cars.Only it is to expesive for the working man.

[canis]

Originally Posted by dunnydave

Why would your use pure copper for hydraulic brake pipes when its clearly prone to work hardening and subsequently fracturing ?

Because I've been using it for years without experiencing this fracturing problem, nickel ones aren't infallible anywaym and it's easier to work with.