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700/900 Series General Forum for the Volvo 740, 760, 780, 940, 960 & S/V90 cars |
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excessive crankingViews : 1896 Replies : 24Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Jan 19th, 2011, 01:00 | #11 |
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Hi,
Sounds about the same as mine too. It might be worth checking your fuel rail pressure after the cars is standing for a while to see where it is settling. Certainly not something to be too worried about though. Des. . .
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Jan 20th, 2011, 01:45 | #12 |
big d.motorsports
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maybe fuel check valve
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Jan 20th, 2011, 03:49 | #13 |
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cold cranking
From cold, turn the ignition on for 4 seconds and off for 4 seconds 3 times without turning the starter motor, this will activate the fuel pump , and pressurise the fuel rail.
If then on the 4th turn you turn the key on and to the starter motor position and it fires up straight away, you have an answer. It's either an injector leaking down while the car is swiched off, or the non return valve in the fuel feed side is malfunctioning, or the fse is leaking down on the return side. I think ! |
Jan 20th, 2011, 03:57 | #14 |
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further thought
If it is an injector leeking, it must be sorted right away.
The affected cyllinder will eventually loose compression from having its oil effectively washed away whilst standing by the petrol so that when it starts up there is little residual lubrication and the rings will scrape metal on metal. This used to be a real hassle on early k-jetronic equiped engines , not so much now with electrically opened "modern" injectors. |
Jan 20th, 2011, 10:46 | #15 | |
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Quote:
And you certainly wouldnt want any lubrication on the rings that create compression in the first place. That's why there is an oil control ring to prevent any oil getting near the first and second. You want that perfect metal-metal seal !! And a leaking injector would cause a missfire on startup due to a single flooded cylinder. Nothing more. But the chances of that are extremely rare. And even if the fuel system doesnt maintain pressure on shut down. It will make virtually no difference to how long the engine takes to start, as the instant you key on, the pump primes anyway. |
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Jan 21st, 2011, 23:28 | #16 | |
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You are nearly correct but
Quote:
The top 2 rings are there to maintain compression from the combustion process, thats why they are shaped the way they are, the oil control ring is there to remove "windage" splash from the bore, both upwards and downwards. Thats why it is 2 thin rings with a helicoil mesh between that drains the oil through the skirt back via holes in the piston on that ring landing only. Rubbish oil can block these holes and cause smokey engines. It is basically the only thing oil additives remove as they are just a shot of detergent. 2 stroke engines do not have the oil ring as they are a dry crankcase, some very long stroke engines have 3 compression rings as they have problems with induced angle during the stroke leading to wobble which this set up can help. |
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Jan 21st, 2011, 23:48 | #17 |
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Not sure what relevance that post has ?
As I said, the engine would need to be in a very dire state to be losing compression from a little fuel in the cylinder. And I'd imagine any miniscule layer of oil if it did exist on the bore walls, would soon burn off during combustion. So it may be a dirty/clean process every cycle to a very small degree. But the top ring is the main combustion seal. The second ring wouldnt provide much seal, but it would provide the final clean function for any traces of oil. Often it is shaped as a sharp edged scraper too. If the rings/pistons did get contaminated by oil, they would soon start sticking and losing their seal through a build of of deposits. Not perfectly good clean rings. The materials the rings are made from, are intended for totally dry operation. No oil should be present, nor would you want it. Which is why the oil/second ring are designed to remove it from the bore wall. In short, a little fuel washing the bore clean will do no harm, and certainly wont cause any engine to lose compression such that it will effect starting. It may soak the plug which could affect starting, but that's a different issue. |
Jan 22nd, 2011, 00:25 | #18 |
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relevance
[QUOTE=stevieturbo;822930]Not sure what relevance that post has ?
As I said, the engine would need to be in a very dire state to be losing compression from a little fuel in the cylinder. And I'd imagine any miniscule layer of oil if it did exist on the bore walls, would soon burn off during combustion. Are you imagining from experience ? |
Jan 22nd, 2011, 16:58 | #19 | |
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[QUOTE=Diesel-do-nicely;822957]
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Have you ? |
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Jan 24th, 2011, 00:14 | #20 | ||||
Pain in the backside
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Quote:
As for mine, Is the same as your video... If it takes a long time, One more thing that might make it take a while is a leaky injector. Dripping fuel into the cylinder essentially 'Flooding' it! |
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