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7 years in storage- 360 glt

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Old Feb 17th, 2009, 09:27   #11
Citizen.Agfa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pettaw View Post
The sunroof leaks because basically most of them do.....it was not a good design even when fairly new and working properly, and now with time and age, even worse, I'm afraid. You might still be able to get a new seal to fit round it to see if that helps. Also if it still works properly, then slide it all the way back and clear out any rubbish from the drainage channels down the side.
It is a common misconception that the furry seal round the edge of a steel sunroof is there to stop water - it is not, it is there to stop wind noise. All sliding sunroofs have drainage channels for the removal of water via the sides/rear of the car. Ergo, if the sunroof leaks then the drainage channels are blocked.

Good luck with the revival, any trad Volvo is worth saving.

C.A.
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Old Feb 17th, 2009, 22:49   #12
Steve940estate
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Hi
Glad to hear you have got the car running after such a long time. Things to watch out for though.
Brakes. They will probably need the fluid changing but check the flexible hoses before going too far. Sounds like they will need some work if they are stuck anyway.

Radiator and heater hoses. Check the hoses as they don't last too well when left unused.

Tyres. Might be flat spotted where they have been standing and might have perished and or gone hard.

The biggest problem is pretty much anything rubber. I haven't worked on 360's much but it might be worth looking at the fuel lines as well just to see what state they are in.
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Old Feb 17th, 2009, 23:50   #13
JASPERSILUS
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Question cambelt cost?

Got a qoute today from my regular garage, cambelt and all pullies and tensioners fitted £160 inc vat, does this sound reasonable? or how difficult would it be to change it myself? GSF do a cambelt and tensioner for £25, is this all thats required? the cambelt and all the bits were changed 15000 miles ago at the Volvo dealer, but that was 1996, is it just the belt that perishes or is it the other bits too?
As you can tell I know nothing!

Any help is greatly appreciated.
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Old Feb 17th, 2009, 23:54   #14
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Got a qoute today from my regular garage, cambelt and all pullies and tensioners fitted £160 inc vat, does this sound reasonable?
Very reasonable, and for that price, worth getting done by the garage

Deffo wouldnt think about doing it yourself unless your sure of what your doing, and for that price, its worth getting the garage to do it for you, even if its just for peace of mind
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Old Feb 18th, 2009, 00:23   #15
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Default Slight judder?

Ive been reading the forum, and it seems that really clean low mileage 360 GLTs are not too common now, which makes me want to keep mine a minter, the interior is pretty much as new, the only faults being the drivers side door handle ( the cup thingy that you put your fingers in, not the door opening lever) has the lip cracked, and the heated seats dont work.
There is a rust spot on the sunroof, and another on the front of the bonnet, all of which is an easy fix, it even has the supplying dealers protective stickers on the scuff plates.

Sorry going on again!

There is a slight judder on tickover and also a little hesitation when accelerating, also seems to lack a little power when compared to a friends same model and year 360 glt, even though his had twice the mileage, also the exhaust seems to smell a little rich.

Any more ideas would once again be greatly appreciated!


cheers
Jason.

Last edited by JASPERSILUS; Feb 18th, 2009 at 00:36. Reason: missed a word
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Old Feb 18th, 2009, 00:44   #16
pettaw
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Yeah, timing belt spec on these is 4 years, 48,000 miles. As timing belts go, its not a difficult job because the engine is round the 'correct' way and so you can pretty well get at everything you need to without major dismantling. However, if you don't get everything lined up properly then the engine won't start again, so if you feel unsure probably best to leave it to someone else, and for that price, its not bad at all. What I would do though, is ask them to use proper Volvo parts. If they're reluctant then you go and buy them at the dealer. The genuine belt I think you get change from 10 quid and I think the tensioner was about 30 quid. The genuine belt was cheaper than I got quoted at the motor factor

It probably needs a good run and then a tune up and then see what's going on. The injectors will be a little sticky from all the non-use, and the valves too, but they should clean up in time.

The plastic cups for the inside door handle....rare as hen's teeth to find one that's not damaged or cracked I'm afraid. Its a case of scouring scrappys and auto-jumbles.

Last edited by pettaw; Feb 18th, 2009 at 01:24.
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Old Feb 18th, 2009, 16:28   #17
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Default Timeing belt

Hi mate.
The Haynes manual give streight forward instructions on doing this job.I was able to do it myself and saved myself a fortune in garage fees.Make sure you change the two fan belts at the same time.
Cheers Mark.
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Old Feb 18th, 2009, 17:06   #18
JASPERSILUS
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Talking fan belts?

Thanks Mark,
I have been considering doing the job myself, but have decided against it, as if it was done wrong, Id need someone to hit, and Id look daft hitting myself!
My question is when the garage is changing the timing belt etc will they have to remove the fan belts also, my thinking been that they can put the new ones on without charge, as they would have to put the old ones back on anyway!, then maybe Id feel I was getting my 160 quids worth!
Sorry, one more question, having opened the boot today, the tailgate struts have failed, leading to strong left arm or sore head, any one have any ideas where I might get these?
Cheers
Jason

Last edited by JASPERSILUS; Feb 18th, 2009 at 17:12. Reason: extra question
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Old Feb 18th, 2009, 19:54   #19
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Brand new ones are available for Eurocar parts but iirc FoggyJames does have used ones which I am in dire need of.
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Old Feb 18th, 2009, 21:20   #20
JASPERSILUS
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Default Lube?

Hi ,
Ive been reading the forum, so I know that the engine takes 10w40 oil, but there seems to be confusion about whats best for the gearbox and diff, I appreciate that what the manual says may not get the best results, what I really want to know is what other people are actually using, and how its working for them, (not what they think or have heard, this is not evidence),
thanks for any replies
cheers Jason
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