Generally what’s the most likely cause of tear siting low

[Othen]

Originally Posted by 2011dandd

Hi guys as the title suggests.....
What is the most likely cause for the rear of my 240 estate sitting very low even without load?
I have read that rear trailing arm bushes could be likely. But do the springs start to loose there spring?

Cheers

Try these (for free) and see if they solve the issue if you like:

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showp...23&postcount=1

You could have these swapped over in an hour… you are just down the road from Corby del Sol.



Addendum: I’ve just noticed the OP was nearly 4 years ago - silly me!

[360beast]

Originally Posted by Richard240

Reading this thread I fear I've had my shock absorbers replaced incorrectly and feeling pretty stupid about it...

Last year I had fitted two pairs of new Bilstein B4 shock absorbers from Autodoc to the front and rear because of an MOT failure. He fitted the B4s and we have had a saggy backside ever since. I carry heavy loads regularly and at night get other drivers flashing their lights at me assuming I'm on full beam!

The mechanic (not a Volvo expert) noted the old rear shocks were much chunkier, and I suspect now may have been self levelling ones. I have attached a picture of the old shock absorber. Does anyone recognise this? Might it be a Nivomat?

What are my options to fix the sag (picture attached of the saggy car yesterday loaded heavily with nine 70 litre sacks of bark chippings and my father in law in the rear seat)?
1. Stick with the weak shocks and upgrade the rear springs. If so, to what?
2. Find some Nivomats and switch the shocks back to more what they were like?
3. Get different shocks?

My priority is making sure the car drives comfortably and safely, no need for a big upgrade or changing it's ride height from standard. But I'm enduring a big downgrade at the moment.

Thanks for any thoughts.

Richard

https://www.partsforvolvosonline.com...0057bdc0b18767

Those should sort you out

[classicswede]

Originally Posted by Othen

Try these (for free) and see if they solve the issue if you like:

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showp...23&postcount=1

You could have these swapped over in an hour… you are just down the road from Corby del Sol.

!

They are saloon springs so too soft for an estate

[classicswede]

If you always carry weight then fixed rate heavy duty springs will sort you out https://www.classicswede.org/shop/hd...=6060e3abd7a69

if you are sometimes empty and sometimes loaded then the progressive springs will be just the ticket https://www.classicswede.org/shop/pr...=6060e3abd7a69

If you want new standard springs the nearest you can get are a little stiffer and lower about 20mm so you either have to swap the fronts to match or add the spacers

[Richard240]

Thanks so much. Much as I'd like to revert to Nivomat's, E1000 plus import tax is prohibitively expensive, so I'll take your advice and go with stiffer springs to compensate for the standard Bilsteins. It may even surprise me and feel better than the 31 year old Nivomats.

[classicswede]

They will certainly cope with the weight better

[Bob Meadows]

Some time back I advertised a pair of self levelling shock absorbers that came off my friends 240:~ very good condition body wise- gaiters need replacing as do the rubber bush eyes, these also have the removable bottom end for renewing the fluid (done) no response to this on the forum so still with me.
----------------------------------- " ----------------------------------

Anyway: on my car it has the normal rear suspension (standard) but I had never been happy with the rear stance- even with new springs-it was too low.
My solution was/is to purchase a billet of aluminium to match the diameter of the flat plate that the spring sits on (I used round but can be done in a square section)
The above is drilled through to take a heavy duty H.T. bolt that passes through the same, the original inner spring plate has the spline fitting knocked out to take the longer bolt.
From memory the new spacer is approximately one and a half inches deep.. could be two with the O.D. being the equivalent of the suspension flat plate that the spring sits on. (you can experiment with the spacer if you wish)

You need to make sure that the shock absorbers can open to the new height adjustment without hitting the top stop area- they can vary.

The above has been fine for me for many years of service without any noticeable changes in the actions of the suspension: a spacer may be a solution here? and not expensive to do.
(The car now sits better & looks correct)

Trust the above gives some further ideas or options.
Bob.

[Jungle_Jim]

Originally Posted by Bob Meadows

My solution was/is to purchase a billet of aluminium to match the diameter of the flat plate that the spring sits on (I used round but can be done in a square section)
The above is drilled through to take a heavy duty H.T. bolt that passes through the same, the original inner spring plate has the spline fitting knocked out to take the longer bolt.

Bob
Out of interest - off topic - have you noticed any galvanic corrosion in the aluminium plates in contact with the rest of the suspension? After seeing the damage done to 240 Ally bumper bars where they contact the bolts and mounts, this is clearly a significant problem.
John

[Jungle_Jim]

This ground has been covered before - but - it's relevant here:

Has anyone got rear cargo springs, and if so, are they that bad when the back is empty? It gets said the rear becomes bouncy and skittish unladen.

I went to standard springs/shocks/anti-sway-bar (240 estate) a few years ago after a Nivomat leaked so I swapped over to standard - and if there's no load in back, it's not a problem, the rear height is ok, and ride is good.

But I do also occasionally have to move heavy stuff around (say 100kg of compost bags), or there's people in the back plus a bit of luggage - and the rear end goes too low. I have a tow-bar, but really wouldn't fancy doing any towing with it.

Or does anyone use pumpable air-shocks - that would be a way to adjust according to use.

John

[Bob Meadows]

Originally Posted by Jungle_Jim

Bob
Out of interest - off topic - have you noticed any galvanic corrosion in the aluminium plates in contact with the rest of the suspension? After seeing the damage done to 240 Ally bumper bars where they contact the bolts and mounts, this is clearly a significant problem.
John

John:~
No nothing at all, the suspension parts have a heavy coverage of waxoly so that probably helps (the through bolt is also stainless but again well coated in the wax) you could always use a heavy duty gasket made from the likes of M.D.P.E. sheet-but although I have this material it is not used.

The car had just passed the MOT the other day so whilst on the ramp I took a closer look to remind myself- I used a round bar but just below the base of the springs is a further flat heavy duty plate (stainless again) just to make sure that the springs sat correctly etc, been on the car for at least two years now.

This idea came from the use of Polyurethane deep spacers that are available for raising the suspension when towing (not sure if they are still available) the price for these was/is daft hence the change to this option that is far cheaper with flexibility in what height you choose.
Hope it helps.
Regards Bob.

PS the corrosion on the 240 alloy bumpers can be greatly reduced or eliminated
if a gasket is incorporated between the two metals- again a heavy coat of waxoyl is used.