JJs Project Thread - 240 GL Estate

[Moomoo]

Originally Posted by Problemchild1976

I could have (and will) do it way better in the future if the car stays with me

JJ

Ok for now bud.

I hope once it’s how you want it you keep it, it look a nice motor.😀😎

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Problemchild1976

I could have (and will) do it way better in the future if the car stays with me

JJ

Good for another 15 years now :-)

[Bob Meadows]

Rust in these areas is a problem on the 240:~
During your deeper inspections it is worthwhile removing the bumper (not difficult in itself) the underside has a lip section that is very prone to rust plus the body section that continues under- the rear plastic trim that runs from the wheel arch and around the rear also needs checking for the hidden body metal.

Some very good restoration pictures exist on the forum if you search.
The aluminum trim that is visible as you open the tailgate is quite easily removed for a further check into the boot area, this will also give you access into the box section for any required rust treatments.
Good Luck
Regards Bob.

[Moomoo]

Originally Posted by Problemchild1976

I could have (and will) do it way better in the future if the car stays with me

JJ

Originally Posted by Bob Meadows

Rust in these areas is a problem on the 240:~
During your deeper inspections it is worthwhile removing the bumper (not difficult in itself) the underside has a lip section that is very prone to rust plus the body section that continues under- the rear plastic trim that runs from the wheel arch and around the rear also needs checking for the hidden body metal.

Some very good restoration pictures exist on the forum if you search.
The aluminum trim that is visible as you open the tailgate is quite easily removed for a further check into the boot area, this will also give you access into the box section for any required rust treatments.
Good Luck
Regards Bob.

Very valid piece of information.

This described corrosion can manifest itself inside an estate ,in the well under the false floor. The box section that the aluminium strike plate screws to.
Just check an inch or so over the lip.

[Problemchild1976]

Awesome info both

Wheel well is spotless but I’ve not got under very far yet

JJ

[foggyjames]

Sounds like you have a solid plan lined up!

I can also confirm that this a problem area which needs more extensive investigation for a permanent (or at permanent as these things ever can be) fix. Worth it, eventually, given where 240 prices are going!

cheers

James

[Problemchild1976]

Potentially looking to underseal the rear arches and anything else that looks bad

Got to fix the clutch first

I will prob take the drivers seat out as well as there is a bit of play in it

JJ

[Bob Meadows]

Prior to underseal being used:~
Just in case you are not aware- traditional underseal is now surpassed so I would look at the alternatives, Bilt Hamber do a range but I'm sure other members will give recommendations.

The metal needs to be de-rusted properly prior to any further treatments being used- if the basic treatment is done properly then the rest will last.
You will also find some information on the forum regarding rear liners this is one of the better moves in preserving the arches & associated areas.
Good Luck with the car-- nice to see another being looked after!
Regards Bob.

[Problemchild1976]

Originally Posted by Bob Meadows

You will also find some information on the forum regarding rear liners this is one of the better moves in preserving the arches & associated areas.
Good Luck with the car-- nice to see another being looked after!
Regards Bob.

Oooh - rear liners! Now you have my attention

JJ

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Problemchild1976

Oooh - rear liners! Now you have my attention

JJ

Aftermarket 240 rear arch liners are quite expensive - but I understand very good. 740/940 liners are as cheap as chips and can be made to fit pretty well:

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showp...postcount=2523

... I'd say they are a good investment for maybe £20-£30.


Alan