Heater resistor woes

[2000V40]

Hi all, i've just changed the little transistor(?) in the heater resistor hoping it would help my blowers realise they are meant to be a helpful addition, but no luck .. i had the heater console out the other day and cleaned the contacts etc, this seems to have helped in terms of toggling the a/c on and off at will, but didn't do anything in regards to controlling fan speeds or getting the fans to click in at all.

i do have warm air coming through the vents, but only when driving/accelerating making demisting and "quick" heating of the car all but a dream atm. Could anyone point me in the direction of what to check next before I start looking for a new resistor itself?

Replaced the thermostat as well which helped bring the temperature of the air coming through the vents up a lot faster when car is running, but it would be nice to have some output from the blowers on wet days and for blasting out cold air when summer arrives, so any help/ideas are much appreciated!
Cheers!

[pierremcalpine]

is the blower working erratically or is it just not getting good power out? If it's the former, before doing anything with your CCM, try quickly turning the fan speed knob left to right and back about 20 times to see if that makes a difference.

If it's the latter, the foam that seals the gaps between the vents behind the dash may have disintegrated. I'm not the expert on that but there are a few posts in here that tell you how to address.

[2000V40]

Originally Posted by pierremcalpine

is the blower working erratically or is it just not getting good power out? If it's the former, before doing anything with your CCM, try quickly turning the fan speed knob left to right and back about 20 times to see if that makes a difference.

If it's the latter, the foam that seals the gaps between the vents behind the dash may have disintegrated. I'm not the expert on that but there are a few posts in here that tell you how to address.

it's not blowing at all, i.e. regardless of what setting i turn the fan dial to, nothing can be heard. I had one random day over Christmas where it blew like there was no tomorrow, but sadly for the fan, that was actually true! I did have the whole dash module the other day and cleaned all the contacts and dusted off dials and switches etc, the only difference it made was that i can now turn the a/c on/off, rather than it just going on off when moved away from 0. I did read a few posts about the foam seals, i just can't bring myself to dismantle the whole dash to get to them

[pierremcalpine]

Originally Posted by 2000V40

it's not blowing at all, i.e. regardless of what setting i turn the fan dial to, nothing can be heard. I had one random day over Christmas where it blew like there was no tomorrow, but sadly for the fan, that was actually true! I did have the whole dash module the other day and cleaned all the contacts and dusted off dials and switches etc, the only difference it made was that i can now turn the a/c on/off, rather than it just going on off when moved away from 0. I did read a few posts about the foam seals, i just can't bring myself to dismantle the whole dash to get to them

Can you hear it blowing?

Assuming you can't:
1) you need to validate that your transistor fix was in fact successful

2) Assuming it was you have three choices (as far as I'm guessing): 1) replace the CCM with a new one (very pricey), 2) replace the CCM with a used one good value BUT this issue is common so you may find (like I did) that the one get get eventually exhibits similar symptoms), 3) you get your hands on a replacement POT and solder a new one in.

Honestly, having eventually gone with option #3 myself, I would be tempted to first try option #2. A) with a small outlay of cash you will be able to confirm whether or not a different CCM even makes a difference for your plight. B) Finding a new POT is a bit of a pain (but doable). However once you solder it it, you will need to make some manual adjustments to make it work correctly. Apparently they are calibrated in the factory to ensure that they all work in the same way. This will involve holding a lighter up to the plastic spindle of the dial and melting it until you can slightly twist it so that fan speed changes the way you want it to. Honestly I keep mine on auto so I just had to twist it enough that it reacted correct to that.

I hope this helps.

[2000V40]

Originally Posted by pierremcalpine

Can you hear it blowing?

Assuming you can't:
1) you need to validate that your transistor fix was in fact successful

2) Assuming it was you have three choices (as far as I'm guessing): 1) replace the CCM with a new one (very pricey), 2) replace the CCM with a used one good value BUT this issue is common so you may find (like I did) that the one get get eventually exhibits similar symptoms), 3) you get your hands on a replacement POT and solder a new one in.

Honestly, having eventually gone with option #3 myself, I would be tempted to first try option #2. A) with a small outlay of cash you will be able to confirm whether or not a different CCM even makes a difference for your plight. B) Finding a new POT is a bit of a pain (but doable). However once you solder it it, you will need to make some manual adjustments to make it work correctly. Apparently they are calibrated in the factory to ensure that they all work in the same way. This will involve holding a lighter up to the plastic spindle of the dial and melting it until you can slightly twist it so that fan speed changes the way you want it to. Honestly I keep mine on auto so I just had to twist it enough that it reacted correct to that.

I hope this helps.

can't really hear it at all, although i can hear the demister/heated mirrors & rear window clicking when toggling on or off.. I can only feel the hot air coming through when accelerating/at a steady pace, so fine if doing a run on the motorway/dual carriage way. Once you come off the accelerator the air flow drops away again. I'm guessing it will be a matter of exploring point 2.2/2.3 then. Thanks for the input and info!

[dmiller]

If you short together the two wires going to the heater resistor (I used a cable between the points in the plug on the loom for it) the motor should come on at full speed. If it does this perhaps your previous fix want fully successful?

David.