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S40 / V40 '96-'04 General Forum for the Volvo S40 and V40 (Classic) Series from 1995-2004. |
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S-40 1.9d 66kw 1997y. cold start problemViews : 3687 Replies : 29Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Dec 17th, 2014, 23:35 | #11 |
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I am not 100% sure but most good garages should be able to read most of the codes using licensed specific software for their hi-tec code reader.
This may not read and describe all the codes that volvos own software will. You can get the software and diagnostic equipment on ebay but the diesel car ECU will only talk to the good copies of volvos equipment. If you search the forum for VIDA and DICE you will find a lot about it. Someone posted about a good setup to buy very recently so if you look through the last few pages of threads you may see it.
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Dec 18th, 2014, 00:18 | #12 | |
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Quote:
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Dec 22nd, 2014, 09:42 | #13 |
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So, I got a codes. Thera tree codes- 1.intake air temperature. 2.HO2s- lamda zond 3. Acelerator pedal sensor. Also they tryed to clean errors, but dont can. But mechanic says, that those errors cant influance enginen work so much. So , i have nothink at now.
Last edited by lauztuvas; Dec 22nd, 2014 at 09:55. |
Dec 22nd, 2014, 20:56 | #14 |
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Fitting a new set of (decent brand) glowplugs might improve things.
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Dec 22nd, 2014, 21:16 | #15 | |
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I am thinking that of the faults listed, Intake Air Temperature is the most relevant to a cold-start problem
If its misreporting temperature, the car might be trying to do hotstarts when cold and as such would probably fail to spin up The original post reports that it will start with the accelerator depressed. Which indicates it is too lean at startup, and underfuelling. Which leads me to think, fuel injection fault or incorrect temperature reading.. Quote:
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'98 Saab 9-3 2.3i Conv owner. Former keeper of 1996 Saab 900iS 2.0 conv, 2001 V40 2.0i, 1999 Mondeo TD, 1995 Mondeo TD, 1990 Passat GT16v, 1983 Passat 1.8CL Last edited by DXMachina; Dec 22nd, 2014 at 21:20. |
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Dec 22nd, 2014, 21:35 | #16 |
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Yes. At now i was reading VADIS. In this program also says that can be problems with cold starting engine then air sensor is dead. Also is increasing NOx . This sencor is Regulating EGR.
So meaby some can say how to check this sensor? BEcauce may be sensor or wiring between sensor and ECM. |
Dec 24th, 2014, 16:08 | #17 |
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Hi i change intake air temperature sensor, but there are no good news. Everythink (symtoms) are same as was before. But now i Want to wish Merry Christmas for all forum members.
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Jan 11th, 2015, 09:20 | #18 |
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I made another errors test. I the same erros. But now i clear it. And no errrors in CEM. So to day is +2celcius in my coutry. My car started well without acelerator depresing. Then it started, it was work fine abouth 5-10 seconds. After whose seconds enginen begin let blue smoke, enginen speed(rpm) became not equal (abouth 100rpm up and down), no errors o milf lamp. So i turn of car, and started again- symtoms gone for while. But if enginen is in normal temperature, hot- no these symtoms at all- everythink is fine. Meaby to much blue smoke if i push acelerator suddenly. But that its, no more problems. So meaby some one have some suggestions abouth my intrestings problems. Thaks
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Jan 11th, 2015, 11:33 | #19 |
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Possibly glow plug related but unlikely, best way to check is with a current clamp around the thick wire leading to the plugs, but if you don't have one you can also check with a normal multimeter, by disconnecting the glow plugs & checking the resistance between each plug's terminal and earth. I'm not sure of the exact reading to look for but generally if a plug is working it will show resistance but if it's failed it will display an open circuit.
Another thing that worries me (more so than the glow plugs) is the low compression on cylinder #1, 20 bar versus 26 bar is about 85psi difference so that cylinder is WELL down on compression if the reading is true. I would re-check the compression and see if it really is that low. If it is, I would suggest removing the tester, adding 2 squirts (approx. 1 TEA spoon full, no more) of 10w40 engine oil from an oil can, down the hole & reconnecting the tester to check again, if the reading is now much more like the others then the fault is with piston rings/bore wear, if it is unchanged then the fault is either a valve or head/gasket failure.
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(current) '06 P2 S80 D5 SE LUX, Met. Gold/Black leather, 200k (past)'99 P1.5 V40 SE 1.8 (1731cc), Metallic Peacock Blue-Green, Black Leather, Winter Pack. 101k (past) '88 340 GL 1.7, gifted to me with "slipping clutch" that was a sticky linkage Last edited by ma70; Jan 11th, 2015 at 11:35. |
Jan 11th, 2015, 12:57 | #20 |
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About glow plung- i was tested it 2 weeks ago- all was good (these symtoms was then). glow plungs i am testing with bulb. I bring one H4 bulb - bouth "+" contact to one and to baterry "+" , bulb "-" contact to glow plung "+" contact. If bulb shine- plung is good. This test metod i am using always on my cars.
ANother thing, which i cant understand- why enginen 5-10 seconds after start ca work good, and only after those secons enginen change to bad side like i say in early post. ALso abouth head gasket- imposible that compresions goes to enginen oils hole? Becauce, like i hear, almost always compresion goes to enginet colant if there is head gasket fail. |
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