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Running out of ideas - sticky rearD/S brake

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Old Jun 24th, 2016, 23:00   #1
V40IRL
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Default Running out of ideas - sticky rearD/S brake

Hi all, as it says, been at this brake for a while as it keeps warping on me. Everything was very bad in there, handbrake spring was weak, very slow piston that would stick on mostly, but not all the time. Cleaned up and filed the pad holder, bought brand new caliper. All fine the last few days bar today i could hear it catching once again, and then worked its way off itself and then i could hear it again pulling into the drive.. Next step is new fluid as there is a fair bit of sh#te in the line when i was bleeding it. Would yee think the old fluid could be making the brand new caliper stick just a tiny bit on? New H/brake cables?
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Old Jun 24th, 2016, 23:15   #2
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Just found a thread there on brake fluid and silt in it, i also have the problem of when i hold the brake it feels like its going to the floor very slowly. Very good thread, credit finch. Sounds dangerous going to change fluid immediately and look at the slave cylinder and pump. The pump is the big round thing that says reno on the right side of rocker?
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Old Jun 25th, 2016, 05:16   #3
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Do you have a link to that thread? I'd like to read it.

The pump (if you mean the vacuum pump) is a big black round thing mounted on the bulkhead behind the engine from the perspective of standing in front of the car looking into the engine bay with the bonnet open, towards one side (since it sits above the brake pedal) so opposite for left-hand drive. It works by vacuum pressure, generated from the inlet manifold, via a stiff pipe connecting the two.

As for slave cylinders, there are four - one in each caliper. So I presume you mean the master cylinder, which is basically a metal tube mounted on the vacuum pump with metal hydraulic pipes leading off. On top of that is the reservoir containing extra brake fluid to compensate for brake wear.

As for the pedal travelling slowly to the floor, there are two possible reasons. If there is a leak somewhere, evidenced by brake fluid on the floor (although not necessarilly - it could be absorbing into rusty components and evaporating away, but it'll look wet so look around for it) and a loss of fluid in the reservoir (definitely), then the leak needs fixing. If fluid is not being lost, and the reservoir level stays constant (save for brake wear over months and months) then the master cylinder is faulty, probably the seals are worn.

Sticking rear calipers was the first problem we had with our V40, bought second hand, and despite two sets of new calipers since then the problem innevitably returns. The handbrake mechanism (on the caliper) seems to foul up and cease retracting, despite the spring. Drowning it in WD40 works, but it's only a temporary fix.

Last edited by canis; Jun 25th, 2016 at 05:27. Reason: completeness
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Old Jun 25th, 2016, 15:28   #4
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Thanks for the reply Canis and apologies for the late reply.
Heres the link

http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=62383


I for sure have no leak as the fluid in the reservoir isn't moving and ive been at the brakes so much im hawk eyed on it. Im going to change the fluid Monday and rid an of the silt in the system. Would anyone have links for buying new master cylinder and an upgraded vacuum pump on the side of the rocker cover?
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Old Jun 25th, 2016, 15:59   #5
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It might turn out to be cheaper and safer to drive slowly on Sunday morning to your local Indy Iffystop shop, rather than slowly replacing the entire braking system with used parts.

PS: Just had a slow speed sidewall blowout of an expensive rear tyre on my fully rice tuned 2004 Renault Twingo 1.2 (16 valves and no less).
It's an almost new Conti winter tyre (XXX/YY/14) fitted to a spotless OEM alloy, made in forkin Germany and fully TUV Sud approved.
So I'm seriously miffed!
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Old Jun 25th, 2016, 16:23   #6
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Thanks skyship, i am replacing everything i replace with new parts, only thing i havnt is the bracket that holds pads and caliper, but as i said i filed down the roughness and gave it a little grease where the pads sit, imo it doesnt need a new one!... iffyshop?
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Old Jun 25th, 2016, 17:06   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V40IRL View Post
everything i replace with new parts
Which makes not changing the fluid more surprising.

Crap fluid = crap brakes, however new the hardware is.
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Old Jun 25th, 2016, 17:26   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cheshired5 View Post
Which makes not changing the fluid more surprising.

Crap fluid = crap brakes, however new the hardware is.
I know it should have been done long ago
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Old Jun 25th, 2016, 17:30   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cheshired5 View Post
Which makes not changing the fluid more surprising.

Crap fluid = crap brakes, however new the hardware is.
True but here in the EU near the non Euro Swaziland, they never change brake fluid unless it fails the pH test which is used to figure out how much brake fluid is in the water. Might be the other way around.

My Twingo needed new front discs, so my local Indy did test the brake fluid and it failed big time, although the brakes seemed OK according to BD (Butt Decelerometer), squeel, pull and ABS pulse rate test drive.
It was hunting slightly during light braking and the discs were looking a tad like dear old Angela and Cameroon did today in Die Bild (Very like the Sun paper), well forked up.
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Old Jun 25th, 2016, 17:38   #10
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Originally Posted by skyship007 View Post
.

PS: Just had a slow speed sidewall blowout of an expensive rear tyre on my fully rice tuned 2004 Renault Twingo 1.2 (16 valves and no less).
It's an almost new Conti winter tyre (XXX/YY/14) fitted to a spotless OEM alloy, made in forkin Germany and fully TUV Sud approved.
So I'm seriously miffed!
If theyre 14s Is the wall big or are they low pros? You could have caught a kerb without knowing and just peeled with the pressure and went.. Dunno man usually youd see a bulge
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