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Removing 164 back seat?

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Old Nov 19th, 2010, 23:18   #1
Lesky
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Default Removing 164 back seat?

I did search for this but only came up with John H's resto project. My green manual doesn't cover this either and fiddling around in the car, I wasn't able to find any hooks, bolts, or snaps holding the the seat down.

What's the proper way to remove the back seat and the back shelf behind it?
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Old Nov 19th, 2010, 23:24   #2
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You can't remove the parcel shelf, other than the carpet covering it. It is part of the structure of the car. Rear seat is easy. Pull the front edge of the seat base upwards and the base comes out. You'll now see 2 bendy tags holding the back down. Release the seat back from these and lift the back upwards to remove it from the car. (There are 2 hooks through the parcel shelf)
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Old Nov 19th, 2010, 23:26   #3
john h
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It can sometimes be reluctant to move... some force may be required

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Old Nov 19th, 2010, 23:29   #4
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It helps to push the seat base back as you lift the front if it is reluctant.
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Old Nov 23rd, 2010, 02:45   #5
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I tried to remove the seat base as mentioned, but to no avail. I peeked underneath and noticed a hook holding down the back middle of the seat. So, do I just need to apply more force? Is the seat base rigid enough to handle it?

Also, I am stripping out most of the interior because I have a rusty patch on the left C pillar that I need to have fixed. So I need to pull off the door cards. Does anyone know how to remove the window winders? My book says to press back the outer ring and then press down on the winder to loosen the clip holding it in. Can anyone confirm this? I don't want to break my winder.

Thanks in advance.
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Old Nov 23rd, 2010, 03:08   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lesky View Post
I tried to remove the seat base as mentioned, but to no avail. I peeked underneath and noticed a hook holding down the back middle of the seat. So, do I just need to apply more force? Is the seat base rigid enough to handle it?
Yes, you need sufficient force to flex the seat base enough for it to unhook. It is an annoying fixing!

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Originally Posted by Lesky View Post
Also, I am stripping out most of the interior because I have a rusty patch on the left C pillar that I need to have fixed. So I need to pull off the door cards. Does anyone know how to remove the window winders? My book says to press back the outer ring and then press down on the winder to loosen the clip holding it in. Can anyone confirm this? I don't want to break my winder.

Thanks in advance.
Press the black plastic trim away from the winder handle. In the gap created, you will see a spring clip which needs to be opened up to allow the winder to slide off the splines.

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Old Nov 23rd, 2010, 10:08   #7
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Further to john h's advice, Sykes-Pickavant make a clip removal tool for the door handle/window winder handles. When I got one I couldn't for the life of me see how it could make an awkward job any easier, but it did!

However, before I got it I had to remove trim cards on 164s and Amazons quite regularly as we had trouble with the window raise/lower cable tensioning (every few miles the glass dropped down!). I used a slightly bent slotted screwdriver to carefully tap the spring clip tang downwards a small amount until the handle sprung out of engagement with the splines. Don't do it over grass as if the clip drops away, I bet you'll loose it!

Re-assembly is easy: engage the spring clip in the slotted hole in the handle, feed onto the start of the splines and give it a sharp tap with the ball of the hand so the taper on the winder arm opens the clip over the slope until it drops into its groove.

Further on rear seat squab removal, I haven't done it for a while but from memory it may be easier to remove the seat back first. On that the lower outboard corners clip over retaining lugs on the body, but they may also fit over spigots along the rear shelf/ledge, so look in the boot first.

As usual, not easy to describe but far easier in the flesh, providing you don't mind being a bit aggressive! At least its not all fragile plastic clips like on my 740 estate!

Paul
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Old Nov 24th, 2010, 04:42   #8
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Will have a go at it this week and will also snap a few photos to share.
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Old Dec 5th, 2010, 05:02   #9
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I finally got the seat out. I ended up having to push the rear section of the frame out of the hook using a pry bar. Actually went pretty easy.

Here is my main motivation for stripping the interior


The rust doesn't appear to be into the sill, but I'll have to wait and see. I am going to take the paint down and see. If it's not bad, I'll treat it with rust killer, prime, and paint it. If it's beyond that, I'll have to have a shop do the work.

Once I pulled the rear seat I got a good look at my rear wheel wells.
Right
http://i835.photobucket.com/albums/z...t/DSCF0005.jpg

Left


It looks like someone has already done some sort of repair.

I also found some surface rust under the carpet that I am planning on fixing. Hopefully there isn't anymore once I remove all of the carpet.


Does anyone know what the stuff is between the carpet and the floor? Is this sound vibration damping material? Any ideas on how to remove it?
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Last edited by Lesky; Dec 5th, 2010 at 05:08.
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Old Dec 5th, 2010, 08:48   #10
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If it's the thin plastic like patch which is a "vibration damper" Apply some heat to loosen the adhesive and use a paint scraper or similar to prise it up and away. I removed all the stuff from my 144 to check for hidden corrosion
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