1973 Wagon purchase

dkrtgood · Jun 8th, 2009, 22:49

I am looking to purchase a 1973 1800ES with 62,000 original miles. I don't know much about the cars except that I love the design. I am very mechanically capable and I restore muscle cars as a hobby.

Here's what I know

Price $3000.00
Its a 62,000 mile original engine with the "E" head (130 hp)
4 speed with AOD
4 wheel disks
White exterior with blue interior
Factory AC
The body looks to be in good restorable shape as does the glass.

It has been in storage for 10 years and he says that it ran great then but it will not start now. Bad gas...clogged injectors typically he says.

Anyone have a feel for what I should be looking for and is there a way to use starting fluid (SAFELY) just to see if it fires for a second.

Does the 3K seem close to average for this condition vehicle?

Thanks guys in advance for any info you can provide.

capt jack · Jun 9th, 2009, 13:12

Hi there

2 years ago I paid GB£1900 for a non-running but complete rust-free 1800ES auto, so I'd say US$3K is not unreasonable.

Try turning the motor on the main crank pulley to make sure it isn't seized. Take the valve cover and distributor cap off so that you can see if everything appears to move together as it should

The big, big enemy is RUST. Lift the carpets and check the chassis rails and outriggers. Also have a darn good look round the engine bay and door pillars.

Unless you're a real metal-bashing expert restoring a rusty ES can be a nightmare.

Assuming the body rot is minimal, a non starter could simply be a clogged-up fuel pump. Do you hear the pump run for a few seconds when you turn the key? If not the pump is likely seized. It's just behind the rear wheel on the left side of the car.

Get hold of a Haynes manual or similar that covers any Volvo with the B20E engine, and have a good read of the chapter on the D-Jet fuel injection system. Also, track down as much information as you can on the web and on here about the D-Jet system. You will be spending a good deal of time puzzling it's many idiosyncracies!

Remember that if all else fails you can always convert to carbs!

The brake discs/rotors will be rusted, and the calipers seized, but all this is easy to fix. Check the steering box for wear and tear, and the fuel tank for internal rust.

An 1800ES is very rewarding - not many around, looks great, comfortable and quite practical, although the rear seats are strictly for dogs and very small children!

I reckon my ES - now running and roadworthy - has more than doubled in value in the two years I've owned her, but she didn't need any bodywork at all, just mechanical recommissioning.

As I say, the difficult and expensive repairs are those involving the bodywork.

Good luck - hope it works out

Cheers

Jack

Jun 8th, 2009, 22:49	#1
dkrtgood New Member Last Online: Jun 8th, 2009 22:49 Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: St Petersburg Florida	1973 Wagon purchase I am looking to purchase a 1973 1800ES with 62,000 original miles. I don't know much about the cars except that I love the design. I am very mechanically capable and I restore muscle cars as a hobby. Here's what I know Price $3000.00 Its a 62,000 mile original engine with the "E" head (130 hp) 4 speed with AOD 4 wheel disks White exterior with blue interior Factory AC The body looks to be in good restorable shape as does the glass. It has been in storage for 10 years and he says that it ran great then but it will not start now. Bad gas...clogged injectors typically he says. Anyone have a feel for what I should be looking for and is there a way to use starting fluid (SAFELY) just to see if it fires for a second. Does the 3K seem close to average for this condition vehicle? Thanks guys in advance for any info you can provide.

Jun 9th, 2009, 13:12	#2
capt jack VOC Member Last Online: Apr 20th, 2024 18:56 Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Selby, North Yorkshire	Hi there 2 years ago I paid GB£1900 for a non-running but complete rust-free 1800ES auto, so I'd say US$3K is not unreasonable. Try turning the motor on the main crank pulley to make sure it isn't seized. Take the valve cover and distributor cap off so that you can see if everything appears to move together as it should The big, big enemy is RUST. Lift the carpets and check the chassis rails and outriggers. Also have a darn good look round the engine bay and door pillars. Unless you're a real metal-bashing expert restoring a rusty ES can be a nightmare. Assuming the body rot is minimal, a non starter could simply be a clogged-up fuel pump. Do you hear the pump run for a few seconds when you turn the key? If not the pump is likely seized. It's just behind the rear wheel on the left side of the car. Get hold of a Haynes manual or similar that covers any Volvo with the B20E engine, and have a good read of the chapter on the D-Jet fuel injection system. Also, track down as much information as you can on the web and on here about the D-Jet system. You will be spending a good deal of time puzzling it's many idiosyncracies! Remember that if all else fails you can always convert to carbs! The brake discs/rotors will be rusted, and the calipers seized, but all this is easy to fix. Check the steering box for wear and tear, and the fuel tank for internal rust. An 1800ES is very rewarding - not many around, looks great, comfortable and quite practical, although the rear seats are strictly for dogs and very small children! I reckon my ES - now running and roadworthy - has more than doubled in value in the two years I've owned her, but she didn't need any bodywork at all, just mechanical recommissioning. As I say, the difficult and expensive repairs are those involving the bodywork. Good luck - hope it works out Cheers Jack

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