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Any Advice, Part 2!

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Old Aug 14th, 2020, 17:36   #11
Othen
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Originally Posted by Chris152 View Post
Thanks Alan - TBC is a typo, meaning TDC, right?! Newbs here, I actually went looking! It's odd the manual says about needing to check alignment of the number one spark plug terminal on the distributor housing - maybe that's just in case marks on the sprockets or belt housing are missing? And we'll avoid the seals if they look ok, every chance we'll make things worse. :-)

TBC=TDC (my fat fingers).

If you use the camshaft mark then it has to be at TDC for #1; if you use the crank mark it could be for #1 or #4, so you have to check the rotor is at about 8 o'clock to tell the difference - einfach, nicht wahr?

:-)

Alan

Last edited by Othen; Aug 14th, 2020 at 17:39. Reason: Addition.
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Old Aug 15th, 2020, 15:01   #12
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Thanks Alan, alles klar.

Anyone know the answer to no 3?
3. Is my engine interference cylinder head, or non-interference?! Just checking in case we get things wrong - different sites say different things, Haynes says the B230 is interference.
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Old Aug 15th, 2020, 15:36   #13
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Thanks Alan, alles klar.

Anyone know the answer to no 3?
3. Is my engine interference cylinder head, or non-interference?! Just checking in case we get things wrong - different sites say different things, Haynes says the B230 is interference.
Chris,

My understanding is that the carburettor engines have flat topped pistons (lower compression), and are all safe. The fuel injection engines have domed pistons and are interference. This is only what I've read, I've never had a fuel injected Volvo; someone much more knowledgeable than I (like Loki or LS) will know the answer.

To be candid, this is a pretty simple engine: SOHC and just 8 valves, there is no reason to get this wrong. Take your time, check everything and it should be fine.

Alan
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Old Aug 15th, 2020, 16:06   #14
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Point taken, Alan - tbh I think I've watched enough videos and read enough to be able to do it without the manual, so long as all is as its supposed to be. Doesn't stop me doubting myself tho.
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Old Aug 15th, 2020, 18:00   #15
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Chris,

My understanding is that the carburettor engines have flat topped pistons (lower compression), and are all safe. The fuel injection engines have domed pistons and are interference. This is only what I've read, I've never had a fuel injected Volvo; someone much more knowledgeable than I (like Loki or LS) will know the answer.

To be candid, this is a pretty simple engine: SOHC and just 8 valves, there is no reason to get this wrong. Take your time, check everything and it should be fine.

Alan
Not quite.

Vast majority of engines are non-interference. There is one engine spec with a heron head and domed pistons, that’s interference - identifiable as the cylinder head number ends 631.

If a cylinderhead has been removed and skimmed (to make it flat again) more than once it’s possible that will have made the engine interference when it wasn’t previously.

Cambelt replacement- not difficult, just take your time and spin the engine over a couple of times by hand to make sure the marks line up again and you’ll be fine.

Cheers
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Old Aug 15th, 2020, 18:50   #16
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Chris,

Consider a getting set of standard steel wheels from a 940 to fit with new tyres- they’re 15 inch not 14 which means it’s a lot easier and usually cheaper to get hold of tyres- the reduced sidewall height will help sharpen the steering and handling slightly too. 940 wheels are the same bolt pattern and offset, so will fit straight on.

Otherwise- does your son want to learn to weld? If so working on the car could be a perfect opportunity. Although it’ll depend on whether you have the space for it etc.

I recommend you encourage him to set up a thread here in the project cars section and also on the retrorides website- project threads are an easy way to keep interest up as people comment on them and offer encouragement etc.

Other than that, clear the sills out (they’re always full of leaves and other debris), check the car carefully for rust and start a to-do list of little jobs that need doing

Edit- one more thing, soon as you get the car take the wheels off in turn and carefully clean the calipers out and push each of the pistons back a bit to check they aren’t seized- each one should push back smoothly with a bit of force applied. Also clean/replace the caliper mounting pins to make sure the pads can slide easily on them. A stuck piston or pad mounting pin will mean that brake pad doesn’t release, leading to over heated fluid, warped discs and poor fuel consumption... Whilst there check the brake pads for wear, the piston dust seals are in good condition and the flexible hoses are in good condition with no cracks or bulges.


Cheers

Last edited by Bugjam1999; Aug 15th, 2020 at 18:59.
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Old Aug 15th, 2020, 19:21   #17
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Not quite.

Vast majority of engines are non-interference. There is one engine spec with a heron head and domed pistons, that’s interference - identifiable as the cylinder head number ends 631.

If a cylinderhead has been removed and skimmed (to make it flat again) more than once it’s possible that will have made the engine interference when it wasn’t previously.

Cambelt replacement- not difficult, just take your time and spin the engine over a couple of times by hand to make sure the marks line up again and you’ll be fine.

Cheers
The Heron head is found on the B230K engine, which AFAIK only appeared in carburettored form on the 240 and 740 for about two years. The B230K can be externally identified by the lump of emissions plumbing the front of the exhaust side of the engine.

Also a good call about the brakes - look at Machine Mart for their brake piston spreader which will wind back all 4 pistons on the front calipers; because the handbrake works on a set of shoes you don't need a fancy windback tool for them - the spreader tool will fit all of the calipers unless you get an ABS-equipped car.
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Old Aug 15th, 2020, 21:35   #18
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Glad you got sorted in the end, Chris.
Good luck with the car - you and your lad can have some enjoyable bonding to look forward to.
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Old Aug 16th, 2020, 07:55   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bugjam1999 View Post
Not quite.

Vast majority of engines are non-interference. There is one engine spec with a heron head and domed pistons, that’s interference - identifiable as the cylinder head number ends 631.

If a cylinderhead has been removed and skimmed (to make it flat again) more than once it’s possible that will have made the engine interference when it wasn’t previously.

Cambelt replacement- not difficult, just take your time and spin the engine over a couple of times by hand to make sure the marks line up again and you’ll be fine.

Cheers
I knew there would be someone much more knowledgeable than myself about this matter, many thanks.

Alan
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Old Aug 16th, 2020, 08:03   #20
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Chris,

Otherwise- does your son want to learn to weld? If so working on the car could be a perfect opportunity. Although it’ll depend on whether you have the space for it etc.

I recommend you encourage him to set up a thread here in the project cars section and also on the retrorides website- project threads are an easy way to keep interest up as people comment on them and offer encouragement etc.

Cheers
Now this would be a really good idea for Chris's son. If I remember correctly he has just turned 17 and so is probably still at school or college. When it comes to applying for work (particularly apprenticeships) employers really like evidence of projects outside of school. A thread (or even better a blog) here could be printed into a portfolio of evidence for Chris's son. Include some photos and lots of words.

Learning to weld would be a good skill. A lower end MIG welder is ideal for the thin metal on a car - and it is certainly a skill Chris's son will need a few times with an older Volvo (I found a little hole just in front on the driver's rear wheel arch the other day, some previous owner had put some filler over it (maybe 10 years ago...). I'll clean it up, make a repair patch and weld it it when it stops raining).

Good fortune, time for Bob's first walk.

Alan
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