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CVVT solenoid/pulley

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Old Jun 1st, 2013, 23:51   #11
gatos
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Originally Posted by '88740GL View Post
I disconnected the CVVT solenoid for a week and enjoyed a nice quiet engine and no problems. Today It was given an oil & filter change (something that was 6000 miles overdue) the old oil wasn't mega black, but after the oil change, I plugged back in the CVVT and its a lot quieter now than it was, still sounds like a diesel when idling, but goes away when revved.

I got tired of looking at the engine light on the dash! It didn't go out even when I disconnected the battery for 30 mins, but It eventually went out when driving.
Did you rev high or just a couple of hundred RPM extra?
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Old Jun 2nd, 2013, 07:13   #12
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Mine seemed to get noisier after changing the oil and filter !

Before I changed it I just had the brrrrrrr-click over and over again, afterwards there were times when it was constantly rattling and sounded like a 1970's diesel !

Expensive to replace yes but worth doing - I couldnt put up with it like that for long.

Indy I went to recommended 0w30 fully synthetic for future changes - they have an S40 with over 200k on the clock as a courtesy car which is still on its original VVT thanks to regular oil changes with quality oil
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Old Jun 2nd, 2013, 10:24   #13
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Originally Posted by caprirob View Post
Mine seemed to get noisier after changing the oil and filter !

Before I changed it I just had the brrrrrrr-click over and over again, afterwards there were times when it was constantly rattling and sounded like a 1970's diesel !

Expensive to replace yes but worth doing - I couldnt put up with it like that for long.

Indy I went to recommended 0w30 fully synthetic for future changes - they have an S40 with over 200k on the clock as a courtesy car which is still on its original VVT thanks to regular oil changes with quality oil
VVT systems suffer from a number of lubrication related problems and if they get worse after you change the oil I would guess it could be blocked or restricted oil flow to the system. The increase in viscosity that occurs after the oil is changed can make the problem worse if the unit is already suffering from sludge or varnish deposits.
One trick that might work is to run an idle only flush just before you change the oil. That will help clean out the gunk in the narrow oil feeds to the unit. When you select the oil to use it must have a good amount of detergent AND not be a 10 or 15W, the Volvo recommended Castrol Edge 0/30 (It's almost into the 40 range) is perfect, although Mobil 0/40 (Nearly a top 30) would be my choice as it has more in the way of detergents and dispersant.

There are several different problems that can cause VVT related rattles, BUT for a cold start only rattle the important thing is to get the oil feed lines clean and use an 0W oil because it flows faster when cold.
Obviously the previous advice to help figure out if the problem is the actual unit or electrical is valid. This article gives a good description on how a VVT works:
http://youdiyauto.blogspot.de/2012/0...rtup-tick.html

I don't like them much because they are like turbocharges, rather too sensitive to poor lubrication issues. If you buy a car with a VVT and a dubious service history, the first thing to do is get the block clean by using a high detergent major brand oil and short oil change intervals. If things are really suspect, then try the Liqui Moly idle flush before each oil change. Once the block is clean, then pick a good oil, OEM filter and OCI. For a VVT in good condition an 0 or 5W (Down to minus 25C only) quality synthetic with lots of detergent is one real good idea to keep the vanes in the unit clear. Castrol Edge, Mobil 1, Shell Helix Ultra or Liqui Moly Synthoils will all clean well, most oil gurus use Mobil 0/40 or Shell Ultra 0/40 to help clean the block, although a good high mileage oil like Valvoline Maxlife will also do the job well in summer (It's a 10/40).

In general terms cold start rattles can be caused by poor oil flow or too thick an oil, for example using 15/40 in winter. Hot rattles are much more likely to be caused by thin oil, like using a cheap 5/30 in summer for too long an OCI.
The LM additive I suggested trying in a previous post makes no difference to the viscosity, it just contains a dose of Moly and other EP & AW additives to help protect the engine combined with a dollop of detergents and dispersants to try and clean out the gunk, BUT using an idle flush is more effective. If an engine has a high oil consumption or leaks, then using a flush can increase the leak rate due to the false oil seal effect, if that happens just switch to using a high mileage oil with seal conditioners. I would never use a drive around flush like MMO or the Liqui Moly oil scourer with a turbo charged engine due to the potential risk of damaging the turbo bearings if something goes wrong, like the oil filter of pump feed line blocks. The idle only flush additives made by Castrol, Amsoil or Liqui Moly are all similar and seem to produce good results in a safe manner.

Last edited by skyship007; Jun 2nd, 2013 at 10:53.
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Old Jun 2nd, 2013, 19:46   #14
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Did you rev high or just a couple of hundred RPM extra?
just a couple of extra 100 rpm, I literally just applied the tiniest amount of pressure on the throttle to just bring it off idle and the diesel sound disappears.
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Old Jan 17th, 2014, 21:58   #15
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Default Mitsubishi LPG vvt self destructed

My inlet vvt failed this morning engine obviously died at tick over rpm. I pulled the cover back at the side of the road and saw the shredded belt. There is a chunk of metal loose behind the pulley, but more of a worry was the fact that the whole area was awash with oil. It was soaking wet. Can anyone let me know plz if this is terminal, or worth the investment of new kit and possibly a head off to repair bent valves, or should I just walk away. I have to say the car has been excellent and I was loving the fuel price!
Thanks guys.
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Old Jan 17th, 2014, 22:10   #16
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My inlet vvt failed this morning engine obviously died at tick over rpm. I pulled the cover back at the side of the road and saw the shredded belt. There is a chunk of metal loose behind the pulley, but more of a worry was the fact that the whole area was awash with oil. It was soaking wet. Can anyone let me know plz if this is terminal, or worth the investment of new kit and possibly a head off to repair bent valves, or should I just walk away. I have to say the car has been excellent and I was loving the fuel price!
Thanks guys.
Sorry to hear that. Do you mean the cam belt has failed and which engine do you have ?

If the engine has failed in a big way, it might make more sense to look for a good used engine, rather than get involved in a rebuild. There is no way of knowing exactly how bad the damage is without removing the head, although a borescope would give a rough idea.
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Old Jan 17th, 2014, 22:28   #17
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Originally Posted by skyship007 View Post
Sorry to hear that. Do you mean the cam belt has failed and which engine do you have ?

If the engine has failed in a big way, it might make more sense to look for a good used engine, rather than get involved in a rebuild. There is no way of knowing exactly how bad the damage is without removing the head, although a borescope would give a rough idea.
It's the 1.8 gdi Mitsubishi LPG engine. I'm not sure of the engine number.
It would seem that the pulley fell apart and then the cam belt shredded, my concern was all the oil in that area, it was all soaked. I did contact the. Preferred forum spares guys in Wales and got a quote for parts. I will get it in the workshop Tuesday and tear it down and go from there. Just wanted to see if anyone had this before and trying to establish if it's worth doing. I am fortunate that labour cost does not apply!
Cheers for the help so far.
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Old Jan 18th, 2014, 00:06   #18
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That sounds quite bad. By the way, I don't think your engine is a mitsubishi one as that one is a direct injection engine with no VVT on it. You most probably have either the B4184S2 or the B4184S9, both of which are Volvo engines. You can check which engine you have with your VIN here: http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/vin_40.shtml
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Old Jan 18th, 2014, 00:33   #19
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Ok thank you. I will look mine up. Will be useful to know what engine I have, or had lol.
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Old Jan 15th, 2015, 21:15   #20
james02s40
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Default VVT question.

I have ad the VVT plunger fail and throw oil all over my Timing Belt or cam belt as you guys have called it. I am replacing that belt and not driving the car for fear of it slipping. I will be getting it into a shop ASAP. However my question is this, I tested the VVT solenoid by unplugging it and NO NOISE. I plug it back in and NOISY. So do I have a bad solenoid? If so when I get the new belt and pulley replaced can I just leave this thing unplugged for now until a replacement can be accrued?
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