Volvo 960 MK2 - Is this the end?

[volvo always]

Originally Posted by taiwan740

The latter. Base of the strut tower.

I'll strip off the plastic liner on the wheel arch and try to get some pictures from the other side.

In that case should be a lot easier to fix. Some pics would be good.

James.

[Forrest]

Since you can see daylight and the ground through the hole it may be possible to get a picture without removing the wheel arch liner. The shutter delay timer is often useful if you want to stick your camera/phone into an otherwise inaccessible part of the car.

If you do jack up the car and remove the wheel take care that the jacking point isn’t too rusty.

[Ian21401]

Originally Posted by taiwan740

The latter. Base of the strut tower.

I'll strip off the plastic liner on the wheel arch and try to get some pictures from the other side.

Then I suspect that it is probably repairable, depending on the severity and if done properly.
Is it actually the strut tower or simply adjacent to it?
I don’t know but guess someone else will know, is the strut tower classed as structural? If it is the strut tower then it would have to be a good quality repair.
I hope that it turns out to be a simple straightforward job.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Ian21401

Then I suspect that it is probably repairable, depending on the severity and if done properly.
Is it actually the strut tower or simply adjacent to it?
I don’t know but guess someone else will know, is the strut tower classed as structural? If it is the strut tower then it would have to be a good quality repair.
I hope that it turns out to be a simple straightforward job.

Two reasons i believe it's structural Ian, first is it's a chassis member and second, if memory serves correctly, that area is within 12" of suspension mounting points. It's also the bottom of the inner wing, immediately below the strut tower.

It's fairly straight forward as long as he's caught it in time.

[taiwan740]

960 went for it's MOT today, interestingly the aforementioned rust in this thread didn't even come up as an advisory, but it failed for corrosion on the nearside inner sill close to where the rear suspension mounts onto the body.

I need to have a look under the plastic sill cover on that side in order to gauge if its corroded any further. How is this removed?

The car failed on a number of things, ABS light on although I know the sensor has the wire cut, I have a new sensor. Horn doesn't work, middle exhaust silencer needs replacing/repair, and two rear tyres. Rear nivomats too but i have replacements.

Doesn't sound too bad in all honesty provided the rust hasn't metastasised along the whole of the sill.

I haven't made a decision yet and going to think on it for a while before taking any action. A lot of it is kind of "easy repair" as they would say on ebay but I don't have the space/time/tools/skill to do it.

The car overall is in not great shape (for Volvo Forum standards, it's fine for me), it's been worked hard its whole life. I'm wondering whether to fix it as is or sending it to be LS-swapped or something

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by taiwan740

960 went for it's MOT today, interestingly the aforementioned rust in this thread didn't even come up as an advisory, but it failed for corrosion on the nearside inner sill close to where the rear suspension mounts onto the body.

I need to have a look under the plastic sill cover on that side in order to gauge if its corroded any further. How is this removed?

The car failed on a number of things, ABS light on although I know the sensor has the wire cut, I have a new sensor. Horn doesn't work, middle exhaust silencer needs replacing/repair, and two rear tyres. Rear nivomats too but i have replacements.

Doesn't sound too bad in all honesty provided the rust hasn't metastasised along the whole of the sill.

I haven't made a decision yet and going to think on it for a while before taking any action. A lot of it is kind of "easy repair" as they would say on ebay but I don't have the space/time/tools/skill to do it.

The car overall is in not great shape (for Volvo Forum standards, it's fine for me), it's been worked hard its whole life. I'm wondering whether to fix it as is or sending it to be LS-swapped or something

Given most of that is stuff you can do yourself (don't forget to reset the ABS memory - even disconnecting the battery while you replace the sensor will do that) except perhaps the welding, i'd suggest it all comes down to the welding really. How much is that going to be? Could you buy another car with 12 moths MoT for what the welding would cost and be guaranteed to have no other problems? Probably not.

In short, keep it if you know the car and there aren't other big problems just round the corner, have the work done and keep it up to scratch and get a few more good years out of it.

[taiwan740]

Thanks

I have a few friends that are willing to help, as I'm a bit overwhelmed with work and stuff generally at the moment.

Does anyone know the procedure to get the plastic sill covers off without snapping the tabs? I've already clumsily broken the plastic end bit off on the wheel arch. If we can get that information, then I might be able to muddle through.

[taiwan740]

I got the plastic sill cover off - there are plastic popper things at the bottom, the middle pin needs hammering out and then the pin comes loose. then the sill cover slides towards the rear of the car. If the pins are sticking or not coming out, then you can drill out the fasteners at the bottom.

You can see the extent of the corrosion that caused the MOT failure below. This is just in front of the rear left wheel. Guy said it was fixable as long as it didn't go all the way down the sill.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6AZSSJOWnbE

What do you think?

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by taiwan740

I got the plastic sill cover off - there are plastic popper things at the bottom, the middle pin needs hammering out and then the pin comes loose. then the sill cover slides towards the rear of the car. If the pins are sticking or not coming out, then you can drill out the fasteners at the bottom.

You can see the extent of the corrosion that caused the MOT failure below. This is just in front of the rear left wheel. Guy said it was fixable as long as it didn't go all the way down the sill.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6AZSSJOWnbE

What do you think?

Are these the plastic popper things?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10x-Volvo...h/221447834327

That should be fixable as long as your skill set covers it - mine would just about get near it on the welding front so i'd probably farm it out. It looks like a previously fitted patch has failed again though, perhaps the drainage holes got blocked / were forgotten or it wasn't properly treated.

[taiwan740]

Those would be ideal replacements, but the pin didn't have the head on it. Was just a cylinder. Thanks for finding them, I'll be ordering them soon.

Yes, the welding is definitely going to be farmed out. I can replace the rear shock and the tyres and probably fix the horn and the ABS sensor, from there its just the welding and the middle exhaust portion replacement.

No rush on it I suppose. Trying to not get the jitters on my to-do list right now!