Volvo 960 MK2 - Is this the end?

[taiwan740]

Hi

Please could you have a look at this rust hole for me in the below video and tell me if you think its fatal in regards to the MOT and whether it can be repaired?

I'm wondering if it has become so weak as to be causing my camber issues on that side.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d4lryT6K-YM

cheers

[capt jack]

Well every thing is repairable, but it all depends on how much you’re willing to spend. Plus of course, if a car is that rusted in one place then chances are it’ll be rusty elsewhere too.

But that doesn’t look too good.

Jack

[taiwan740]

I'm just trying to plan what needs fixing when, at this stage.

I was under the impression that chassis were normally built using hardened steel. Although you can weld hardened steel, the heat is enough to anneal the metal to a softer form, therefore reducing the integrity of the structure. Therefore welding things like sub-frames generally isn't a suitable fix?

That being said, I know nothing really about materials and metallurgy, hence I come here for people to shoot me out of my ignorance

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by taiwan740

Hi

Please could you have a look at this rust hole for me in the below video and tell me if you think its fatal in regards to the MOT and whether it can be repaired?

I'm wondering if it has become so weak as to be causing my camber issues on that side.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d4lryT6K-YM

cheers

That's fixable fairly easily for a competent welder. I doubt it's upsetting the camber but it could be that it's deeper than it looks on the video, in which case it might.

[volvo always]

Getting at it to cut it out and weld new metal in is the difficult bit. Probably from below.

Cost wise, may not be cost effective or rust as said spread to bulkhead/ further in.

I think it would affect structural integrity in a crash with one section not original/ possibly more firm than original.

James.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by volvo always

Getting at it to cut it out and weld new metal in is the difficult bit. Probably from below.

Cost wise, may not be cost effective or rust as said spread to bulkhead/ further in.

I think it would affect structural integrity in a crash with one section not original/ possibly more firm than original.

James.

Just take the wheel off on that side, you'd be surprised how easy it makes it! Cut out the rust, weld in one new piece for the inner wing then another new piece on the chassis rail (slightly thicker) and Robert is your aunties live-in lover.

[taiwan740]

Originally Posted by volvo always

Getting at it to cut it out and weld new metal in is the difficult bit. Probably from below.

It's really easy to get to, as its above the chassis rail. accessible either from the wheel well or through the bonnet. The brake lines going across it might present a challenge, but not insurmountable.

It was present on the last MOT but they didn't even advisory it at that point, I don't remember it being quite so substantial.

I'll switch this one to my daily driver then I think, MOT is in January so will see what happens then.

[volvo always]

Originally Posted by taiwan740

It's really easy to get to, as its above the chassis rail. accessible either from the wheel well or through the bonnet. The brake lines going across it might present a challenge, but not insurmountable.

It was present on the last MOT but they didn't even advisory it at that point, I don't remember it being quite so substantial.

I'll switch this one to my daily driver then I think, MOT is in January so will see what happens then.

Is it the chassis rail that's gone or the metal from the inner wheel well down to the chassis rail? The video is a bit unclear to me.

James

[Ian21401]

Originally Posted by volvo always

Is it the chassis rail that's gone or the metal from the inner wheel well down to the chassis rail? The video is a bit unclear to me.

James

That’s the question I was about to ask. Remove the wheel and have a better look at it to establish exactly where the hole/holes are. Check the rest of the underside for any other possible terminal corrosion. If that is the only suspect area obtain the opinions of some competent welders. They could declare it terminal because they don’t want the job, or declare it repairable but quote a stupid high cost because they don’t want the job, or even declare it repairable and quote you a sensible fair price, which of course would probably reflect the length of time involved. Unless you obtain a sensible response from the first repairer you approach try another one. Following that research consider whether you are prepared to spend whatever you have been quoted to keep the car on the road.

[taiwan740]

Originally Posted by volvo always

Is it the chassis rail that's gone or the metal from the inner wheel well down to the chassis rail? The video is a bit unclear to me.

James

The latter. Base of the strut tower.

I'll strip off the plastic liner on the wheel arch and try to get some pictures from the other side.