Fan clutch fault?

[JDW3696]

Was all in the green and apparently very good.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by JDW3696

Sorry. Can't remember now. A friend plugged it in as a favour this morning.
Should have asked.

There's nothing to plug into on a B230E and yes, you need to know.

Originally Posted by JDW3696

Was all in the green and apparently very good.

Probably too good for its own good. You really need to know the figures they got from the emissions test.

[JDW3696]

Sorry by plug in I meant they did the gas analysis, thing up the exhaust and looked at the readings which according to them were very good.
I'm hoping I can find this air leak and changing the o rings might sort it out.
They may be one in the same. There was a definite change in idle when I sprayed what I believe is the thermal timer but I suppose it could have been getting drawn in from elsewhere. Hard to see a pin prick in a hose or figure out exactly where it is coming from. I do enjoy tinkering and trying to fix these things. Great car to learn and work on.
Thanks again
Joe

[JDW3696]

The fan does have more resistance when the car is hot. I'm still going to look at an electric fan. Ones I've had on previous cars had a temperature dial you set for the fan to come on at.That was pretty good.
I'll either by an aftermarket one or reading about it I believe some of the 940s had them fitted.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by JDW3696

Sorry by plug in I meant they did the gas analysis, thing up the exhaust and looked at the readings which according to them were very good.
I'm hoping I can find this air leak and changing the o rings might sort it out.
They may be one in the same. There was a definite change in idle when I sprayed what I believe is the thermal timer but I suppose it could have been getting drawn in from elsewhere. Hard to see a pin prick in a hose or figure out exactly where it is coming from. I do enjoy tinkering and trying to fix these things. Great car to learn and work on.
Thanks again
Joe

You still need to know the figures, many people just don't understand the B230E and K-Jetronic injection so they think it's good but in reality, it's running like a bag of poop.

It sounds as if the overspray may have gone somewhere else, the thermal timer isn't in the air part of the inlet manifold and only has electrical connections.

Originally Posted by JDW3696

The fan does have more resistance when the car is hot. I'm still going to look at an electric fan. Ones I've had on previous cars had a temperature dial you set for the fan to come on at.That was pretty good.
I'll either by an aftermarket one or reading about it I believe some of the 940s had them fitted.

The 940s electric fans on the whole were controlled by the ECU which you don't have. There are ways round it with a 2-level fan switch installed in an adaptor spliced into the top hose but for the gains involved, you're just as well off using a single speed aftermarket fan and a single switch in the adaptor. You'll need a 97-92C switch which means it comes on at 97C and goes off at 92C which gives a few degrees margin to allow for a 'stat that is correct and being stuck in traffic without the fan being on and off like a brides nightie.

[JDW3696]

Thankyou for the reply. I will look for the aftermarket fan and get that fitted and do some more investigations on the air leak. Probably went into the injectors or something around there.
I need to find a kjet specialist or someone who understands them which could be tricky.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by JDW3696

Thankyou for the reply. I will look for the aftermarket fan and get that fitted and do some more investigations on the air leak. Probably went into the injectors or something around there.
I need to find a kjet specialist or someone who understands them which could be tricky.

There's a forum here that has people with a wealth of knowledge on the K-Jet and the B230E, if you can get the specific CO and HC figures from the emissions test, that would be a good start.

If you do have an air leak though, you need to find and fix it first, before you can get sensible emissions figures.

Also check tighten the inlet manifold nuts, they can come loose and the inlet manifold gaskets can fail.

[JDW3696]

Thankyou. I will get the emissions read out again and in the meantime try and find this air leak

[Ian21401]

I will not make any comment about the suspected leak etc. as I don't know enough.

Re Coolant Temperature Sensors.
Your car may be different but my B200F engine has two coolant temperature sensors. Both on the left side of the engine under the intake manifold. The forward one, under no.2 injector, is for the dashboard engine temperature gauge. (May be part no.VO1362645). The rearmost one, under no.3 injector, is the one which talks to the ECU. (Maybe part no.VO1346030).

Regarding your query about the Fan Clutch. Volvo call it a "Slip Clutch".
You may find the comments in the below thread useful.

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showt...ht=overcooling

In the cold weather in January last year I was concerned as my engine was not warming up as quickly as it had and the temperature gauge was not going up to it's usual halfway point. I originally suspected the fan. With the engine stopped the fan blades could easily be moved by hand but when I tried to spin them they would only move about 1/4 of a revolution. Many years ago I had been given to understand that they should freely spin about one revolution so I thought that the Slip Clutch may be faulty. ( I had also been informed that with the engine idling when cold it was possible to grab the fan blades to prevent them turning. I was never brave enough to try it and I've never seen it being done. ) I removed the complete hub and fan unit and used the car without the fan which made warm up a little quicker so I still suspected the fan clutch. The spring on the front of the hub was a little corroded so I cleaned it up. It's the expansion of that spring due to temperature which opens the valves in the hub to engage the fan. I obtained a new Slip Clutch from FRF (part no. VO1306259. £235.00 inc.VAT. and four new flange nuts (VO0985919. £4.80 )
Upon receiving the new clutch I compared it's resistance (just by hand) against my old clutch. They both felt exactly the same so I refitted the old clutch to the car and put the new one into my spares stock.
Following advice I then turned to the coolant thermostat and,as you will see from the thread, that was the culprit.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Ian21401

I will not make any comment about the suspected leak etc. as I don't know enough.

Re Coolant Temperature Sensors.
Your car may be different but my B200F engine has two coolant temperature sensors. Both on the left side of the engine under the intake manifold. The forward one, under no.2 injector, is for the dashboard engine temperature gauge. (May be part no.VO1362645). The rearmost one, under no.3 injector, is the one which talks to the ECU. (Maybe part no.VO1346030).

Regarding your query about the Fan Clutch. Volvo call it a "Slip Clutch".
You may find the comments in the below thread useful.

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showt...ht=overcooling

In the cold weather in January last year I was concerned as my engine was not warming up as quickly as it had and the temperature gauge was not going up to it's usual halfway point. I originally suspected the fan. With the engine stopped the fan blades could easily be moved by hand but when I tried to spin them they would only move about 1/4 of a revolution. Many years ago I had been given to understand that they should freely spin about one revolution so I thought that the Slip Clutch may be faulty. ( I had also been informed that with the engine idling when cold it was possible to grab the fan blades to prevent them turning. I was never brave enough to try it and I've never seen it being done. ) I removed the complete hub and fan unit and used the car without the fan which made warm up a little quicker so I still suspected the fan clutch. The spring on the front of the hub was a little corroded so I cleaned it up. It's the expansion of that spring due to temperature which opens the valves in the hub to engage the fan. I obtained a new Slip Clutch from FRF (part no. VO1306259. £235.00 inc.VAT. and four new flange nuts (VO0985919. £4.80 )
Upon receiving the new clutch I compared it's resistance (just by hand) against my old clutch. They both felt exactly the same so I refitted the old clutch to the car and put the new one into my spares stock.
Following advice I then turned to the coolant thermostat and,as you will see from the thread, that was the culprit.

Yours i a totally different system Ian, his is mechanical continuous injection controlled by a flap in the fuel distributor and no coolant temperature sensors.

Good point about checking renewing the thermostat though! Well worth doing as a service item every other coolant change (4 years) and exactly what i do. The interim coolant change is just a simple flush and antifreeze change, the "big" one is a thorough reverse flush using a flushing agent, new 'stat and change of antifreeze.