Play in aux belt tensioner TDI

[pyro]

I did the bottom pulley on my tdi last month, not too complicated a job, but you need good tools and patience.

my experience here
https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=332510

bottom pulley here
https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showp...9&postcount=10

this is the pulley I ordered
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272597560427

you will need the volvo special tools, I believe the numbers are on the thread somewhere.

Good luck!
Ben

[rabbituk]

Originally Posted by brickman

Stop driving it immediately. Go back and review all the relavent previous posts on cam belt changes.

You can get the damper from heritage vw or I think brickwerks also do it. Febi bilstein still make them. Find the febi part number off one of those sites and then you can sometimes get it on amazon foe around £50-70 delivered and it's genuine (no one bothers to fake stuff for these old cars really).

You also need new crank bolt and diamond washer. You will also need 3/4" breaker bar, 1' extension and socket foe the bolt (27mm?) and a jack stand to support it. You basically can't do this job with only 1/2" socketry.

Is worth doing cam belt if its been 80k or 5 years. If its way under that then maybe just do crank damper and the bolt and washer as doing cam belt is not a super easy job.

These cars are worth keeping running as nothing newer that's really any more reliable. Source: replaced my v70 tdi 4x in the past 10 years and all of the replacements have died and then been re replaced with the old v70 again!

I'm now back from working away having traveled the 300 miles home. No further serious issues.

Cambelt/timing belt was done around 13k / 2yrs ago so should still be good. That is something I definitely outsource because of the consequences of getting it wrong. The mechanic we have used over the years drives v70 himself.

Should be able to lay my hands on most of the tools.What is the specialist tool that is need for just replacing the camshaft pulley? The referenced thread appeared to be doing the cambelt as well so I wasn't sure what was specific to only the pulley.

[rabbituk]

Originally Posted by brickman

Stop driving it immediately. Go back and review all the relavent previous posts on cam belt changes.

You can get the damper from heritage vw or I think brickwerks also do it. Febi bilstein still make them. Find the febi part number off one of those sites and then you can sometimes get it on amazon foe around £50-70 delivered and it's genuine (no one bothers to fake stuff for these old cars really).

You also need new crank bolt and diamond washer. You will also need 3/4" breaker bar, 1' extension and socket foe the bolt (27mm?) and a jack stand to support it. You basically can't do this job with only 1/2" socketry.

Is worth doing cam belt if its been 80k or 5 years. If its way under that then maybe just do crank damper and the bolt and washer as doing cam belt is not a super easy job.

These cars are worth keeping running as nothing newer that's really any more reliable. Source: replaced my v70 tdi 4x in the past 10 years and all of the replacements have died and then been re replaced with the old v70 again!

Do I need any Volvo tools if I'm just doing the crankshaft pulley?

My understanding is that I simply need to:-
1. Remove crank bolt using 3/4" drive 27mm with extension and supported on axle stand.
2. Undo the 4 bolts that attach crankshaft pulley to cam gear wheel
3. Do I then need a puller to break the bond between the pulley and gear wheel or do they come apart fairly easily?

Additionally I have an oil leak around that area. I'm not sure if it is coming from the sump or crank shaft seal. There were a few drops of oil on the underside of the crankshaft pulley. I will put the car on ramps today and try and work it out. I only have a window of 2 days next week to change the crank pulley and I need to use the car in 10 days for another trip away so whilst not ideal, I'm minded to leave the small oil leak for later when I have more time. Do I then need special Volvo tools whilst I remove the cam gear to access the seal?

[Martin Cox]

The most useful tool is the crankshaft locking tool Volvo Part Number 9995645. The 27mm headed bolt is torqued to 160 Nm plus 180 degrees if I remember correctly. The crank locking tool turns a difficult and potentially risky job into one that is quite straightforward. Beg, borrow or buy one if you possibly can. Personally, I wouldn't contemplate doing the job without it.

I used a 1 metre 3/4in breaker bar with a 500 mm extension and a six point 27mm socket and a 600 mm scaffold bar on the end of the breaker bar to do mine. This bolt is a stretch bolt and it's strongly recommended that it be renewed when re-assembling.

If you are lucky, once you've also removed the 4 Allen bolts, the vibration damper should then come off leaving the cambelt pulley in situ. Mine didn't and I could only separate the two on the workbench. Should this happen, you will then have to go through the whole process of setting up the cambelt as if it were being changed.

For this you'll need some additional tools; a camshaft locking tool and a spanner for the cambelt tensioner and a suitable drift to knock the cambelt pulley off the camshaft. The spanner is relatively cheap and an internet search should produce something suitable and the camshaft locking tool can be home made from a piece of steel bar the right thickness to fit in the slot on the end of the camshaft.

If you are intending to replace the oil seal, the belt will have to come off anyway.

Hope this is of some help.

Martin

[rabbituk]

Crank shaft pulley now changed. I bottled out of doing it myself as I had other things to get on with and didn't fancy the risk of having to do the timing should the crankshaft pulley not come off easily. Thankfully it did and so there wasn't massive labour charge. There is some cracking to the rubber but it isn't anywhere near as bad as pyro's. The car feels a little smoother at idle (could be smoother still but hey its an old diesel).

https://photos.app.goo.gl/mu4Aa75rq95gFMuz8

Thanks for all the advice on the ins and outs of this job.

[Martin Cox]

Well done on getting it sorted.

It's not a job I'd even contemplate without a proper crank locking tool so no loss of face in not doing it yourself. From the look of the old pulley it was definitely living on borrowed time. I'm glad it's all turned out well for you.

An update on how a story ends is always appreciated and makes a forum thread so much more valuable.

Martin

1998 V70 Tdi Auto

[hal9000f]

Originally Posted by rabbituk

Crank shaft pulley now changed... The car feels a little smoother at idle (could be smoother still but hey its an old diesel).

Two more things from my experience on my 855 TDI which have improved smoothness at idle and also running were new engine mounts and replacing the terminal of the main engine ground.

I could not believe the improvement in smoothness after the main engine ground terminal replacement which was done in the specialist shop with proper tools.

So, if you are handy with jobs like that at least try to thoroughly clean that terminal and it will help with the more stable supply of all of the electronics in your old but great diesel :-)

[rabbituk]

Just an update on this issue in case it helps anybody else experiencing the same, I didn't replace the aux tensioner at the time as I thought it was probably okay and it felt smooth enough although had some lateral play. But the tensioner has just snapped on the mounting lug. On reflection, the violent nature of the belt falling off the idle pulley probably put a lot of stress on the tensioner and caused this fracture.

Not sure why I can't included photos directly but here is the link ... https://photos.app.goo.gl/49pBQL3ihXZ3snGg9

[Martin Cox]

Ouch! I've never seen one do that before. I think your explanation of the cause is entirely plausible.

At least the cambelt is very well protected on these engines so there is little danger of a wayward Aux. belt finding its way into the path of the cambelt. Hopefully repair should be no more involved than sourcing a replacement and fitting it.

Thanks for the update.

Martin