Guide: Fitting LED's to side lights and yellow side lights

[DXMachina]

here's mine (- external link to photo)

I used 501 / T10 bulbs with 10 small SMD LEDs on each (pointing in 5 directions - so they give side-light as well as forward light, and fill the reflector properly), the same bulbs were a perfect fit for all 4 side-marker lights (as per this thread, the car's a Phase 2), both front sidelights and all 4 internal roof lights. Fortunately I'd bought a pack of 10 from eBay

Significantly brighter. I've also replaced both rear numberplate lights with 39mm festoon LEDs, each with 3 large SMD LEDs on, and all tail running / fog lights are also LED, red 24 SMD P5Ws and white 68 SMD P21Ws - so on sidelights I have no incandescent bulbs burning except the few internal backlights and switch-lights that I haven't yet managed to replace with LEDs. Getting there...

[malteser]

Looking nice have you got a link of the ones you used

Cheers
Danny

[DXMachina]

Ones I used are no longer on sale. but if 10 x SMD worked & fitted , so should 12xSMD or 5xSMD (larger LEDs) T10 / 501 bulbs to similar effect.

[gedvan]

Hi there i have just read your post with interest but i have a problem i have replaced the o/s side light with not problem but the near side will not work i have treed everything the holder plastic appears to be very brittle not sure about the actual connection though,i was thinking of getting one of a scrappy and cut and replace the hole connection what do you think,many thanks for your help Ged

[DXMachina]

Assuming the fault is a failing bulb holder, that should work just fine. Cut the wires where you have enough spare length to strip the ends and add insulating crimp connectors, and do the same to the replacement bulb holder. If you use 2 identical crimp connectors you can then reverse the wiring in case you put the LED the wrong way round first time

I trust you did check it was mounted the right way round; they can be fitted either way round in the bulb holder but only light up when the anode connector on the LED unit is connected to the positive voltage feed. Putting them in wrong doesnt harm the LED,it just wont light.

[YorkshireDave]

Great guide peeps.

Just wanted to share something with you all.

LEDs do last longer than filament lamps. However... The quoted time simply means they will still technically 'light'. That is, they will NOT put out the same AMOUNT Of light. The output from LEDs lamps slowly drops from day one. If the manufacturer quotes 20,000 hours then you would look to change at about 7.5 - 10000 hours to maintain light levels (lumens).

Finally, most of the stuff on fleabay is sourced from the same places and subject to poor quality control. This means its always worth buying a bundle when you can to maintain consistency where it matters. The colour temp you really should aim for is 5000 degrees kelvin (5k). This will give you a 'daylight' colour (proper white) with just the merest tinge of blue.

HTH

[philrocks]

After having my LED lights for a while now, thought i would update you with what i found out yesterday.

They had began to short, and where causing sparks/burning around where they where mounted.

The plastic they are mounted in had also crumbled to nothing when i touched it.

Want to fit some more, anyone got any recommendations on what to use? or do you just change regularly? I had mine on for somwhere between 1 and 2 years, with up to 5 hours driving a week,probably averages to less though.

[GaryS40]

Originally Posted by philrocks

After having my LED lights for a while now, thought i would update you with what i found out yesterday.

They had began to short, and where causing sparks/burning around where they where mounted.

The plastic they are mounted in had also crumbled to nothing when i touched it.

Want to fit some more, anyone got any recommendations on what to use? or do you just change regularly? I had mine on for somewhere between 1 and 2 years, with up to 5 hours driving a week,probably averages to less though.

Maybe just got some bad 'uns, mate.

Mine have been fitted for about 3 years, in the side runners and the interiors, with no issues. They were also cheapies from China, so it isn't anything to do with quality of the bulbs.

Just get a bulk quantity from Asia and work out the matching colours, as the K rating can vary between LEDs in the same batch.

Gary

[YorkshireDave]

Part of the reason they deteriorate is poor heat sinking. Often cheap lamps have poor quality heat sinks so they do get hot (nowhere near as hot as halogens) and this (along with the natural vibration) causes the poor quality PCBs to fall apart (often they delaminate).

When you look at good quality lamps the solder pads are huge compared to the cheapies. This means there is less chance of them literally vibrating apart. The heat sinks used are also very much better and do not rely on passing air flow (obviously as they are mostly enclosed) unlike the cheapies.

I've been experimenting with glues to try and reduce vibrational (?) stress but so far have failed miserably... I'm find they are so small there is nowhere for additional glue to go!

[coffeejunky]

I have had these for the past year. No problems at all. Not the brightest during the day, but look as good as the original 3W at night:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QTY-10-T10...item2c842d6064
They are designed for automotive use and mounted so they get good airflow and have 4 solder points so as to prevent vibration fatigue (hu he).

EDIT: You can get brighter ones in white: Search T10 flux on eBay. Lots of options, these might fit and look good.