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850 / S70 & V70 '96-'99 / C70 '97-'05 General Forum for the 850 and P80-platform 70-series models |
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Inlet manifold removal and breather replacement - ME7 modelsViews : 4386 Replies : 13Users Viewing This Thread : |
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May 1st, 2010, 18:52 | #1 |
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Inlet manifold removal and breather replacement - ME7 models
There is a lot of info about on this forum and others about the replacement of the breather on the 850 models e.g. http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showth...light=breather
However, there is very little information about for the later cars with ETM and ME7 EMS, these have a slightly different breather system as well as a different inlet manifold. With reference to the attached picture, I ordered the following from Simon ( Rufe ) at FRF for my 2000 C70 T5: Oil Trap (1) - 1271988 Hose (2) - 1271653 Hose (6) - 1271654 Hose (4) - 8653339 Hose clamp (7&9) - 976561 3off Hose clamp (3) - 978180 2off Washer (10) - 947282 2off Inlet gasket - 9458534 Total cost inc postage, 57.94 The large water cooled breather pipe (8) is very expensive ( over £100 ) so I chose not to replace this. I'm afraid I didn't take any pictures but here is a brief description of the process ( all references to left/right are as you stand at the front of the car looking at the engine ): Remove coil covers and injector cover. Unplug the injectors ( be careful as there is a rubber seal in the plug and a couple of mine fell out ). Remove the fuel rail. You need to disconnect the pipe from the fuel rail, ideally split it at the push fit connector - you need a special tool for this. I didn't have one of these so I turned the fuel rail over and remove 3 small Torx screws and remove the clamp plate from the rail, the pipe can then be removed at the rail end. Disconnect vacuum hoses from the manifold, one small one in the middle, one small at the RH end and one large at the RH end. Remove the clip and disconnect the breather hose in the centre of the cam cover. Unplug the two sensors on the duct into the throttle. Undo the hose clips and remove this duct. Unfortunately the hose clip on the throttle was totally inaccessible on my car so I had to remove the inlet manifold complete with the duct - a little more difficult but still possible. Undo the bolt holding the dipstick to the inlet manifold. Remove the top row of 3 bolts where the inlet manifold fixes to the head. Then loosen the lower 3 bolts, it is not necessary to remove these. The lower LH bolt is a total swine to get at. My trick was to use a 10mm socket on a 1/4" drive universal joint and then an 8" extension bar - there is just room to feed it between the LH edge of the plenum and the PAS pump. In fact, the same tool can be used for all 6 manifold bolts. The inlet manifold should be relatively free now. If you lift it slightly you will have access to the water heated breather nipple on the underside of the manifold on the LH side. Use a 17mm spanner to undo the banjo bolt. The nipple has 3 hoses, the 2 larger ones contain coolant so if you plan on undoing these then you will have to drain some water out of the engine. You should now be able to remove the inlet manifold, it takes a bit of twisting and juggling to feed the fuel hose between the two inlet runners. Once it is all apart then replacing the hoses and oil trap is quite straightforward. You will need a set of pincers ( e.g. http://www.cromwell.co.uk/KEN9352010K ), to crimp the new hose clips. My oil trap was full of 'mayonnaise' and the oil return pipe to the engine was completely blocked which may explain my oil consumption of 4-500 miles / litre. You need to clean out the breather nipple, I used a small piece of bent wire and plenty of 'brake cleaner' to remove all the crud. I was going to completely remove the 'expensive' hose (8) but the water union on the RH end of the head looked pretty inaccessible so I just disconnected the breather section at each end and blew it through with an air line - the hose was completely clear with no noticeable deposits. In true 'Haynes' style the reassembly is the reverse of the disassembly! Unfortunately reattaching the breather nipple to the inlet manifold is a mare - with the manifold roughly fitted I couldn't really get a good hold of the banjo bolt and have sufficient dexterity to line it up and start the thread - it is also very easy to keep dropping the copper washers! The solution I used in the end was to drain some coolant and disconnect the short rubber coolant hose on the LH side and also pull off the small breather hose from the centre stub. This then gives you a bit more 'slack' in the hose, I dropped the manifold into the car with the LH end downwards and the other end point up at about 45 degrees - you can then reach around with your right hand and fit the breather nipple. The manifold can then be dropped back into place and the breather and water hoses reconnected ( you will need a small jubilee clip to replace the one on the water hose ) before finally tightening the banjo bolt once everything is aligned. |
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May 1st, 2010, 19:29 | #2 |
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May 1st, 2010, 20:04 | #3 |
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May 1st, 2010, 20:19 | #4 | |
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Quote:
My respect to you for taking the task on... Jod
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The Following User Says Thank You to Jod T5 For This Useful Post: |
May 1st, 2010, 20:23 | #5 |
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Write up
Don't put the man down for not taking picture's! Im sure this thread will help someone at some point.
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May 3rd, 2010, 05:22 | #6 |
Volgrrr
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May 3rd, 2010, 16:56 | #7 |
Mad Murdoch
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@ Ian W I congratulate you on your write up, I recently replaced the PCV on my V70 2.5T ME7 engine & I have to agree with you that there is littel or no info on this job on this engine & the Haynes manual makes it sound a lot easier than it is. Had I realised how different it was to the other V70/850's I would have had the camera with me at the time to try & document it all aint hind sight a wonderfull thing.
Like your self I cleaned out the £100 hose & with regards the banjo union I disconnected the hoses from it then cleaned it out after I removed the manifold from the car either way not an easy task as I'm sure you'll agree, you mentioned the tool for crimping the hose clips I replaced all these clips with stainless jubilee clips to save buying the tool. Good write up though wish you had done yours before I did mine then I could have used your guide
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"If It Ain't Broke Don't Try To Fix It" Jim Day 1999 V70 2.5 T SE Auto "ME7" Caravan = 2003 Swift Charisma 550 4 Berth |
May 25th, 2010, 20:01 | #8 |
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Hey just found this thread as about to begin this job. I agree there is no info on this one.
Just got to the bit where you undo the quick release fuel line and was stuck. I will take some photos as I follow the instructions above unless someone else has done this already ? |
Jun 26th, 2010, 08:35 | #9 |
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hose clamp
Dear Forum users
I would like to share my experience when I've changed breather pipes not so long ago, I ordered my parts from Volvo dealers direct, and they arrived as a complete set. However, Volvo’s are using some hose clips which to me are completely useless (as I don’t have a special tools) and because of that, I went to Halfords and bought my own clips. When putting the clips on, I then discovered that the quality of the clips are much more inferior and they bend easily. So I had to postpone my work, and ordered new clips from the web. The clips I have purchased are made by ABA and you only need a normal screwdriver. I’m mentioning this because it's very frustrating having a top quality part in front of you and unable to use it. I hope this will help someone in the future. **the clip Volovo like to use is a part no: 976561 (marked no 12 on the chart) also pic. attached - you need a special tool to use this type of clip. Volvo Clip I order mine from these guys: http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/Perfor...Hose_Clips/521 Last edited by TomKlan; Jun 26th, 2010 at 08:40. |
Jun 26th, 2010, 09:06 | #10 |
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Location: South Kent Coast
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End snips or top cutters do the job.
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/pr...-snips-cutters http://www.stationroadbaseboards.co....iers-snips.htm Should be available from tool shops. |
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