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RustV40 Project

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Old Aug 11th, 2017, 02:01   #11
druid
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Could you send me a picture from google showing where it should be?
Also what should I do since the holding strap is broken. Should I just leave it hanging?
Not great with images but there should be a strap, I think zip tie would be OK as long as it will hold the earth in place. That's what it is, so you don't get a static build up.
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Old Aug 11th, 2017, 08:50   #12
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Update 2017-07-02:
-The new dent I got on the driver door got fixed today. Took a hammer and hit it from the inside a few times and it pop back out. Good as new except some white paint from the other car which can easily be fixed. http://imgur.com/a/5NrY9
-New tailgate bulbs since two bulbs had stopped working.
-Driver window noise fixed.
-Blew out some dust out of the air filter and cleaned the box where it's placed. (I might purchase a new air filter later)
It's worth getting an MOT inspection done to see what really does need doing. Otherwise you can spend time with rust or dents that might not matter whilst overlooking something much more important like defective rear calipers.

Good you cleaned out the air filter housing as a lot of folks forget to do that. It's very important to clean it if the engine has a turbo in particular.

The R5W blulbs in the rear lights are a PITA, as they fail on a regular basis. I did try some cheap LED's, but they did not last much longer.

Some of the engines don't like non Volvo plugs, as there is no real equivalent.
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Old Aug 11th, 2017, 11:07   #13
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It's worth getting an MOT inspection done to see what really does need doing. Otherwise you can spend time with rust or dents that might not matter whilst overlooking something much more important like defective rear calipers.

Good you cleaned out the air filter housing as a lot of folks forget to do that. It's very important to clean it if the engine has a turbo in particular.

The R5W blulbs in the rear lights are a PITA, as they fail on a regular basis. I did try some cheap LED's, but they did not last much longer.

Some of the engines don't like non Volvo plugs, as there is no real equivalent.
New plugs are doing great.

One thing that failed MOT last time was "Missing sideposition light", either you remove both or have both side working. I did a ghetto fix: http://i.imgur.com/iClsBKf.jpg
However, I've got a new light and replaced it, it's looking good.

Also another thing that failed MOT was high emissions, but it went through because the guy was nice enough. The catalytic converter is bad and I have to try to find another one for it.
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Old Aug 13th, 2017, 09:29   #14
skyship007
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New plugs are doing great.

One thing that failed MOT last time was "Missing sideposition light", either you remove both or have both side working. I did a ghetto fix: http://i.imgur.com/iClsBKf.jpg
However, I've got a new light and replaced it, it's looking good.

Also another thing that failed MOT was high emissions, but it went through because the guy was nice enough. The catalytic converter is bad and I have to try to find another one for it.
Oddly enough we have not had any owner report a failed CAT yet. Some CAT's can cause MOT issues when they rust through and are expensive to replace if you buy a new one, although you can try using a good looking low mileage used unit. The pre CAT section might also need replacing if it's badly corroded.

If a CAT does get blocked up with Zinc ash it can't be cleaned out (Unless you like playing around with very corrosive acids). That ash results from engine oil anti wear additives, so if you can keep the oil consumption down and avoid using oils with high levels of Zinc based anti wear additives they last longer. Alas the only alternative to Zinc based anti wear additives is one of the new generation Ceramic oil additives and they are too expensive to be included in any normal engine oil at present.

If you do buy a used CAT, make sure it does not rattle when given a good shake, as that means the internal matrix has broken up and it might not work as intended.
My previous car was a Renault 19RT and the CAT had to be replaced (700 Euros plus fitting) after it failed a TUV inspection. The chap thumped it with his fist and it sure rattled. He then pointed to a few small holes in the seams and it was game over, as he gave me a full failure notice which gets entered into their data base, so no point trying to get another place to pass it after bodging up the rust holes.


A TUV inspector made me change both reversing bulbs for standard 10w jobs as they were too bright. 20 quid wasted as some muppet binned one of them (They were top of the range Corus LED's).
Alas my partner demonstrated why she really does need good reversing light by backing into another car a few months ago!
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Everyone should DYOR (Do Your Own Research)
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