ARB bush nut access

Dean1985 · Apr 18th, 2011, 21:11

Well tried all the extensions i could lay my hands on, even went all the way from the top of the engine with extensions and an elbow got the socket on but could not nudge the bolt.

SO...

I now have x2 service holes installed under brake pedal and in the passenger footwell, literally lifted the carpet, spent a while calculating the exact position of the nuts over a cupper and ....

A lot of BANGS later a hole through the floor directly above the arb bush bolt, just the right size to pop an extension bar through the hole and pop a socket on the other end.

Just an for anyone else needing to change the arb bushes. seems brutal but once all the carpet is back down you would never know. Just need to remember to treat the hole from rusting.

Dog_Book · Apr 18th, 2011, 21:21

lol you animal

twinturbo · Apr 28th, 2011, 18:19

I need to do mine, hope I don't have to go that far..

I once had to re-attatch a gear link on a sierra that would have required the box and engine dropping out. Instead I removed the dash and chisled an access hatch in the trans tunnel to get to the link pin.

TT

gatos · May 4th, 2011, 13:50

I would have never thought of that... lol. Dean, any photos of the project by any chance?

960kg · May 4th, 2011, 14:16

......it just shows you that you have to have that "get on with it attitude" to win.......that is a great practical approach to the problem.....makes you wonder why Volvo didn`t have that idea!!!!!........well done you.....

Baffler · May 4th, 2011, 14:38

Have you considered cutting a slot in the threaded end of the bolt? Crack the bolt with a ring spanner and then, from under the car, use a flat head screwdriver to unscrew the bolt.

gatos · May 4th, 2011, 14:59

I saw your post of yours baffler but I am not sure what exactly you meant.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Baffler

Apparently you can remove the ARB bracket and bolt with both a ring and open ended spanner. The trouble begins when you try to put the new bush and bolt back on. The upper part of bush (main bracket side) needs to be pulled down to lock it into position with the lower part. The bolt is that close to the body that you can't get a spanner or socket on it. If you look at the threaded end of the new bolt you'll see a little indentation. Place the bolt in a vice and cut a grove into this indentation so as to allow a flat head screwdriver to grip. Once that is done place the new retaining plate and lower part of the bush in under the ARB, slip the upper part of the bush into its position and get under the car. From the underside of the car you can now feed the bolt through the hole of the bush bracket and with a screwdriver through the sub-frame you can start to thread the bolt and pull the bracket into position.

The reason I am asking is because last night I started hearing a clonk noise from the drivers footwell when I was breaking from 15-20 mph to a stop. I have not yet established the cause of the problem, but from what I have read it points to the ARB Bushes.

Dean1985 · May 4th, 2011, 22:11

Quote:

Originally Posted by Baffler

Have you considered cutting a slot in the threaded end of the bolt? Crack the bolt with a ring spanner and then, from under the car, use a flat head screwdriver to unscrew the bolt.

Not sure if the arb's had been changed before but even with a soaking of pen oil for a couple of days before they were not budging. Seemed the simplist way.

Dean1985 · May 4th, 2011, 22:14

Quote:

Originally Posted by gatos

I would have never thought of that... lol. Dean, any photos of the project by any chance?

No piccies I'm affraid, I can say that it took some beating to get through the floor though.

twinturbo · May 4th, 2011, 22:29

believe me.

I have rebuilt entire cars, building a kit car, modded cars, dodged codged and bodged.. Converted from 2wd to 4wd, installed ABS.

Nothing, is as difficult as doing these two bushes with the sub frame in place. I could remove the entire ford sierra front suspension blindfold in about half an hour. It took my 8 hrs to not successfully complete one side on this stupid design. I wasted some glorious time I could have been working on one of the more involving projects, I have ( counting......) 24+ abrasions on my hands.

If I HAD to do it again. The subframe rear would be dropped. But instead it's going to the garage to be done, and I am doing some work for them to partly cover the cost Although My mechanic recons he can do it fairly quickly...

TT

Apr 18th, 2011, 21:11	#1
Dean1985 Master Member Last Online: Jun 4th, 2021 20:51 Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Norwich	ARB bush nut access Well tried all the extensions i could lay my hands on, even went all the way from the top of the engine with extensions and an elbow got the socket on but could not nudge the bolt. SO... I now have x2 service holes installed under brake pedal and in the passenger footwell, literally lifted the carpet, spent a while calculating the exact position of the nuts over a cupper and .... A lot of BANGS later a hole through the floor directly above the arb bush bolt, just the right size to pop an extension bar through the hole and pop a socket on the other end. Just an for anyone else needing to change the arb bushes. seems brutal but once all the carpet is back down you would never know. Just need to remember to treat the hole from rusting.

Apr 18th, 2011, 21:21	#2
Dog_Book Idiot Last Online: Apr 21st, 2019 17:29 Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Derby	lol you animal __________________ Vectra VXR estate convert Experience = V40 1998 2.0 CD lots of mods Busy pestering the poor sods here now

May 4th, 2011, 14:16	#5
960kg Premier Member Last Online: Dec 28th, 2022 12:25 Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Mercville	......it just shows you that you have to have that "get on with it attitude" to win.......that is a great practical approach to the problem.....makes you wonder why Volvo didn`t have that idea!!!!!........well done you..... __________________ Mercedes C320CDI Sport Estate 3 litre V6 7 Gear Auto Remap 290bhp 628Nm torque @ 1600revs 45.1mpg

May 4th, 2011, 14:38	#6
Baffler Premier Member Last Online: May 26th, 2024 14:13 Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Co. Limerick, Ireland	Have you considered cutting a slot in the threaded end of the bolt? Crack the bolt with a ring spanner and then, from under the car, use a flat head screwdriver to unscrew the bolt. __________________ Liam... '96 854 TDI SE, '99 V70 2.5D S, '05 C70 2.0T Collection, '05 S80 2.0T SE, '15 V70 D4 SE Lux Nav.

Apr 28th, 2011, 18:19	#3
twinturbo Senior Member Last Online: Oct 7th, 2017 18:51 Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Carlisle	I need to do mine, hope I don't have to go that far.. I once had to re-attatch a gear link on a sierra that would have required the box and engine dropping out. Instead I removed the dash and chisled an access hatch in the trans tunnel to get to the link pin. TT

May 4th, 2011, 13:50	#4
gatos Premier Member Last Online: Nov 15th, 2022 21:34 Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: London / Essex	I would have never thought of that... lol. Dean, any photos of the project by any chance?

May 4th, 2011, 22:29	#10
twinturbo Senior Member Last Online: Oct 7th, 2017 18:51 Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Carlisle	believe me. I have rebuilt entire cars, building a kit car, modded cars, dodged codged and bodged.. Converted from 2wd to 4wd, installed ABS. Nothing, is as difficult as doing these two bushes with the sub frame in place. I could remove the entire ford sierra front suspension blindfold in about half an hour. It took my 8 hrs to not successfully complete one side on this stupid design. I wasted some glorious time I could have been working on one of the more involving projects, I have ( counting......) 24+ abrasions on my hands. If I HAD to do it again. The subframe rear would be dropped. But instead it's going to the garage to be done, and I am doing some work for them to partly cover the cost Although My mechanic recons he can do it fairly quickly... TT

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