S60 D5 2005 paper fuel filter change - leaking

[XC70Bob]

I've tried 2 after market fuel filters from auto factors on my XC70 D5 and both of them leaked were the 2 plastic parts screw together, so I only ever use Volvo ones now and have never had a problem since.

when I compared the large O rings from the after market ones I found them to be slightly smaller in the size of the cross section only by point something of a mm and not as flexible as the Volvo ones.

I know the Volvo ones are more expensive but I think its worth it if they seal every time and its not as if you change them every year.

[McGandalf]

My understanding is that the Mann PU823x is exactly the same as the Volvo 'genuine' fuel filter for the D5 (paper cartridge type) - and the only difference is the box it comes in?

I assume Mann makes the Volvo 'genuine' fuel filter and removes any 'Mann' branding?

[McGandalf]

Should I have bled the fuel system of air between removing the old filter and fitting the new filter?

[Leyburn]

It should prime itself. You can fill the canister with clean diesel to reduce cranking, although the lift pump should fill the canister (assuming there is a lift pump for the D5)

[Dancake]

The original filter is made by Purflux (as mentioned in post #14). If the Mann filter isn't up to scratch, I'm sure they would appreciate the feedback.

[BillDD5]

I replaced the fuel filter in my 2005 XC70 D5 at the weekend and fitted a Mahle KX 226 D (equivalent to the Mann PU 823x) and it went on OK, although I used a bit of engine oil around the new ‘O’ ring seal and threads to help get it back on.

The in-tank Pump runs for a while when the ignition is turned on and the engine started straight away after it’d let the pump run till I heard it stop, only to stop again after a few seconds. I turned the ignition off and back on and let the pump run again and after a bit of cranking it started again, no problems.

[McGandalf]

Hi,
Thanks to a proper ramp and a helpful mechanic, I managed to get the fuel filter on the car and do the cap up on the threads, flush against the o-ring. Car starts up and runs with no more diesel leaks from the filter housing.

However, the engine is taking considerably more cranking before it fires up than before. Do I assume there is air in the fuel system? If so, could this be resolved by some more turning the ignition key to Pos II, leaving it for 15-30 seconds, turning the ignition off and then back to II for a short while again - to bleed the system of air? Or might it require something more dramatic?

[McGandalf]

Hi chaps - any thoughts on the poor starting issue? I just want to set my paranoid mind at rest that I haven't done major damage to the injectors/high pressure pump by getting air in the fuel system via botching my fuel filter fitting - and that this air can be bled via the ignition key priming method. Thanks in advance.

[Leyburn]

My 185 D5 has coughed slowly into life for the last 80k miles or so. Same battery, same injectors, same pump.

Use high cetane fuel and a good additive to see if it improves. Long motorway runs and occasional visits to the red line (and beyond!) have preserved my daily diesels for many years.

[cheshired5]

Originally Posted by McGandalf

Hi chaps - any thoughts on the poor starting issue? I just want to set my paranoid mind at rest that I haven't done major damage to the injectors/high pressure pump by getting air in the fuel system via botching my fuel filter fitting - and that this air can be bled via the ignition key priming method. Thanks in advance.

There's a starting problem diagnosis video on my YouTube channel.
The information is readily available so I wouldn't try guesswork.