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B23A to B230FT conversion

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Old Oct 4th, 2018, 12:25   #21
classicswede
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On the note of intercooler is your donor car AC or non AC. If without AC the intercooler and hosing will all fit into the 240
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Old Oct 4th, 2018, 12:54   #22
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Your car looks cool! I like it.

Couple of things to add:

I'd highly recommend either a custom loom as suggested above or a complete loom from a late Volvo 240, when I converted mine I spent a long and frustrating time messing about with the wiring creating a loom from the engine bay section of a late 240 loom and the ecu plug from a 940... not recommended. Unless you really like wiring, take one of the two options above. Chasing electrical faults is frustrating and time consuming.

Your car is early enough that i think the bonnet slam panel will unbolt, remove this before removing the engine it makes things a lot easier. If the slam panel is spotwelded in place, drill those spotwelds out and replace them with bolts to make the slam panel removable.

My 2.5inch downpipe is in place with the steering column in it's normal orientation and the oil to water exchanger from the 940 in place - there isn't loads of space, but it's doable.

Have the cylinderhead skimmed whilst you have the head off the turbo engine to replace the head gasket. Cheap and easy to do when it's in pieces already.

I drove my car with the T cam for a while, then swapped to an A cam - it's a noticeable difference but it isn't night and day. If you're short of time - remember you'll have to reshim the new cam - then leave that for now.

Swapping the aux cam into the engine isn't hard, this youtube video is a bit faffy but covers it. Look at about 18mins for the gear for the oil pump being removed from the second engine, they missed that bit with the first engine.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D738ZeOBIcI

Replace the oil separator as part of the engine refresh.

Note - your local volvo dealer can get all the seals, gaskets, parts you need. I'm on first name terms with the guy at the parts counter at mine remember the reg number for the 940 to make ordering turbo engine parts easier.

I'll probably think of something else soon enough... good luck!

Cheers
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Old Oct 4th, 2018, 13:02   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by classicswede View Post
Changed supplier for the downpipes as many customers who read everything on the internet were offended by the crush bending. I have just had the first sample of the mandrel bent pipes and once I have done a trail fit they will go into production
Considering I was one of your customers who was definitely offended by the bends on the downpipe I bought, I'm intrigued (and trying not to be offended by) what you mean about "reading everything on the internet"?
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Old Oct 4th, 2018, 14:37   #24
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Reading and believing everything you read on the internet.

Don't get me wrong in theory a mandrel bent system is better and flow rates are higher. In real world situations are mandrel bends the be all and end all then teh answer is no.

Where you have mandrel bends butt jointed to pipes this tends to create a situation worse than a crush bend. Where the joint has a slight step this sends reverse direction shock waves into the exhaust gas stream. Very few mandrel bent systems use correct lap joints that remove that problem.

There is a interesting video on youtube showing dyno tests of a exhaust manifold all nicely bent and then the results after hammering dents into it and then more dents. The dents on this engine gave better results than without! Would that happen on every engine? Certain to say no but what it does go to show is if you want to extract every last possible bit of power you need dyno time and sometimes try teh unlikely.


BTW that downpipe has been fitted on another car (customer collected teh pipe in person and shown the exessive crush) and has made some good results on the dyno. Would it be better with a better made downpipe? Who knows without back to back dyno testing.

I am much happier with the new downpipes but with a RHD car and the factory manifold the flow is never going to be ideal
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Old Oct 4th, 2018, 15:02   #25
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I studied fluid dynamics as part of my automotive engineering degree, so I was also going on what I was taught by accredited professionals. Please don't jump to conclusions about your customers...

I've seen that video, I've seen others where performance increases massively just by increasing downpipe diameter - as you say there are many factors.

The downpipe you advertised on your site showed crush bends, which I had no issue with, as the area doesn't change much. But it was nothing like the one I was sent... The one in question was a series of severely crushed bends with a sharp welded joint immediately after the turbo - the flow must be shocking. Even my wife who knows diddly squat about cars said it looked terrible. That was my 1st issue, the second was the disparity to your advert and the 3rd was your (continuing) lack of admittance of the poor quality - you never replied to the facebook post

I don't really want to open the can of worms again and haven't brought it up publicly for a long time, but suggesting I blindly believe the internet has wound me up.
I'm pleased you've changed supplier tbh, the UK needs a supplier of high quality Volvo tuning parts and I genuinely hope ClassicSwede can be that, but in my experience your quality control & customer service needs some polishing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by classicswede View Post
Reading and believing everything you read on the internet.

Don't get me wrong in theory a mandrel bent system is better and flow rates are higher. In real world situations are mandrel bends the be all and end all then teh answer is no.

Where you have mandrel bends butt jointed to pipes this tends to create a situation worse than a crush bend. Where the joint has a slight step this sends reverse direction shock waves into the exhaust gas stream. Very few mandrel bent systems use correct lap joints that remove that problem.

There is a interesting video on youtube showing dyno tests of a exhaust manifold all nicely bent and then the results after hammering dents into it and then more dents. The dents on this engine gave better results than without! Would that happen on every engine? Certain to say no but what it does go to show is if you want to extract every last possible bit of power you need dyno time and sometimes try teh unlikely.


BTW that downpipe has been fitted on another car (customer collected teh pipe in person and shown the exessive crush) and has made some good results on the dyno. Would it be better with a better made downpipe? Who knows without back to back dyno testing.

I am much happier with the new downpipes but with a RHD car and the factory manifold the flow is never going to be ideal
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Old Oct 4th, 2018, 21:24   #26
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There were a few things on the exhaust side that I had not been happy on and the pipe you had should never have left the workshop to be fair. Between the odd thing like that and long delays in getting jobs done. They do still make some things for me but where possible things are being moved to another company with better machines and able to deliver consistant quality.
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Old Oct 5th, 2018, 08:39   #27
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Good discussion chaps but let's keep it on topic, I need to keep taking notes for my imaginary FT build 😂
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Old Oct 5th, 2018, 10:25   #28
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my little tony:

thanks for your useful advice...the 240 is having problems with it's VERY tired wiring loom and so rather than waste time fixing it I may just pull the engine and bring the conversion forward. Cue cheeky grin.

classicswede:

do you need a guinea pig for the downpipe? I just happen to know someone who needs one and is doing a RHD turbo swap...me!
And the 940 was an AC car, so I'l buy a big shiny FMIC and make some appropriate hoses to connect to OEM ally pipes.

On a side note, I agree with ALEX that the post should be kept on topic...
HOWEVER
I studied vehicle design and engineering too and find it all fascinating. I could spend hours researching something which in the real world probably has no noticeable benefit!

I have spent hours working out what to do with the exhaust...even the idea of going 90 degrees vertical from the turbo and out the bonnet. Apart from being a potential 'pedestrian-gouger' it might be a little loud! Cool though!

Bugjam1999:

Thanks for the advice. I'm looking for a later 240 loom as the 940 one is looking like a couple of days worth of messing about and it probably won't work when I'm done!
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Old Oct 5th, 2018, 10:26   #29
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One more!
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Old Oct 5th, 2018, 10:41   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 240ratrod View Post
Apart from being a potential 'pedestrian-gouger' it might be a little loud! Cool though!
Bugjam, I think you might need a bit of a brace on your turbo mounting if you're going down that exact route!
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