S40: URGENT! S40 T4 B4194T TURBO maintenance

[Matt86]

Most certainly need to either replace the PCV or get it cleaned out. Might find it'll cure the oil consumption.

[skyship007]

Originally Posted by ElGreco

Just finished the PCV Test!

It was the first time I shaked hands with my car (attached picture)

As you can see from the attached picture, @Idle the glove is not sucked inside the engine instead it is mostly BLOWN UP. I say mostly, because I thought that it should be either sucked in or blown up continuously but actually it was blown up and intermittently sucked in (or not blown up).
Probably this is due to the engine piston rotation and of course a partially or fully clogged PCV.

Note: I did not notice any smoke coming out of the Engine Oil quantity indicator when I pulled it with the Engine Oil cap placed in position.

A and something else... I accerlarated 3 times to 5-6000 rpm and only one time there were only 3 drops of black liquid coming out of the exhaust - condensation with deposits or oil... i dont really know - still no smoke.

All these, with the car stopped (not under load).

Don't be too concerned about the back box dripping, because if your car has been short tripping and idling a lot, there is bound to be some black crud back there.
If it's not smoking when booted or at hot idle that's good news, although the vent should still be cleaned.

Just out of interest what are you using for engine oil ??
A very cheap 5/30 that has a low volatilty index can evapourate off at a fairly high rate when warm and will not contain any seal conditioners. It's warm in Athens all year, so a 15/40 would be fine, so one cheap oil that would work well is Castrol GTX 15/40 HM (The labels differ between each country, but it should contain seal conditioners).
Because the engine had an issue with high oil consumption and might be a potential oil dripper, I would steer clear of using an expensive full synthetic or flush additives (They won't do any real harm, but if you don't have easy access to stop leak or HM oils they could complicate the situation). I would keep the oil change interval real short for a while and see what happens if you go for a good Sunday morning session.

I have to use GTX 15/40 HM in the US sometimes and the drip rate and oil consumption that results is often half that of using Edge 5/40, just because of the seal conditioners. Mobil and Valvoline also do good HM oils, but it's just a matter of what is available in Athens. Mobil don't even sell their full range in the UK at present!

Be careful with the fuel and air filters, because some non Volvo filters will just fall apart from old age (Or the seals fail to function), so it is worth checking they are OK.

Blocked vents and turbo lines tend to be associated with sludge in the sump and because it's fairly easy to remove the pan from most V40 engines (You might not need as gasket but a special sealant), it might well be worth cleaning out.

I might hark on about how good modern GTL or Synthoils are and the effectiveness of idle flush, direct feed injection cleaners and Ceratec quite often, BUT when you have an engine that has had serious oil consumption issues, it is time to be careful about starting new oil leaks by dissolving false oil seals. That means sump off and very short oil changes to shift sludge.
The direct feed fuel purges are still worth using to clean the injectors of gum, but Ceratec which is real good for old blocks and will help cut oil consumption in some cases, works best if the block is cleaned up first, because some of the additives in the old oil will interfere with it depositing a good layer of Moly and even prevent it filling in pitting or scratches in bearings.

The Greek Islands are great in summer, but if anyone is thinking of driving into central Athens, take the tube! It's a good city, but the planners did not consider cars and it was the parking hell capital of the world when I was there (I had several permits, but none of them worked because those places were always full). Also they use the 3 lane system outside of Athens, so overtaking in the middle lane can prove very interesting at times. Most Greek trucks don't consider head on crashes with a car to be an issue if they get stuck behind a tractor!

[ElGreco]

Originally Posted by Matt86

Most certainly need to either replace the PCV or get it cleaned out. Might find it'll cure the oil consumption.

This can be good news, but still if you check the attached list of the turbo service I did back in mid-2012 (just 2 years ago), you will see that i changed many hoses and put new oil trap with no significant improvement in oil consumption.

Still, I am not sure exactly if the part numbers mentioned in the that list include all the PCV system parts i should have cleaned or changed. Any help would be really appreciated (see attached file please-i translated as much as i could to english).

Originally Posted by skyship007

Don't be too concerned about the back box dripping, because if your car has been short tripping and idling a lot, there is bound to be some black crud back there.
If it's not smoking when booted or at hot idle that's good news, although the vent should still be cleaned.

A) Just out of interest what are you using for engine oil ??

...

B) Be careful with the fuel and air filters, because some non Volvo filters will just fall apart from old age (Or the seals fail to function), so it is worth checking they are OK.

Blocked vents and turbo lines tend to be associated with sludge in the sump and because it's fairly easy to remove the pan from most V40 engines (You might not need as gasket but a special sealant), it might well be worth cleaning out.

....

C) The Greek Islands are great in summer, but if anyone is thinking of driving into central Athens, take the tube! It's a good city, but the planners did not consider cars and it was the parking hell capital of the world when I was there (I had several permits, but none of them worked because those places were always full). Also they use the 3 lane system outside of Athens, so overtaking in the middle lane can prove very interesting at times. Most Greek trucks don't consider head on crashes with a car to be an issue if they get stuck behind a tractor!

A) I always used "original" VOLVO Engine OIL which initially was CASTROL 10W40 and then the last few years 5/40 MAGNATEC.


B) All the parts i have used for the car and all the services i have conducted have taken place at Volvo dealer. Only the turbo service had to be conducted in a garage outside volvo (still proposed by Volvo) for approx 230euros. I spent another ~1000euros to replace hoses and for the work to uninstall and reinstall the turbo (see attached file with details). As so, i believe that fuel and air filters are also volvo genuine parts.

C)) How true you are. Eventhough I dont have to drive in the central part of the city, even in the suburbs sometimes the traffic is great with many start-stops.

Thanks again guys... I am still trying to find the "correct" technician to have a look at the PCV system and the compression of the engine.

I just hope @Gatos could help me on that

Part Number Part Description Quantity
977751 ΡΟΔΕΛΑ ΚΑΡΤΕΡ / GASKET 1
30612666 ΦΙΛΤΡΟ A/C / Particulate filter 1
30850831 ΦΙΛΤΡΟ ΑΕΡΟΣ / Filter insert 1
9437651 ΑΝΤΙΨΥΚΤΙΚΟ 4 ΛΙΤΡΑ / Coolant 4ltrs 1
30741424 ΛΑΔΙ ΥΔΡΑΥΛΙΚΟΥ / Power steering oil 2
31280772 ΒΑΛΒΟΛΙΝΗ / Transmission oil 1
1161703 ΣΥΝΘΕΤΙΚΟ 5W40 / OIL 5W40 5
947282 ΦΛΑΝΤΖΑ / Gasket 10
31251439 ΛΑΣΤΙΧΑΚΙ ΣΩΛΗΝΑ ΛΑΔΙΟΥ / Sealing ring 1
30819990 ΦΛΑΝΤΖΑ / Gasket 1
31251456 ΦΛΑΝΤΖΑ / Gasket 1
8642278 ΦΛΑΝΤΖΑ / Gasket 1
6079730 ΛΑΜΠΑ BULB 1
6090985 ΛΑΜΠΑΚΙ 12V 10W 2
6090983 ΛΑΜΠΑ ΦΛΑΣ 21W 1
3009344 ΛΑΜΠΑΚΙ ΚΑΛΟΡΙΦΕΡ FI UAV 1
30817997 ΦΙΛΤΡΟ ΒΕΝΖΙΝΗΣ / Filter insert 1
1271988 ΔΟΧΕΙΟ ΛΑΔΙΟΥ-ΔΙΑΧΩΡΙΣΤΗΣ / Oil trap 1
30617254 ΣΩΛΗΝΑΣ / Hose 1
30804963 ΔΟΧΕΙΟ. / Expansion tank 1
30822040 ΣΩΛΗΝΑΣ ΨΥΓΕΙΟΥ ΤΥΠΟΥ U / Radiator hose, upper 1
30899060 ΣΩΛΗΝΑΣ / Hose 1
8642277 ΦΛΑΝΤΖΑ / Gasket 1
1306023 ΚΑΘΑΡΙΣΤΙΚΑ ΦΡΕΝΩΝ 2
9146297 ΦΛΑΝΤΖΑ / Gasket 1
1275810 ΦΙΛΤΡΟ ΛΑΔΙΟΥ / Filter insert 1
ΤΟΥΡΜΠΟ / Turbo Service 1

Work Description
ΕΞΑΓΩΓΗ-ΤΟΠΟΘΕΤΗΣΗ TURBO / TURBO RE-INSTALLATION
ΑΝΤΙΚΑΤΑΣΤΑΣΗ ΔΙΑΧΩΡΙΣΤΗΣ ΛΑΔΙΟΥ / REPLACEMENT OF OIL TRAP
ΕΞΑΓΩΓΗ-ΤΟΠΟΘΕΤΗΣΗ INTERCOOLER / INTERCOOLER RE-INSTALLATION
ΚΑΘΑΡΙΣΜΟΣ ΨΥΓΕΙΟΥ ΝΕΡΟΥ / RADIATOR CLEANING
ΚΑΘΑΡΙΣΜΟΣ INTERCOOLER / INTERCOOLER CLEANING
ΑΝΤΙΚΑΤΑΣΤΑΣΗ ΥΓΡΑ ΦΡΕΝΩΝ / REPLACEMENT OF BRAKES LIQUID
ΑΝΤΙΚΑΤΑΣΤΑΣΗ ΛΑΔΙΑ Υ/Τα
ΕΛΕΓΧΟΣ VIDA / VIDA CHECK
ΚΑΘΑΡΙΣΜΟΣ ΠΕΤΑΛΟΥΔΑΣ / CLEANING OF Butterfly?

[Matt86]

It is odd. If it's been replaced then you shouldn't be having the oily spark plugs at all. Only thing I can possibly suggest is that the PCV is blocked again as replacing it didn't fix the problem causing the blockage. Might be worth replacing having the PCV cleared out and get the sump pan dropped and cleared out as well. Might be that there's a fair bit of sludge in the sump that's blocked up the PCV again. I could be wrong though.

[ElGreco]

Originally Posted by Matt86

It is odd. If it's been replaced then you shouldn't be having the oily spark plugs at all. Only thing I can possibly suggest is that the PCV is blocked again as replacing it didn't fix the problem causing the blockage. Might be worth replacing having the PCV cleared out and get the sump pan dropped and cleared out as well. Might be that there's a fair bit of sludge in the sump that's blocked up the PCV again. I could be wrong though.

Hm, if the items in the list above are what is needed to get the entire PCV system clean again (are they?), then unfortunately i must say that the oil consumption was only slightly improved when volvo did the pcv cleaning. I am not sure though, if there should be something else also cleaned, because i suppose if the cleaning job is not complete and thorough, then there will be no significant improvement and the pcv will get clogged again

On the other hand, there is no smoke coming out of the exhaust except from the cases when the engine stalls at idle and i restart it immediately and force the rpm to stay above idle (loooots of smoke and oiled sparkplugs) and the pcv clog test is positive, so it should be the pcv as you say ...xmmmm

Furthermore, eventhough the volvo garage technicians who checked my car are really good guys, i had at least 2 occasions when i just realized that volvo dealers just care to change things and dont go too deep into troubleshooting and efficiently solve the problems.

Case 1: For years i had issues with the idle and they said that it had to do with the high oil consumption, while i found the ICV cleaning solution in this forum which completely solved the problem (they did not really like the fact i asked them to do what was suggested in a forum, but it worked )

Case 2: I had my alternator serviced twice spending much money and time, only to find out that the clicking noise coming from it was due to Wheel Powersteer fluid dripping in the alternator due to faulty half euro tightener.

...and a few other examples just referring to my car.

Thats the reason, i need a good (volvo) technician in Athens to responsibly do the pcv cleaning job and a compresion check afterwards as gatos originally suggested yesterday and the rest of you guys also mentioned today.

[gatos]

I know it is not a very Greek thing to do, but you could slowly slowly start doing some work on your car. Not only you will save a fortune, but you will also gain a much better understanding of your car. Even when I go back home to Greece, my parents will not let me touch their cars, fearing that I am going to cause any damage.... lol. If anything goes wrong, they go straight to the mechanic.

Anyway, I am not from Athens, so I am afraid I don't really know of any good garages. Not sure if you have joined the Greek Volvo forum http://www.volvoclub.gr, but the guys there might know of a good garage, or might be willing to give you a hand.

My guess would also be the PCV as per my email to you yesterday, but now I see that you have change it already, I am not sure. Volvo mechanics should have been able to find the problem and sort it out. But I am afraid that as you said, all they seem to care about is to change parts without caring of whether it will solve the problem or not.

One thing you did mention, was that you got the MAF error code a few times. Next time your car stalls, stop on the side, unplug the MAF connector and then try to start and drive the car away. If it makes a big difference, then your MAF does either need cleaning with some Electrical contact cleaner, or it is faulty beyond repair. Also, for future reference, if you need any parts, have a look here. If people are not willing to post to Greece, then they can send it to me and I can post it to you afterwards if it helps.

Lets see what 960kg has to suggest.

[ElGreco]

Originally Posted by gatos

I know it is not a very Greek thing to do, but you could slowly slowly start doing some work on your car. Not only you will save a fortune, but you will also gain a much better understanding of your car. Even when I go back home to Greece, my parents will not let me touch their cars, fearing that I am going to cause any damage.... lol. If anything goes wrong, they go straight to the mechanic.

Anyway, I am not from Athens, so I am afraid I don't really know of any good garages. Not sure if you have joined the Greek Volvo forum http://www.volvoclub.gr, but the guys there might know of a good garage, or might be willing to give you a hand.

My guess would also be the PCV as per my email to you yesterday, but now I see that you have change it already, I am not sure. Volvo mechanics should have been able to find the problem and sort it out. But I am afraid that as you said, all they seem to care about is to change parts without caring of whether it will solve the problem or not.

One thing you did mention, was that you got the MAF error code a few times. Next time your car stalls, stop on the side, unplug the MAF connector and then try to start and drive the car away. If it makes a big difference, then your MAF does either need cleaning with some Electrical contact cleaner, or it is faulty beyond repair. Also, for future reference, if you need any parts, have a look here. If people are not willing to post to Greece, then they can send it to me and I can post it to you afterwards if it helps.

Lets see what 960kg has to suggest.

You are so right about the -not very efficient- greek mentality on such issues!
Still, I would really love to work on the car myself, but unfortunately i dont have the space and mainly the time to do so. It should be a very relaxing hobby for me to do, but my free time is virtually zero.

Regarding the greek volvo forum, i subscribed today and wait for acceptance email.

As far as the MAF Error code is concerned, this disappears when the engine works normally and as the volvo mechanics said, they cannot really identify if the source of the maf error is the oil or if the source of these problems is the maf ... so i will try what you said, still i dont use the car at all in order not to create a greater damage, so i dont know if i will have the opportunity to have an engine stall again and remove the maf. (i also have to find how to do that )

Thanks!

[ElGreco]

Extra Note that might be completely irrelevant to the high oil consumption and engine stalls with smoke i currently get after a few kilometers...

Its quite a few years now (approx. 2+) i ve had one engine stall every 6+ months while driving. NOT the same kind of stalls with the smoke and the engine light as i recently have, since I could immediately restart the engine and it worked smoothly. Volvo checked it back then and said that there is a constant error dictating the barometric sensor, but since the car had passed all tests no further actions where conducted.

[skyship007]

The 2 liters of oil in 3K km is a fairly awesome oil consumption and most of the normal causes seem to have been mentioned, so thinking about common serious oil burning issues, I would firstly be concerned about potential sludge blocking the oil pump intake screen and cooking up the cylinder head. Incorrect coolant flow would also raise the cylinder temps enough to result in serious oil burning.

So is there any sign of serious sludge, like a flicker of the low pressure oil warning light at hot idle just after a good high RPM run, oil turning black immediately after an oil & filter change, nasty view down oil fill cap or lumps in the old oil etc.

If the coolant condition is good and the operating temp correct with no gurgling sounds at idle, it's probably not coolant flow issues.

Once overheating is ruled out, I would be inclined to think the valve guide oil seals are not working too well. Switching from Castrol Magnatec to GTX 15/40 HM which has seal conditioners in it would help, BUT this is a bad case, so I would add a can of engine oil stop leak (Liqui Moly or Lubegard), but be careful about overfilling the oil level. Both of those companies certify their additives to minimum lubricity standards, so they won't effect engine wear.

The rings might also be in need of some cleaning, but that's not easy, as using an idle flush and switching to a serious oil like Shell Ultra 5/40 might cause a faster leak rate from the valve guides or any existing oil leaks. If it was my engine I would risk using an idle flush if it was not dripping oil, BUT add a can of stop leak afterwards, as the leak rate from the valve guide oil seals with go up. It will take a while (Few hundered km) for the oil seals to swell up, so the oil burning might get worse for a while after the flush.
That should help get the rings to seal better, but because of the stop start and idle time use, trying a direct feed injection cleaner to get rid of gum deposits is a real good idea, otherwise they will increase the Carbon forming in the cylinders.

For a car based and used in a big city, it is far better to base oil change intervals on engine hours not distance and some service lights can be set to do just that.
I would dump the oil every 100 hours of engine use time and change the oil filter every 200 hours. The Volvo service schedule is a joke if the engine is used like an inner city taxi and the more powerful the engine, the worse the problem. So a 200 hp T4 is not going to like life in Athens.
If you do your own servicing it might be worth buying oil in 20 liter containers.

Doing all those extra service tricks to get the rings, injectors and valve guide oil seals functioning correctly should cut the oil consumption, but dealing with the codes and ICV are also important. In terms of getting the Carbon out of the cylinders, high speed driving around Athens would be attempted suicide, so it's just a case of using lower gears every trip to try and burn out the cylinders, but do that more than 5 mins before shutdown or the turbo bearings won't like it.

One final thought, is that because of the inner city life and oil burning, the CAT might be blocked up. Normally that results in an error code or check engine light, BUT it might not for a T4. A blocked up CAT will cause trouble at idle, although I'm not sure to what extent it would increase the oil burning, as it depends on the turbo design and oil seals. Too much backpressure can force oil past them.
I don't think we have had a blocked CAT issue in the forum and I have only seen one case in a US petrol V6 engine and it caused a check engine light, but that block did not have a turbo.
The Carbon in a CAT can be burnt out with a good long motorway trip (Sunday morning job), BUT the ash from the oil can't be shifted so easily. If a CAT blocks from inner city use it will just be Carbon the first few time, but when it blocks with a real high mileage highway cruiser, it tends to be oil ash and that means a new CAT is required. Most just rust out after about 20 years plus.

[ElGreco]

This is quite some extensive troubleshooting guide and thank you for that. Unfortunately, i dont have the luxury to spend so much time/effort on this car and if i have to do all this, then its better for me to return to my initial plan of selling it.

Thanks for all this feedback!