Sump O-ring failure (pics included)

[Baffler]

Originally Posted by Baffler

I would say the difference in thickness is due to the rubber being permeated by oil over the years.

Scrap that notion. Those red O-rings seem to have shrunk ever so slightly with heat over the years. The new seals will, no doubt, provide a tighter fit.

Originally Posted by WernerT4

Oil pan o-rings (2black ones) seem to be exactly the same size aswell.

Yep, I was referring to the oil pan O-rings. In this picture they appear larger than the replacements in the bottom pic.




My apologies for any confusion

[Clan]

Don't forget to check the oil pick up pipe strainer , it would need a lot of suction to pull that seal in and the only way you get a lot of suction in that pipe is for there to be a restriction in the sump end .... Maybe the mesh is gummed up ....

[WernerT4]

Thanks Nick, I did check and all seem o.k. Im just worried about the crankseal now..Do u think I leave it like that for a while? So they say I should put the o-rings in the block and then the liquid gasket on the whole sump surface and only a thin layer they say..is this correct?

[Clan]

If the crank seal isnt dripping on the floor or seemingly wet at the bottom of the gearbox i wouldnt worry too much thats old oil congealed over the years .

stick the O rings on the block face in their grooves with vaseline or grease , the recommended way to apply the sealer is with a short haired paint roller about 4 inches long and one inch diameter ,the thinnest film you can do is the correct one . dont forget to clean off the old loctite from the sump flange and block surface and clean with brake cleaner or similar to de-grease ..

[WernerT4]

Nick, I will have to buy u a couple of beers for all this info ur giving me Thanks a million! Just another question, is it necessary to apply some of of sealent on the side of the sump aswell, the part which meets with the gearbox surface? We are going to start putting everything back this evening, still waiting for the oil cooler o-rings to arrive, hopefully they will be here by tomorrow.

[WernerT4]

Just a update. I finished the car last night so I left it to stand overnight for the liquid gasket to dry and set in. Filled it with oil this morning and gave it a run, engine seems much quieter, theres really a big difference in lifter noise and theres no more bubbles on the dipstick anymore aswell, gasket seems to be fine also, no leaks at this point. Cant believe that little o-ring made my car rattle so much, anyway, I just want to say BIG thanks to (Clan) Nick who gave me some very usefull information and advice, much appreciated.

[cam]

result mate,nice one,all best,cam.

[WernerT4]

Hi guys, guess what, the problem is back again, I didnt even drove 100 miles and there is bubbles on the dipstick again and the lifters are even louder than ever before, tapping the whole time when going through the gears in town..sounds like 300 year old tractor. Something is causing the bubbles in the oil and I dont know what to do anymore, may the o-ring have been sucked in again???or head gasket saying bye bye? This car hasnt even got 95 000 miles on. If I cant get this prob fixed its farewell Volvo T4 and Im going back to Vauxhalls.

[kilou]

Is your PCV system clogged? Check if you have a pressurized crankcase at the dipstick. I'm unsure if a clogged PCV system can dislodge o-rings in the sump but it may produce bubbles at the dipstick. Severly clogged PCV would even blow the dipstick out....

[WernerT4]

Thanks mate. I did check the pcv and its working fine, no blowing from the dipstick tube. Going to see a volvo technician today, if he says head gasket then I hope he has a box matches laying around.